Build thread Trek Madone SLR Disc and Campa SR mechanic

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
SchallUndRauch
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by SchallUndRauch

So I am building my dream bike. Trek Madone SLR because it combines aerodynamics with comfort. A bikefit resulted in size 62 and 120mm stem. I weigh 88kg, so not too obsessed about the built's final weight. Frame will be in a nice red color, with white decals. Should look quite nice with the SR markings.
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Not too common to combine a Madone with Campa, but I always dreamt of SR, and of the frame, so... Also, after reading Calnagos how-to of bb cup installation, I feel confident about that part.

But apparently when you buy a Campa Super Record 12x with disc brakes, you do not pay enough for a set of screws to fix the rear flatmount caliper.

Since my frame is still being produced, and I'd love to have everything together before it arrives, my question is: Could a Madone owner be so kind and do me the great favour of measuring the thickness of the left chainstay where the screws go through, as in the attached pic?
C1940ABB-C5BC-4DB2-BE08-1C4A6B4FF4A0.jpeg
I'd really appreciate it!

SchallUndRauch
Posts: 85
Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2018 6:58 pm
Location: East of West

by SchallUndRauch

Not many pics to post so far... As I wrote, I'm not too concerned about weight, but felt since this is WW, I'd better put the components on a scale ;-)
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by Weenie


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Calnago
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by Calnago

Ok, just as I’m about to ask if you’ve already got the SR mechanical I see you’re posting the pics. And you’re right, I have no issues with a Campy BB install on BB90. I actually think it’s less problematic than a Shimano install, simply because it’s so easy to get the preload wrong with Shimano, which is pretty critical to get right in BB90. But with Campy, it’s pretty impossible to get the preload wrong, and Trek supplies a nice little adaptor kit that will ensure the bearings are perfectly located within the shell.
However, personally I would not go mechanical drivetrain in this frame, regardless of brand. It will be a pain in the ass to maintain and adjust. I think I heard or read somewhere that Trek may state this frame is not compatible with Campy? Have you asked them about this. I think I know why they might state that, and it’s something I could get around if I really insisted on a mechanical install, but my reservations are far more general. There’s just a huge number of convoluted bends and routing scenarios that just don’t lend themselves well to a mechanical drivetrain. But if you get it all set up it will look awesome for sure against the red of the Trek.
But just so you’re aware, here’s where I see a bit of a potential problem with a Campy mech install vs a Shimano mech install. It’s in the fine adjustment of the front derailleur. That needs to be spot on, and is why the inline cable adjuster (a very nice one) comes into play. With the Trek, you’re going to have to rely on their inside the trap door adjuster. Now, on my own bikes I can pretty much nail the front derailleur adjustment without the use of the inline adjuster. But I would never think of not installing it on someone else’s bike. It really is required, and even the most competent of shop mechanics seem quite capable of messing things up, even with the adjuster. Anyway, will look forward to the build.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

SchallUndRauch
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Location: East of West

by SchallUndRauch

Thanks Calnago, helpful as always. Good point, and so obvious now that you mention it: Inline adjuster for the FD and totally internal routing are a problem when combined...!

SchallUndRauch
Posts: 85
Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2018 6:58 pm
Location: East of West

by SchallUndRauch

After studying the Trek Madone Assembly Manual, I doubt that putting an inline adjuster at the Control Centre in the downtube could work:
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Has anybody tried that? Asking because both derailleur cables and the rear break hose will be running through the Control Centre, and probably the tension of all three will make taking out the Control Centre something to avoid.

At the moment, I am thinking about putting an inline adjuster for the FD where the cable emters the handlebar, right behind the left hand shifter:
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Maybe this model would work:
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Calnago
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by Calnago

Doesn’t the Madone have it’s own inline adjuster there for mechanical installs? Maybe not anymore, since the newest Shimano stuff has relocated that adjustment to the derailleur itself. I have no problem setting up a Campy front derailleur without the inline adjuster and it is how all my bikes are set up but I’d never not put one in on someone else’s bike.
I would imagine fitting the inline adjuster in an extremely small tight bend area around the bars as you’re thinking of would be equally problematic from a functional standpoint. I can’t imagine there being any area where the cable would be exposed enough AND not in the middle of a horrific bend that would end up making the inline adjuster a real “sticking point”, both literally and figuratively.
And I can’t imagine a bulky hard inline adjuster anywhere near where you’d ever be wanting to put your hands. That would be so annoying.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

SchallUndRauch
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by SchallUndRauch

You are right, there was this here for the Madone 9er series:
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That's a nice integration of the adjuster into the frame! But unfortunately it would not fit the new SLR Control Centre slot (different shape) and in the SLR assembly manual, there is no mention of an SLR equivalent.
You may well be right that an inline adjuster on the hoods is sub-optimal. But not sure I can pull the FD cable in such a precise manner that it's set. So other than come up with some 3D-printed analogue to the 9er series solution, I will have to have you flown in, Calnago!

Mep
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by Mep

I didn't realize the SLR mechanical version did away with the inline adjuster. I'm actually in the opposite camp: I have a Madone 9 and wish I had a control center without the inline adjuster. I don't need it, it looks clunky and it's heavy. Getting the FD dialed in without an adjuster is actually not that hard.. takes a few attempts by pulling on the FD to various degrees before clamping the bolt.

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Calnago
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by Calnago

SchallUndRauch wrote:So other than come up with some 3D-printed analogue to the 9er series solution, I will have to have you flown in, Calnago!
Where do you live? Image
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

SchallUndRauch
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Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2018 6:58 pm
Location: East of West

by SchallUndRauch

Ahh, you're interested! Mexico City!

SchallUndRauch
Posts: 85
Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2018 6:58 pm
Location: East of West

by SchallUndRauch

Researching how an inline adjustment could be done for the front derailleur, I came across this bit of intriguing info in the technical passport of a similar bike, the Ridley Noah Fast Disc:

"In case of using a groupset without integrated cable adjuster at the front derailleur, a cable
stopper (FRPSTORID007) and inline adjuster (CABSTIJAG056) will have to be used to adjust the tension of the front derailleur cable. "

Try as I may, I could not find a picture of this inline adjuster. Has anybody seen it somewhere?

Guevarca
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Joined: Sun Dec 17, 2017 8:49 am

by Guevarca

Ridley use Jagwire cables on most of their builds, and this part code suggests it’s a Jagwire part too?

SchallUndRauch
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Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2018 6:58 pm
Location: East of West

by SchallUndRauch

Thanks man, great hint!

So I checked the Jagwire website, but did not find a piece that would offer itself in an obvious way as explanation.

I wrote to Ridley, hope they'll offer some more info.

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Calnago
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by Calnago

Those inline adjusters are simply nothing more than a different version of the Campagnolo inline adjuster you already should have with your groupset. And the Campy one is better. But the problem remains... where do you put it?
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

by Weenie


SchallUndRauch
Posts: 85
Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2018 6:58 pm
Location: East of West

by SchallUndRauch

Basically, only some bobbin that goes at one of two places could work:

- on the exit hole in the BB, where the FD cable comes out;
- on the cable itself, dividing it between BB and FD and looking functionally like this, just much smaller of course:
0F0BF622-FBAF-4C1C-8D33-8300F99A6340.jpeg
0F0BF622-FBAF-4C1C-8D33-8300F99A6340.jpeg (8.89 KiB) Viewed 1039 times

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