Are We Getting A New Cannondale Supersix?

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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Dan Gerous
Posts: 1578
Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 6:28 pm

by Dan Gerous

Morritz wrote:
Mon Feb 24, 2020 3:18 pm
Hello!

I'm a new member here, purposely signing up to chip in to this particular thread after recently purchasing the Hi Mod Dura Ace mechanical SSE3. This thread has been absolutely amazing in answering so many of my queries I have about upgrading a few bits here and there, so firstly, let me just say a massive thanks for being so open with ideas etc.
I went with mechancial DA after fearing replacement costs on di2 and AXS upgrades (its my own fear, generated by experiences of derailleur damage during travel and careless parking at coffee stops) and am really keen to find out more about concealing the cables internally for mechanical users.

Here's a question though - and I think it has been covered ever-so-slightly here. Is the new Hollowgram SI crank arm on the new Cannondales any different to the older types, or is it simply a graphics thing? I'm swapping out the power meter (i can't bring myself to pay for the activation fee) for a Stages Hollowgram crank and need to buy a right crankarm (I need a 170mm) and will probably need to match the Stages crank with the older graphics.... am i missing anything by buying an older style? Thanks in advance. I look forward to seeing more quality builds here and also to hear more great tips/guidance.
Dan
They're the same cranksets, they just refreshed graphics. The new graphics are also trickling in onto the SpideRings as well, I received a 10 arms one recently with updated graphics.
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IMG_0170.jpg

Morritz
Posts: 28
Joined: Fri Feb 21, 2020 10:17 am

by Morritz

Thanks @DanGerous. Thats good, because I am struggling to get a new 170mm crank arm for the drive side and may have to mis-match the graphics if i can't find a second-hand crank arm in good condition. Thanks for posting the new chainring pic too. I have one of those on the way.
Last edited by Morritz on Mon Feb 24, 2020 5:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Cannondale SS HM 2020
@pistaboy

by Weenie


Mimmo89
Posts: 17
Joined: Sat Jul 20, 2019 12:09 pm

by Mimmo89


Dan Gerous wrote: They're the same cranksets, they just refreshed graphics. The new graphics are also trickling in onto the SpideRings as well, I received a 10 arms one recently with updated graphics.
I think I prefer the previous version..

Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk



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Dan Gerous
Posts: 1578
Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 6:28 pm

by Dan Gerous

Mimmo89 wrote:
Mon Feb 24, 2020 5:05 pm
Dan Gerous wrote: They're the same cranksets, they just refreshed graphics. The new graphics are also trickling in onto the SpideRings as well, I received a 10 arms one recently with updated graphics.
I think I prefer the previous version..
Personally I prefer the new look, simpler, cleaner, more modern.

andyJC
Posts: 51
Joined: Thu Jan 23, 2020 8:27 pm

by andyJC

Not a lot of room down there on mine either, but looks like it will be enough. Maybe 2mm
IMG_6695.jpg
IMG_6696.jpg
IMG_6698.jpg


hannawald wrote:
Sat Feb 22, 2020 9:58 pm
Hi Supersix owners,

I would like to ask you for urgent help, I have a serious problem with my brand new (size 56) Supersix.
DuraAce 160mm rotor on centerlock CarbonTi hub is rubbing my Supersix fork, they are touching each other.

I have just borrowed Knot64 front wheel from my friend to try Cannondale hub. There is no rubbing but the gap is really really small, may be 0,5mm.

How is it with your Supersix? Is it similar, do you also have such a small gap between edge of rotor and fork?
What hubs do you use?

Thank you so much!

hannawald
Posts: 807
Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2016 7:28 pm
Location: Czech Republic

by hannawald

Thank you all. I put the bike to my Cannondale shop. They will send it to distributor. Distributor has more bikes in stock now so they can compare if it is the hub or fork. But looks like it is the fork because even Cannondale hubs and DT350 hubs have minimal clearance, less than 0.5 mm so not 2mm as you have..

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Dan Gerous
Posts: 1578
Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 6:28 pm

by Dan Gerous

hannawald wrote:
Mon Feb 24, 2020 9:23 pm
Thank you all. I put the bike to my Cannondale shop. They will send it to distributor. Distributor has more bikes in stock now so they can compare if it is the hub or fork. But looks like it is the fork because even Cannondale hubs and DT350 hubs have minimal clearance, less than 0.5 mm so not 2mm as you have..
Hopefully it gets resolved quickly, spring is just around the corner... which reminds me, I should get going on mine! :mrgreen:

me248
Posts: 2
Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2020 2:16 pm

by me248

How is the availability in Europe/US at the moment?
I was trying to get the force etap (non HM) version in SE Asia but having no luck at all.
Local distributor, and those of neighbouring countries, say they can't get one and expect a new colourway in September.
The exclusive distributor model means I can't mail order one either (at least not without some help in a different country and then paying double duty). Needless to say am finding it rather disappointing and am looking at specialized now instead.

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Spinnekop
Posts: 201
Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2008 3:03 pm
Location: South Africa

by Spinnekop

Morritz wrote:
Mon Feb 24, 2020 3:18 pm
and will probably need to match the Stages crank with the older graphics.... am i missing anything by buying an older style? Thanks in advance. I look forward to seeing more quality builds here and also to hear more great tips/guidance.
Dan
The new Stages Cannondale crank arms have the new Cannondale logo design on them. Matches perfectly. :thumbup:
"In my experience, there is only one motivation, and that is DESIRE.
No reason or principle contain it or stand against it........"

Rougesim
Posts: 11
Joined: Fri Jan 31, 2020 5:45 pm

by Rougesim

FARSPORTS F1 Bar help...

I am waiting delivery of my Farsports F1 (400/110) bar and trying to plan the Di2 routing through the bar. has anyone used the y splitter cable to do this?
Also do you think that the shimano EW-WU111 would fit through any of the holes?
Any di2 pitfalls/hacks to look out for with routing would be much appreciated

Thanks

hannawald
Posts: 807
Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2016 7:28 pm
Location: Czech Republic

by hannawald

I would say ask Farsports, they are quite responsive again..

slashy
Posts: 70
Joined: Tue Nov 07, 2017 9:22 am

by slashy

andyJC wrote:
Mon Feb 24, 2020 8:46 pm
Not a lot of room down there on mine either, but looks like it will be enough. Maybe 2mm

IMG_6695.jpg

IMG_6696.jpg

IMG_6698.jpg





be careful stopping at Paul Smith stores, they might sue you for stealing their trademark colors ;-)

andyJC
Posts: 51
Joined: Thu Jan 23, 2020 8:27 pm

by andyJC

purely coincidental :mrgreen:
slashy wrote:
Tue Feb 25, 2020 1:38 pm

be careful stopping at Paul Smith stores, they might sue you for stealing their trademark colors ;-)

hernejj
Posts: 37
Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2019 6:27 pm

by hernejj

Rougesim wrote:
Tue Feb 25, 2020 10:29 am
...
trying to plan the Di2 routing through the bar. has anyone used the y splitter cable to do this?
Also do you think that the shimano EW-WU111 would fit through any of the holes?
Any di2 pitfalls/hacks to look out for with routing would be much appreciated

Thanks
This depends on which kind of junction-A you are using. I installed Ultegra di2 in my SS Evo using the frame mounted one, EW-RS910F, that fits into the hole in the down tube. If you are doing the same thing then the EW-WU111 wireless addon can be installed in-line between juntion-A (EW-RS910F) and the wiring harness from the bars (EW-JC130). You'll need a small di2 cable (EW-SD50). So the connection diagram would look like this:

levers -> EC-JC130 wiring harness -> EW-WU111 Thingy -> EW-SD50 di-2 cable -> EW-RS910F Junction-A

There were a few problems I ran into with my di2 setup.

#1. The cable ends, at first, appear to be too fat to route through the internal routing channels in the chainstays. Mine kept getting stuck no matter how many times I tried, I had to insert a boroscope into the chainstay via the bottom bracket area to see what was going on. Once I did that, lining up the di2 cable with the tiny little hole in the frame was fairly easy. NOTE: My boroscope was a cheaper sub-$30 model from Amazon, no need to spend a fortune. See this post for a picture and details:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=156359&p=1537698#p1537698

#2. No matter what I've tried, the di2 cable running from my seatpost battery keeps geting pinched between the seatpost and the holes where the seat tube meets the seat stays. See my post history for a number of posts on this topic. This is only a problem if you try to lower the seatpost such that the end of the post goes below the seat stays. I still have this issue and have not managed to "solve" it without removing the cranks and pulling all the extra wire out. Dan Gerous provided a possible solution that I have not yet tried:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=156359&p=1538123#p1538221

Other (hopefully) helpful tips...

Cheap source for carbon seat post:
https://www.cannondalespares.com/Cannon ... il/3-45337

Tip for getting the di2 wire through the steerer tube:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=156359&p=1537696#p1537696

Best of luck :) And don't forget to take your time and enjoy the process. :-D

User avatar
Dan Gerous
Posts: 1578
Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 6:28 pm

by Dan Gerous

Rougesim wrote:
Tue Feb 25, 2020 10:29 am
FARSPORTS F1 Bar help...

I am waiting delivery of my Farsports F1 (400/110) bar and trying to plan the Di2 routing through the bar. has anyone used the y splitter cable to do this?
Also do you think that the shimano EW-WU111 would fit through any of the holes?
Any di2 pitfalls/hacks to look out for with routing would be much appreciated

Thanks
The EW-WU111 doesn't fit through the routing holes of the F1. I plan to put it inside there as well, but routing the whole pre-connected cockpit wiring (EC-JC130 + EW-WU111 + one EW-SD50) through one drop of the bar.

I think this should work:
  • Run three strings or cables so the three exit one drop of the bars, other ends exit each holes so by the right shifter, left shifter and one hole above the headtube. I would identify both ends of the string that will go through the stem and in the frame.
  • Attach each strings to the end of their corresponding Di2 ends (that's why I would identify one, mostly important if you need a longer wire to reach the Junction A in the frame, so you want to pull the longer wire through the hole above the headtube).
  • Pull the three strings more or less together (gently, don't force it too hard, shake the bars a bit and/or tilt it if something seems stuck, hanging somewhere along the way) to pull the whole thing inside until the three other ends come out where they need to be. I would make sure to orient the EW-WU111 unit correctly just before it enters so the wires plugged into it don't get too twisted/bent sharply and pre-wrap it with something soft (a few layers of an old tube or something?) so it doesn't rattle inside.
.
.
EDIT: Just checked... given the size of the EW-WU111 unit and the sharpness of the F1's bend behind the hoods, my plan to pull it all the way to the stem with a EW-SD50 wire coming out of there might not work, it may need to be living in the drops... So doing it like hernejj might be easier, Y-thing from both shifters, small endcoming out under the stem into the wireless unit, then a wire to Junction A.

I also plan to have a bit of extra wire between Junction A and the stem and enough extra brake hose so I can easily take the stem off to travel and clean headset bearings.

by Weenie


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