Build thread Trek Madone SLR Disc and Campa SR mechanic

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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Calnago
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Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:14 pm

by Calnago

Yeah, I have the Hozan version. The key to these things is that they butt up against the stop that your working with, in this case it would the edge of the front derailleur arm, allowing you to control the tension smoothly then clamp it down. I’ve actually glued a little piece of Lizard Skin’s “carbon leather” to the edge of the tool that butts up against the component stop so as not to damage the finish of the component.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

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dgasmd
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Location: South Florida

by dgasmd

Calnago wrote:It’s just a tool that allows you to grab a cable, and tension it against its stop relatively easily and precisely, then keep it there while you tighten the bolt down with a wrench in your other hand. Most bicycle tool manufacturers make some variation of it.
That’s what I thought you were referring to. I have one, the Pedro’s version. Just never heard anyone call it that, so just curious.

by Weenie


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Calnago
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Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:14 pm

by Calnago

Comes from the expression “Shit!...insert a plethora of other obscenities here... I wish I had four hands to do this.” I suppose sometimes three would suffice, but generally it’s for situations when two is just not enough.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

ghisallo2003
Posts: 663
Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 7:10 pm

by ghisallo2003

I genuinely (and not an innuendo-filled joke) have trained my wife to be my front mech third hand tool. I get the tension just right by hand, and then she leans across and tightens the bolt. It has taken 25 years of training and she does the perfect job.

All my friends (at least those whose bikes I look after) benefit.

SchallUndRauch
Posts: 88
Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2018 6:58 pm
Location: East of West

by SchallUndRauch

So, the Madone SLR Disc frameset is up for sale: https://www.ebay.de/itm/NEW-TREK-MADONE ... 3151273822

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Alexbn921
Posts: 325
Joined: Wed Apr 10, 2019 6:39 pm

by Alexbn921

That is the frame and size I was looking for last month. Ended up with another frame or I would be buying that one. The red with giant white logo is hideous though.

SchallUndRauch
Posts: 88
Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2018 6:58 pm
Location: East of West

by SchallUndRauch

Thank you for your valuable esthetic assessment. It's Viper Red, the regular Trek Segafredo colour.

SchallUndRauch
Posts: 88
Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2018 6:58 pm
Location: East of West

by SchallUndRauch

I looked at the frame, and noticed this in the bb cutout:
40EC692C-AB15-4A05-95CC-4EE02825BF6D.jpeg
A bit disappointing at this price point.

SchallUndRauch
Posts: 88
Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2018 6:58 pm
Location: East of West

by SchallUndRauch

...but after sending it in, Trek says it's just cosmetic, so here we go!
IMG_2749.jpg
Immediately, I ran into a host of problems, from banal to profound:

1. My cycling stand's clamp was too wide to grab the seatpost, so I had to modify it.
2. I thought I had a 10mm tool for the Ultra Torque crank, but I don't, so have to order it first. I tightened the Hirth screw as far as I could, but not to 42-60Nm.
3. There are still open questions regarding fit and therefore stem length, so no assembly of the front end.
4. The Trek-Campa-BB-Set went in easily on the drive side and with tough love on the non-drive side. Now the crank spins with different friction in different positions... I presume, just as in Calnago's case, that the cut-out was not perfectly round. Or will it suddenly rotate freely once the crank is correctly tightened? :noidea:

Stitchking
Posts: 178
Joined: Fri May 25, 2018 7:30 am

by Stitchking

As you look to be going ahead with this build, can I ask if you have solved your inline barrel adjuster problem? My solution would be to sneak it just inside the base of the stem which would allow you to adjust tension by unbolting the front brake caliper and sliding the stem up off the steerer.

Hard to tell in the photo but I have just replaced the little steerer stop chip and i can confirm it would be accessable and you would still be able to shift in the stand..

Good luck with the build, looks like it will be an amazing bike.Image

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SchallUndRauch
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Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2018 6:58 pm
Location: East of West

by SchallUndRauch

Stitchking, that is certainly the best idea so far... I will give it a try, but not sure it will work because space inside the spacers is so restricted.

Stitchking
Posts: 178
Joined: Fri May 25, 2018 7:30 am

by Stitchking

SchallUndRauch wrote:Stitchking, that is certainly the best idea so far... I will give it a try, but not sure it will work because space inside the spacers is so restricted.
How many spacers are you running? If you have a few as long as you get a slim enough barell should be easier. I run no spacers and I reckon I'd be able to get away with it tucking into bottom of stem

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SchallUndRauch
Posts: 88
Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2018 6:58 pm
Location: East of West

by SchallUndRauch

All of them, for now.

I decided not to put an adjuster into the spacers or the stem, since its use would be quite restricted and it would be another point where two parts of housing could detach.

Speaking of which, the Campa Ultimate Smoothness (?) housing is simply too short for this frame. Two pieces would have to be joined in the stem area. Plus, the smootheness of the cable appears to depend on a layer of permanent lubricant. So I went with Jagwire instead.

Having said that - it is not going well. I had a frustrating day putting the stiff housings into the frame, arranging them around the benda and trying to make shifting work.

If one absolutely needs tweezers and could actually really use an endoscope to set up his bike - go and do something else.

I put Jagwire liner from the "Mechanical Control Centre" (aka Hell come real) to the respective exits, with the funnel end of the liner in the Control Centre. I made metal washers to shorten the distance from the caps that go into the Centre to the liner, and to prevent them from slipping out.

The fruit of my labors: Front derailleur works, but needs herculean force to shift. Definitely not the way it's supposed to be.
C983AA5A-CD92-4CF1-94AD-0E6BCA2E19A3.jpeg
F9CD4E14-D0F6-49D1-8A07-8347F35EB84E.jpeg
0555C74A-CF24-4B33-88BA-28E78F4465D5.jpeg
A87303B3-BD43-42C1-AAF4-3A0AD25EFA57.jpeg

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