Are We Getting A New Cannondale Supersix?

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
Rougesim
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Jan 31, 2020 5:45 pm

by Rougesim

hernejj wrote:
Wed Feb 26, 2020 9:56 am
Rougesim wrote:
Tue Feb 25, 2020 10:29 am
...
trying to plan the Di2 routing through the bar. has anyone used the y splitter cable to do this?
Also do you think that the shimano EW-WU111 would fit through any of the holes?
Any di2 pitfalls/hacks to look out for with routing would be much appreciated

Thanks
This depends on which kind of junction-A you are using. I installed Ultegra di2 in my SS Evo using the frame mounted one, EW-RS910F, that fits into the hole in the down tube. If you are doing the same thing then the EW-WU111 wireless addon can be installed in-line between juntion-A (EW-RS910F) and the wiring harness from the bars (EW-JC130). You'll need a small di2 cable (EW-SD50). So the connection diagram would look like this:

levers -> EC-JC130 wiring harness -> EW-WU111 Thingy -> EW-SD50 di-2 cable -> EW-RS910F Junction-A



Best of luck :) And don't forget to take your time and enjoy the process. :-D
Do you have the EW-WU111 located in the head tube or the bars? was keen to put it in the bars but as Dan Gerous mentioned- the bend might be too sharp.

Thanks to both of you for the responses.

Morritz
Posts: 22
Joined: Fri Feb 21, 2020 10:17 am

by Morritz

For those of you out there that purchased the Hi Mod SS, have any of you paid for the activation of the power meter?
I think I want to swap it all out and sell the power meter, but it seems a bit of a challenge when the added cost of the activation is then passed onto the buyer.... What is a reasonable re-sale on these do you think?

I'm thinking of selling as a complete chainset offer, with the Hollowgram Cranks (Si) and chainrings as a 'buy the crankset and get a free power meter'......... oh, i dont know..... it seems like this PM will be a redundant part??
Cannondale SS HM 2020

by Weenie


req110
Posts: 18
Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2018 10:23 am

by req110

I paid 499 for activation of P2M... Well it's good power meter.

Morritz
Posts: 22
Joined: Fri Feb 21, 2020 10:17 am

by Morritz

req110 wrote:
Fri Feb 28, 2020 10:46 am
I paid 499 for activation of P2M... Well it's good power meter.
They are very good, but £500 on top of the cost of the bike was quite a 'bitter pill to swallow' for me. I've ordered a Stages Hollowgram PM, and ordered the SL Spidering for a decent weight (and cost) saving. Enjoy!
Cannondale SS HM 2020

nbrandborg
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Feb 24, 2020 12:00 pm

by nbrandborg

Hi guys!
122 pages in and I was the next to purchase a SuperSix Evo HiMod. I got a really good deal on a Mechanical Dura Ace version in the beautiful Agave colour scheme. Everything good, except that I have always dreamt of my next bike having electronic gears and with the deal I got there is also a little room in the budget to upgrade! :shock:
I have now come to you for some expertise help, as I'm very conflicted what way to go. I could either go down the Ultegra Di2 road or the Sram Force road. I think Dura Ace Di2 is too pricey so I do not see this as an option.

Honestly I'm tilting towards Sram, but on the other hand I would really like to keep the Dura-Ace brakes. The reason for not being a huge fan of Ultegra Di2 is all the cabling work that needs to be done where Sram would be more plug'n'play in terms of installation, but ofc. if I shift to Sram I also have to change the braking system right as DA is not capatible with Sram levers?

Bear in mind is that the crankset is a Hollowgram SISL w.o. PM, so it of course has to be capatible with this as I would like to keep it if possible. But please share your thoughts on which way to go.

And if you should have some other obvious and easy weight saving tips/upgrades to spare please let me know! :thumbup:

req110
Posts: 18
Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2018 10:23 am

by req110

If you buy bike with Ultegra Di2, the switch to Dura Ace Di2 can be easy, as you can keep the cabling and junction and the bike, and just replace calipers, rotors, levers, rear and front mech.

floriansantana
Posts: 84
Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2014 8:57 pm

by floriansantana

nbrandborg wrote:
Sat Feb 29, 2020 7:38 am
Hi guys!
122 pages in and I was the next to purchase a SuperSix Evo HiMod. I got a really good deal on a Mechanical Dura Ace version in the beautiful Agave colour scheme. Everything good, except that I have always dreamt of my next bike having electronic gears and with the deal I got there is also a little room in the budget to upgrade! :shock:
I have now come to you for some expertise help, as I'm very conflicted what way to go. I could either go down the Ultegra Di2 road or the Sram Force road. I think Dura Ace Di2 is too pricey so I do not see this as an option.

Honestly I'm tilting towards Sram, but on the other hand I would really like to keep the Dura-Ace brakes. The reason for not being a huge fan of Ultegra Di2 is all the cabling work that needs to be done where Sram would be more plug'n'play in terms of installation, but ofc. if I shift to Sram I also have to change the braking system right as DA is not capatible with Sram levers?

Bear in mind is that the crankset is a Hollowgram SISL w.o. PM, so it of course has to be capatible with this as I would like to keep it if possible. But please share your thoughts on which way to go.

And if you should have some other obvious and easy weight saving tips/upgrades to spare please let me know! :thumbup:
Just a couple of thoughts:

If you switch to SRAM, then you need to switch brakes as well, because the connection of the brake hoses is different. So you need to remove the old brake hoses and put in the new SRAM ones. So there's no difference in the work to be done if you need to put in the new braking system or Di2 cables.

If you want to keep the SiSL2 crankset then you only (officially) compatible groupset is Ultegra Di2. Not sure if the narrower SRAM 12 speed chain will work with the 11 speed chainrings. There might be compatible 12 speed Rotor chainrings though.

I'd switch to Ultegra di2 because it's probably cheaper and lighter if you keep the SiSL2 cranks compared to a full SRAM Force AXS groupset.

floriansantana
Posts: 84
Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2014 8:57 pm

by floriansantana

req110 wrote:
Sat Feb 29, 2020 11:09 am
If you buy bike with Ultegra Di2, the switch to Dura Ace Di2 can be easy, as you can keep the cabling and junction and the bike, and just replace calipers, rotors, levers, rear and front mech.
He's not buying the Ultegra Di2 bike and wants to switch to Dura Ace Di2. He's buying the Dura Ace mechanical bike and wants to know if it's better to switch to SRAM Force AXS or Ultegra Di2.

nbrandborg
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Feb 24, 2020 12:00 pm

by nbrandborg

floriansantana wrote:
Sat Feb 29, 2020 11:22 am
nbrandborg wrote:
Sat Feb 29, 2020 7:38 am
Hi guys!
122 pages in and I was the next to purchase a SuperSix Evo HiMod. I got a really good deal on a Mechanical Dura Ace version in the beautiful Agave colour scheme. Everything good, except that I have always dreamt of my next bike having electronic gears and with the deal I got there is also a little room in the budget to upgrade! :shock:
I have now come to you for some expertise help, as I'm very conflicted what way to go. I could either go down the Ultegra Di2 road or the Sram Force road. I think Dura Ace Di2 is too pricey so I do not see this as an option.

Honestly I'm tilting towards Sram, but on the other hand I would really like to keep the Dura-Ace brakes. The reason for not being a huge fan of Ultegra Di2 is all the cabling work that needs to be done where Sram would be more plug'n'play in terms of installation, but ofc. if I shift to Sram I also have to change the braking system right as DA is not capatible with Sram levers?

Bear in mind is that the crankset is a Hollowgram SISL w.o. PM, so it of course has to be capatible with this as I would like to keep it if possible. But please share your thoughts on which way to go.

And if you should have some other obvious and easy weight saving tips/upgrades to spare please let me know! :thumbup:
Just a couple of thoughts:

If you switch to SRAM, then you need to switch brakes as well, because the connection of the brake hoses is different. So you need to remove the old brake hoses and put in the new SRAM ones. So there's no difference in the work to be done if you need to put in the new braking system or Di2 cables.

If you want to keep the SiSL2 crankset then you only (officially) compatible groupset is Ultegra Di2. Not sure if the narrower SRAM 12 speed chain will work with the 11 speed chainrings. There might be compatible 12 speed Rotor chainrings though.

I'd switch to Ultegra di2 because it's probably cheaper and lighter if you keep the SiSL2 cranks compared to a full SRAM Force AXS groupset.
It was exactly this kind of information I was looking for, thank you very much!
I have been looking into the Ultegra Di2 and it seems there is several "port-versions". Which one to choose? I would like to add the EW-WU111 to the setup, but I have no need for handlebar shifters, so two-ports will still do it right? Also I would prefer to have the EW-RS910 junction in the frame like the stock SuperSix Di2 model has, but the frame holder/cover, where can I purchase that? :noidea:

Such a shame that the SiSL2 crankset isn't compatible with Sram. If anyone has proven this wrong I would really like to hear about it.

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Dan Gerous
Posts: 1397
Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 6:28 pm

by Dan Gerous

Easier and cheaper to stay with Shimano. Your crankset will work, no need to buy a new freehub body, you can keep your current brake calipers. Installing Di2 wires is not that hard, obviously it takes more time than building a wireless setup but it's easy enough and a one time thing, I wouldn't let that be the deciding factor. And because Force AXS is quite heavy, Ultegra Di2 will probably end up making the bike lighter overall.

You need port version EW-RS910, it's sometimes sold as EW-RS910F (F for frame) or EW-RS910H (H for handlebar) but it's the same junction part that fits in the downtube's switchplate or for use in handlebar drops. The difference between build kits that are sold as EW-RS910F or EW-RS910H is the length of wires that come with it.

BTW, I have seen a few bikes with SRAM AXS but with non-AXS crankset, including one with a Hollowgram with SpideRing, it's said to work fine... in a workstand, no idea how good it works in real world riding conditions and if parts will wear out faster given the different chain roller diameter of AXS.

Image

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Dan Gerous
Posts: 1397
Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 6:28 pm

by Dan Gerous

I finally have a frameset. It's a standard mod. I usually prefer flashier paint jobs but, since in theory the frame + fork is 175gr heavier than a Hi-Mod, at least it's one of the lightest paint you can go with, and it does look good!

Image

I'm missing a few little bits to fully build it but, it's coming.

I did find an issue with the SuperSix Evo specific spacer for the Farsports F1 cockpit though. It works fine if you put it on top of one of the Evo spacers, it interlocks with it nicely, but if you want to only use it without any Cannondale spacers, there is no recess underneath to have it hide the headset bearing, and you need shims to have it sit against the split compression ring and preload the headset correctly. So it sits on top of the bearing without hiding it, it's really designed to transition from a spacer to the stem, not directly from the frame. A bit annoying but I'll see when I build it if I'm okay with a spacer (I wish Cannondale's smallest spacer was thinner than 7mm), it could be fine as the F1 is -10° and not -6° like my previous Evo. If that's too tall I might skip the Farsports spacer and only use the Cannondale finishing top spacer but it wouldn't look as nice and integrated...
Last edited by Dan Gerous on Sun Mar 01, 2020 5:05 am, edited 2 times in total.

m66
Posts: 44
Joined: Tue May 28, 2013 3:28 am

by m66

Dan Gerous wrote:
Sat Feb 29, 2020 11:09 pm
I did find an issue with the SuperSix Evo specific spacer for the Farsports F1 cockpit though. It works fine if you put it on top of one of the Evo spacers, it interlocks with it nicely, but if you want to only use it without any Cannondale spacers, there is no recess underneath to have it hide the headset bearing, and you need shims to have it sit against the split compression ring and preload the headset correctly. So it sits on top of the bearing without hiding it, it's really designed to transition from a spacer to the stem, not directly from the frame. A bit annoying but I'll see when I build it if I'm okay with a spacer (I wish Cannondale's smallest spacer was thinner than 7mm), it could be fine as the F1 is -10° and not -6° like my previous Evo. If that's too tall I might skip the Farsports spacer and only use the Cannondale finishing top spacer but it wouldn't look as nice and integrated...

Dan,

I'm assuming the last gen flat headset cover (KP253) won't work on this frameset?

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Dan Gerous
Posts: 1397
Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 6:28 pm

by Dan Gerous

m66 wrote:
Sun Mar 01, 2020 3:01 am
Dan,

I'm assuming the last gen flat headset cover (KP253) won't work on this frameset?
Actually you can, I just tried one. The top bearing is the same as past Evos and it appears to sit at a similar dept in the frame. As long as you are okay with leaving the routing gap open or use the plug that exist to close it.

Rougesim
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Jan 31, 2020 5:45 pm

by Rougesim

Dan Gerous wrote:
Sat Feb 29, 2020 11:09 pm
I finally have a frameset. It's a standard mod. I usually prefer flashier paint jobs but, since in theory the frame + fork is 175gr heavier than a Hi-Mod, at least it's one of the lightest paint you can go with, and it does look good!

Image

I'm missing a few little bits to fully build it but, it's coming.

I did find an issue with the SuperSix Evo specific spacer for the Farsports F1 cockpit though.

How did you get rid of the gold farsports decals? And what white decal did you put on top?
Cheers

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Dan Gerous
Posts: 1397
Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 6:28 pm

by Dan Gerous

Rougesim wrote:
Sun Mar 01, 2020 8:58 pm
How did you get rid of the gold farsports decals? And what white decal did you put on top?
Cheers
The decal is just some white, light grey reflective tape I had laying around. I was planning to cover all the gold with it as gold would not match anything on the bike. But I tried to scrape the gold off first to see if it was possible which it is... but it's very long.

I checked with the edge of a credit card first on the front line, near the hoods so if it didn't work, it would be hidden by the bar tape anyway. It worked but, very slowly, especially the top as it's flat. I used a small plastic scraper and went carefully. If I tried to go too fast, it scratched the black coat, a scraper made of too hard material or with a too sharp edge scratched the finish as well.

In the end, it was way too long so I abandonned and covered what was left with the reflective tape... I think it looks nice, matches the back of the KNØT seatpost quite well.

But...

If someone has not bought the F1 bars already, Farsports will soon offer another colorway. They were talking about grey, not sure if it will be dark or not.

by Weenie


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