New KEO Blade Carbon Ceramic pedal

[wingguy]

You should never size up in order to get the correct width of shoe.......for one thing the cleat holes will be in the wrong place.

I’ll second the other guy, it’s totally legit to size up or down between brands. It’s not just that some shoes are wide or narrow, the size itself can be genuinely different between two companies. Width, length, height, everything. Blindly sticking to one number doesn’t actually make sense.

[corky]

This is why Sidi and Lake and others produce wide editions..... you shouldn’t get a longer shoe in Order to get the correct width .....you’re just asking for trouble,,,,,that’s all I’m saying.
Ask any bike fitter....not a shop salesman

[johnrho]

This is why Sidi and Lake and others produce wide editions..... you shouldn’t get a longer shoe in Order to get the correct width .....you’re just asking for trouble,,,,,that’s all I’m saying.
Ask any bike fitter....not a shop salesman

I did ask my bike fitter and they were fine with it - we’re not talking about moving 2+ sizes here. Also since the 4-hole has more range, the cleat is actually in the correct position.

Your argument of Sidi having wide models only apply to 3-hole models. There is no 4-hole wide model.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[corky]

Would you buy the wrong size bike.....and make it ‘fit’ ?

Your shoes are the most important bit of kit beside the bike......Ill fitting shoes will lead to all kinds of injuries even if they are minor niggling ones..

Check out BIKEFITJAMES on Instagram for a serious fitters view on shoe fitting......

[wingguy]

This is why Sidi and Lake and others produce wide editions..... you shouldn’t get a longer shoe in Order to get the correct width .....you’re just asking for trouble,,,,,that’s all I’m saying.
Ask any bike fitter....not a shop salesman

Ok, I’ll say this again and see if you cannot stay with me this time - a half size up in one shoe is not necessarily longer than the other shoe.

[corky]

This is why Sidi and Lake and others produce wide editions..... you shouldn’t get a longer shoe in Order to get the correct width .....you’re just asking for trouble,,,,,that’s all I’m saying.
Ask any bike fitter....not a shop salesman

Ok, I’ll say this again and see if you cannot stay with me this time - a half size up in one shoe is not necessarily longer than the other shoe.

No need to patronise.....if you just re read my ‘all i’m sayin’ Sentence again maybe you’d realise this does not conflict with what you’re saying........ jeez why does everything have to be a dumb argument?..... feel free to have the last word......I’m done

[wingguy]

No need to patronise.....if you just re read my ‘all i’m sayin’ Sentence again maybe you’d realise this does not conflict with what you’re saying........

Ok, so you do think it’s ok to change shoe sizes between brands? Good - it was just really difficult to get that from your other posts.

[speedyvelo1]

I am a long term Keo user and routinely replace pedals every 1-2 seasons as they wear out. I ride 16-20k km year and find the pedal body wears out at the contact points where the front and rear of the cleat contact the pedal body, the material used simply isn't durable enough. When I say wear out the cleat still remains captive in the pedal but it develops an uncomfortable amount of moment. In fairness this mainly happens on the left pedal which is the one I unclip from when in traffic or at stop sign.

Maquisard, your description is exactly my experience, after 20,000 miles or a little less (2 years) the pedals need to be replaced, the cleats barely hold. Also replacing the back plate may help for few extra months but it is never perfect because the front engagment is also gone. I use 12 NM blades, I assume that if you use 20 NM the wearing is even more pronounce. Of course the problem is mainly with my Right pedal which is the one I use the most for stop lights etc. This problem is related to the carbon material use in both pedal body and plate, so I assume similar problem should happen also with the Shimano pedal. The Campagnolo pedals have solve this issue using metal both in body and back retention, the problem is that I need look cleats system because in one bike I had the Garmin Vector 3 pedals and it is a PITA to have different pedal systems so part of the maintenance budget goes to a new pair of pedals every 1.5 to 2 years.
I have always got the TI version but now I will just get the CrMo which is only 30 gm heavier but half the price.

[maquisard]

Hi speedyvelo1, interesting to know it isn't just me.

I see you mention using Garmin Vector 3, how do you find the durability of the pedal at the points of wear we have both mentioned? I have been keen to try powermeter pedals but have been put off as I expect to experience the same durability issues that I do with Look Keo2Max and Blade pedals.

[573]

The issues I had with Look Keo carbon titanium pedals is they would never flip up making getting into your pedal PITA.

I find exactly the opposite now. I have Keo carbon/Ti blades on one bike and find that as they stay exactly in the same place they're the easiest to clip in to. Now the normal non-blade Keos on my othjer bike feel more difficult as they do flip up / rotate so you don't know exactly where they are.

[Jackofallgrades]

Has anyone done the J&L ti spindle swap on their Keo Blades? Looking at the cro-mo pair as the ceramic to pair are prohibitively expensive. I read previously you would need appropriate drifts to get the bearings off the old spindle and onto the new ones, is this still the case? It seems a more involved swap than other pedals?

[Nickldn]

Has anyone done the J&L ti spindle swap on their Keo Blades? Looking at the cro-mo pair as the ceramic to pair are prohibitively expensive. I read previously you would need appropriate drifts to get the bearings off the old spindle and onto the new ones, is this still the case? It seems a more involved swap than other pedals?

Yeah did this a year ago, used some sockets and a small hammer to drift the bearings on and off the spindles. Was quite easy once I got the correct socket size, not a lot of force needed.

I think there's a thread here about it.

The J&L spindles have been totally faultless and save a lot of weight for the money. Defo cheaper than buying the Look 'factory' titanium pedals.

[wheelsONfire]

Would you buy the wrong size bike.....and make it ‘fit’ ?

Your shoes are the most important bit of kit beside the bike......Ill fitting shoes will lead to all kinds of injuries even if they are minor niggling ones..

Check out BIKEFITJAMES on Instagram for a serious fitters view on shoe fitting......

The worst issue with shoes for me, is my big toe. If there's too little room (toe box), it soon hurts over large regions of the foot.
If i run wide shoes, my foot isn't suppported as i have long and narrow feets.
This that you mention is an issue for me with all footwear. I can really count on one hand all shoes that is fitting snugg and works for me.

[joejack951]

Would you buy the wrong size bike.....and make it ‘fit’ ?

Your shoes are the most important bit of kit beside the bike......Ill fitting shoes will lead to all kinds of injuries even if they are minor niggling ones..

I know this is an old post but as someone with wide feet who finds his shoe options limited I’ll respond.

I have 4E width feet. My wife calls them ‘Fred Flintstone feet’ because what they have in width they lack in length. If I stuck to only shoes that were the ‘right size’ my options would be so stupidly limited that I’d never bother shoe shopping. Instead, I just go up a half size and get the 2E width shoe and 95% of the time it works perfectly fine. Thousands of miles on the roads and trails on a bike or on my feet (I also run) say that the size discrepancy is a non-issue for me.

Might it be for someone else? Maybe, but they need to conclude that for themselves. ‘Custom’ isn’t for everyone whether due to price or lead time or aesthetics. I’d go there if I had no other options but I’m sure glad I didn’t just assume I had to before trying the next size up first.