Are We Getting A New Cannondale Supersix?

[Beancouter]

Maybe I missed this somewhere along this thread, but could someone confirm if Cannondale have discountinued rim brake option on Supersix for 2021? I was hoping to get a size 58 rim brake and build it up with lighter groupset/wheels/crankset/etc. but I can't find one anywhere and was wondering if it's a supply issue or if they can no longer be bought.

The last model they made was 2020; in the UK standard mod with either 105 or ultegra.

There is the odd one kicking around when i last looked. No more plans to sell them (I asked CSG at the time).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dnb72]

I'm in the process of upgrading my supersix from mechanical to di2 - first time I've done it. Any tips for the routing? I can't seem to get the wires through from the junction a through the headset, the end of the wire doesn't seem to fit but a hydraulic hose which is bigger does, so a bot puzzled as to why it's not. I'm also having trouble with routing to the rear derailleur but this might just be perserverance! I'm already using a routing tool if that helps.

[Discodan]

perserverance is the key, it's fiddly. I broke my routing tool and a Di2 cable doing the run to the RD as the holes at the pinch point about 100mm from the BB are very tight. I used a brake cable outer as a stiffer routing tool and taped the (second) Di2 cable to the back of it once it was through the pinch. From memory the run around the head-tube was tight but doable

[rides4beer]

Anyone else have issues getting the axle to thread properly with the Sigeyi direct mount hanger? Had to loosen it up and leave it loose so I could wiggle it to get the axle to thread in, is that right?

[ccparkhill]

I had to put in on loose, then tighten up the thru axle and then tighten up the hanger.

[rides4beer]

I had to put in on loose, then tighten up the thru axle and then tighten up the hanger.

Ok, just wanted to make sure it wasn't just me. lol Took it for a test ride and didn't have any issues. Looks great!!

[Dan Gerous]

I'm in the process of upgrading my supersix from mechanical to di2 - first time I've done it. Any tips for the routing? I can't seem to get the wires through from the junction a through the headset, the end of the wire doesn't seem to fit but a hydraulic hose which is bigger does, so a bot puzzled as to why it's not. I'm also having trouble with routing to the rear derailleur but this might just be perserverance! I'm already using a routing tool if that helps.

Just be patient. I built mine from a bare frame that had no feeder lines like new framesets have, I got lucky through the chainstay as it went first time without even using a routing tool.

Around the headtube was more tricky but some patience and wiggling made it happen. For the Di2 wires being so light and flexible, I found gravity and a bit of shaking helped it find its way, orient the frame so the direction you want the wire to go is downwards. Brake hoses are a bit thougher since they're much thicker and stiffer. For both, it can help if you have L-shaped hex wrench with a long long section and a short short section or a J-bend spoke and use that from the headset openings to push/pull the wire and/or hoses in the correct direction.

Another trick is to first route a piece of string, it's easier since it's smaller, lighter and more flexible, you can even use the vacuum trick to suck it out from where it should, then attach the end of the string to the wire and pull it out, gently and wiggling again where it's tight.

Funny thing, once I had everything routed on mine and the bike almost fully assembled, I was not 100% happy with the feeling of the steering as the brake hose seemed to restrict turning the bars freely, it pulled a bit, so I started over again with a different routing and different, simpler wiring so I wouldn't get anything affecting steering, thankfully I had not yet connected the brake hoses to the levers. As you can guess, the second time was pretty easy.

Anyone else have issues getting the axle to thread properly with the Sigeyi direct mount hanger? Had to loosen it up and leave it loose so I could wiggle it to get the axle to thread in, is that right?

Mine went on without any issue, as easy as the OEM hanger, just lighter and nicer.

[rides4beer]

Mine went on without any issue, as easy as the OEM hanger, just lighter and nicer.

Def much nicer, looks great! It was listed as black/grey, but is actually just grey, which matches the black/white/grey colorway nicely.

[kenz76]

I'm in the process of upgrading my supersix from mechanical to di2 - first time I've done it. Any tips for the routing? I can't seem to get the wires through from the junction a through the headset, the end of the wire doesn't seem to fit but a hydraulic hose which is bigger does, so a bot puzzled as to why it's not. I'm also having trouble with routing to the rear derailleur but this might just be perserverance! I'm already using a routing tool if that helps.

Just be patient. I built mine from a bare frame that had no feeder lines like new framesets have, I got lucky through the chainstay as it went first time without even using a routing tool.

Around the headtube was more tricky but some patience and wiggling made it happen. For the Di2 wires being so light and flexible, I found gravity and a bit of shaking helped it find its way, orient the frame so the direction you want the wire to go is downwards. Brake hoses are a bit thougher since they're much thicker and stiffer. For both, it can help if you have L-shaped hex wrench with a long long section and a short short section or a J-bend spoke and use that from the headset openings to push/pull the wire and/or hoses in the correct direction.

Another trick is to first route a piece of string, it's easier since it's smaller, lighter and more flexible, you can even use the vacuum trick to suck it out from where it should, then attach the end of the string to the wire and pull it out, gently and wiggling again where it's tight.

Funny thing, once I had everything routed on mine and the bike almost fully assembled, I was not 100% happy with the feeling of the steering as the brake hose seemed to restrict turning the bars freely, it pulled a bit, so I started over again with a different routing and different, simpler wiring so I wouldn't get anything affecting steering, thankfully I had not yet connected the brake hoses to the levers. As you can guess, the second time was pretty easy.

Anyone else have issues getting the axle to thread properly with the Sigeyi direct mount hanger? Had to loosen it up and leave it loose so I could wiggle it to get the axle to thread in, is that right?

Mine went on without any issue, as easy as the OEM hanger, just lighter and nicer.

Why not just get SRAM AXS and no routing necessary Or wait for Di2 12 speed.

[Hexsense]

Not all routing kit are created equal. The di2 connector head easily go through the headtube. But when connecting it with (parktool) routing kit, extending its unbendable length and diameter, it become a lot harder to route through the curve. I think Jagwire routing kit has smaller connector head.

Funny thing, once I had everything routed on mine and the bike almost fully assembled, I was not 100% happy with the feeling of the steering as the brake hose seemed to restrict turning the bars freely, it pulled a bit, so I started over again with a different routing and different, simpler wiring so I wouldn't get anything affecting steering, thankfully I had not yet connected the brake hoses to the levers. As you can guess, the second time was pretty easy.

I wonder, have you tried to replace the rear brake hose? Mine went the wrong way around the head tube for right front, left rear brake configuration. And it doesn't seems like I'd be able to reroute easily as the rear brake hose were fitted with some kind of foam liner that stick to the frame. So when I rebuilt mine up from 105 to Ultegra di2, I leave it as it is. But I kick myself everytime I see cable crossing under the stem because I didn't reroute brake hose around the headtube. So, I really wonder what other people do.

[dnb72]

Thanks for the tips guys - managed to get the the rear derailleur one done first time today - will take a shot at the headtube ones at the weekend - all seems to be working nicely so far though.

[Dan Gerous]

Not all routing kit are created equal. The di2 connector head easily go through the headtube. But when connecting it with (parktool) routing kit, extending its unbendable length and diameter, it become a lot harder to route through the curve. I think Jagwire routing kit has smaller connector head.

Funny thing, once I had everything routed on mine and the bike almost fully assembled, I was not 100% happy with the feeling of the steering as the brake hose seemed to restrict turning the bars freely, it pulled a bit, so I started over again with a different routing and different, simpler wiring so I wouldn't get anything affecting steering, thankfully I had not yet connected the brake hoses to the levers. As you can guess, the second time was pretty easy.

I wonder, have you tried to replace the rear brake hose? Mine went the wrong way around the head tube for right front, left rear brake configuration. And it doesn't seems like I'd be able to reroute easily as the rear brake hose were fitted with some kind of foam liner that stick to the frame. So when I rebuilt mine up from 105 to Ultegra di2, I leave it as it is. But I kick myself everytime I see cable crossing under the stem because I didn't reroute brake hose around the headtube. So, I really wonder what other people do.

Yeah, I have a Jagwire routing tool, it's cheaper and a bit basic but small and gets the job done.

I didn't have to replace a hose since I had a bare frameset to begin with, but that was the error that made me re-route it, I initally routed the rear brake hose on the wrong side of the headtube and it pushed on the front hose when turning. I did put some foam liner on the rear hose in the downtube section to make sure it wouldn't rattle, but it's not sticky so I could easily move it when I re-routed it. I think it's Jagwire liner. But it really doesn't move easily just from its stiffness and being tightly held by the BB guide and relatively tightly at the headtube between the outer wall of the frame and the vertical stripes that prevents hoses and wires contact with the steerer, so moving it needed some effort, it wasn't just loosely moving in there. I think I could have skipped the foam liner and it wouldn't have rattled anyway, but I prefered not taking that chance.

dnb72, the Di2 junction-A, or whatever the charging port is called fits very tightly in the downtube once the wires are plugged, the tube is not super deep so make sure the junction box is oriented with the charging port toward the BB and the button toward the headtube, otherwise the wires, even bent really sharply can bottom out inside the frame and not allow the little carbon plate that holds it to the frame to be bolted on completely, this might vary depending on frame size though.

[dnb72]

Not all routing kit are created equal. The di2 connector head easily go through the headtube. But when connecting it with (parktool) routing kit, extending its unbendable length and diameter, it become a lot harder to route through the curve. I think Jagwire routing kit has smaller connector head.

Funny thing, once I had everything routed on mine and the bike almost fully assembled, I was not 100% happy with the feeling of the steering as the brake hose seemed to restrict turning the bars freely, it pulled a bit, so I started over again with a different routing and different, simpler wiring so I wouldn't get anything affecting steering, thankfully I had not yet connected the brake hoses to the levers. As you can guess, the second time was pretty easy.

I wonder, have you tried to replace the rear brake hose? Mine went the wrong way around the head tube for right front, left rear brake configuration. And it doesn't seems like I'd be able to reroute easily as the rear brake hose were fitted with some kind of foam liner that stick to the frame. So when I rebuilt mine up from 105 to Ultegra di2, I leave it as it is. But I kick myself everytime I see cable crossing under the stem because I didn't reroute brake hose around the headtube. So, I really wonder what other people do.

Yeah, I have a Jagwire routing tool, it's cheaper and a bit basic but small and gets the job done.

I didn't have to replace a hose since I had a bare frameset to begin with, but that was the error that made me re-route it, I initally routed the rear brake hose on the wrong side of the headtube and it pushed on the front hose when turning. I did put some foam liner on the rear hose in the downtube section to make sure it wouldn't rattle, but it's not sticky so I could easily move it when I re-routed it. I think it's Jagwire liner. But it really doesn't move easily just from its stiffness and being tightly held by the BB guide and relatively tightly at the headtube between the outer wall of the frame and the vertical stripes that prevents hoses and wires contact with the steerer, so moving it needed some effort, it wasn't just loosely moving in there. I think I could have skipped the foam liner and it wouldn't have rattled anyway, but I prefered not taking that chance.

dnb72, the Di2 junction-A, or whatever the charging port is called fits very tightly in the downtube once the wires are plugged, the tube is not super deep so make sure the junction box is oriented with the charging port toward the BB and the button toward the headtube, otherwise the wires, even bent really sharply can bottom out inside the frame and not allow the little carbon plate that holds it to the frame to be bolted on completely, this might vary depending on frame size though.

Thanks for the tips, managed to get the rear derailleur cable through first time using a gear outer cable to find a clear path and just got the cable through the headtube using a gear outer to guide some string and then used that to pull the di2 cable through. The trick I think is being able to apply some force as it's a tight fit. Screwing down junction-a is next so hopefully that's straightforward and then onto sorting out the hoses

[Karvalo]

I was pissed after seeing this, it makes no sense at all.
The shop basically washed their hands off this and gave me the contacts of the Cycling Sports Group company which I wasn't able to get in touch yet, nobody picks up or answers my emails.

I have a question for you, do you know any way I can contact Cannondale directly? Or any other suggestions to try to solve this?

Thank you all.

Lord, I hope Cannondale take care of you at the corporate level. There's no way that damage was caused by an impact, or you'd see signs of paint distress at the impact site via widespread chipping etc. The paint damage in those pics comes from the substrate giving way. Pathetic that the shop just rolled over on this.

TBH given the location of the cracks in the same place on both sides of the top tube I'd assume it was damaged by being clamped by the TT in a workstand and then either just crushed or walked into. Surely it can't just be a carbon defect when the failure was evident before it was ever ridden? My bet would be on it being the shop's fault and almost certainly not a Cannondale problem, but since the issue wan't raised when the bike was received it's now going to be more of a fight to get them to accept that. The more pics you have of it damaged straight out of the box the better.

[req110]

Wow, TT workstands are crap!