Groupset Upgrade Dilemma

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.

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by SilentDrone

iamraymond wrote:Here's a photo showing the difference of the two hoods:

Yes, the looks of the hydro-mechanical hoods is not great, but for me anyway the feel is superb. I like to grab them like bullhorns and they fit really well in my big hands.

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by Weenie

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by zappafile123

iamraymond wrote:
Sun Apr 14, 2019 9:44 pm
Here's a photo showing the difference of the two hoods:
Touche, that is a really good reason.
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by bilwit

photocycler wrote:
Sun Apr 14, 2019 10:02 pm
iamraymond wrote:
Sun Apr 14, 2019 9:44 pm
Here's a photo showing the difference of the two hoods:
Are those both ultegra?
It is the same between both Dura Ace 9120 hydro-mech & Dura Ace 9170 hydro-Di2. I went from 9100 hydro-mech to hydro-Di2 and it was definitely worth it to me. I think if you went with Di2 you wouldn't regret it in the slightest. Nothing wrong with mechanical shifting, but it's the small conveniences you get from Di2 which you really learn to appreciate (set & forget, not having to deal with barrel adjusters, replacing internal-routed cables, etc). The massive hoods for hydraulic-mechanical were a big negative for me.

TBH the absolute best value you could get is getting used (or take-off) 9070 Di2 derailleurs and 9170 hydraulic-Di2 shifters, though the biggest cog you could run with them is a 30T unless you replace the cage if you really need bigger

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by iamraymond

@photocylcer: yes those are both Ultegra. 8020 on the left and 8070 on the right.

In addition to the conveniences that bilwit mentioned:
-changing the pages on my headunit with the buttons on the hoods
-less force and movement required to shift. You can literally shift with your pinky finger.
-option to use remote shifters

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by fromtrektocolnago

Cemicar wrote:
Sun Apr 14, 2019 8:43 am
Shimano's mechanical hydro levers are monsters. ST-R8020 is 554 gram where ST-R8070 is 360 gram.

If you continue to ride on disc brake, I even think Di2 is worth $$$ simply because of replacing those horrendous hoods.
it's not a visual thing with me as a comfort thing. the monstrous hoods simply do not feel right to me. I'm attempting to get used to them
Colnago C-59 (Dura Ace)
Colnago C-64 disc(ultegra) with Bora 35 wheels

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by yinya

Do Dura Ace hoods for hydro - mech vs Di2 have the same size difference?

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by LeMomo

Yep, pretty much identical, only difference between 8000/9100 series is the materials used.


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by photocycler

So I assume the main difference between Dura-ace and Ultegra Di2 is weight? Unlike mechincal where shifting is also cripser with DA.

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by asiantrick

I would upgrade to Ultegra DI2. The mechanical 8020 Ultegra hoods just look horrendous. Then while you're at it, upgrade to Rotor crank and carbon ring. You're good 2 go!

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by TheRich

photocycler wrote:
Sun Apr 14, 2019 8:52 pm
I don’t but don’t think electronic would either.
You really can't judge electronic shifting by going from mechanical to electronic, it when you go back that you notice the difference.

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by Js2

I prefer a well tuned mech groupset, however electric groupset is the route to go if you want to set and forget. Just make sure you keep an eye on that battery level.

Modern carbon rims are pretty dang good, never had any issue with long, steep or technical descending. As long as you don't drag your brakes continuously you will be fine. If you want that extra margin of safety you can go with alloy clinchers or go disc brakes. I use disc brakes on my mountain bike only.

I would also stay away from super light quick releases, imo not a good place to compromise. :thumbup:

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by tabl10s

photocycler wrote:
Sun Apr 14, 2019 6:42 am
I have a 2019 Tarmac pro which I have already upgraded wheels to roval cl32 and also added ENVE aero bars and ENVE Stem. I was considering selling it and just buying a model with Di2 but now thinking of maybe upgrading more.

I do a lot of climbing so I am pretty weight conscious. So I am debating upgrading the mechanical Ultegra to possibly Di2. My fear is it’s going to be heavier so not sure Di2 is worth it?

The other option was to upgrade the cranks, derailleurs, rotors and cassette to dura ace and stay mechanical which would be the lightest dropping about 2-0 grams and also the cheapest option.

Would like to hear input from others.
All of my bikes have the same peripherals(cranks/bars/pedals/stem)aside from one. I don't worry about expenditure since it saves me from constantly trolling YouTube and sites like this until I get my stuff.
2015 Pinarello F8: 13.13lbs/5.915kg(w/Roval 64's).
2016 Rca: 11.07lbs/5.048kg.
2018 Rca.
2018 S-Works SL6 Ultralight: 12.03lbs.

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by robertbb

Js2 wrote:
Mon Apr 15, 2019 10:06 pm

I would also stay away from super light quick releases, imo not a good place to compromise. :thumbup:

If there is one part I simply will never f*ck around trying to get lighter, it is the part that attaches the wheels to my bicycle :lol:

Close second is the part of the bicycle I am holding on to... alloy handlebars only, always.

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by FIJIGabe

photocycler wrote:
Mon Apr 15, 2019 9:40 pm
So I assume the main difference between Dura-ace and Ultegra Di2 is weight? Unlike mechincal where shifting is also cripser with DA.
Yeah, the differences are really minimal. There is a difference in the materials used, but shifting quality is the same.

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