Jip. Compared to the normal SRAM Red AXS with Quarq, it is 20g heavier.

Moderator: robbosmans
Jip. Compared to the normal SRAM Red AXS with Quarq, it is 20g heavier.
It's been seven months to the day since I got the SS [time flies etc]. It's taken me that long to pretty much complete the lightening process, there are a couple of small wins that could still be made, but after that I'd be looking at lighter wheels and groupset, which I don't think I'll do as it works fine.DaiD wrote: ↑Sat Jul 13, 2019 10:02 pmFair enough, totally get those views. I picked it up today, the non Hi-Mod version in 'BBQ Black'. 2 hour drive to pick it up, same back (plus a bit more cos some JCB driving git decided to drive on the main single carriageway into Bath).
Everyone has an opinion, I'm probably riddled with confirmation bias, so I'm going to do the few facts I've gotten today. It's a size 54:
- It weighs 8.23kg
- 544g of that comes from just the seatpost/saddle combo. Seatpost is alloy. Weight is split 50/50 between the two
- The stem is 117g
- The bar is 42cm c2c.
- Including the headset collar where the cables go in, it came with 60mm of spacers
- The cassette is 105, the rotors are not Ultegra
- The cranks are not the ones pictured in the display photos, they are Cannondale SI's, the Si bit displayed on the cranks.
My subjective stuff/confirmatory bollocks/just call it whatever you want:
- It looks minging with all those spacers, but I think will look slick when I slam it
- I've never had a Cannondale. But this is the first bike in 7 years that I got that awesome spark with from the first pedal stroke. I'm comparing that feeling to an Enigma Esprit I had. This feels faster. To me, that's utterly special. It feels so much better than an £8k Wilier Cento10 Air I sold last year after six months. Btw, I didn't pay £8k for it, I paid £3.6k. It was rim brake and 7.1kg.
- The paint is dull as chuff. I like where it's placed but that's it. I might take it to Colourburn Studio in Bristol UK, if it gets on my nerves enough to spend £400+ on a new paintjob. That's unlikely.
- After a 1.12 hour ride this evening, I love it. Feels like the right balance between my Felt F1 (sharp, very flickable, smooth) and a steel racer (riding on polished floorboards, communicative, corners on rails)
Jeez I've written quite a lot. Sorry. I'll summarise my own thoughts - first impressions, I'd buy it again in a heartbeat, but that could be because I've been riding my winter bike for the last three months and been itching to get back out on a nimble road bike. But I genuinely don't think so. Secondly, I've got a journey of lightening up the bugger, which I'm looking forward to. There's some very easy wins - I reckon a kilo could be had off it for around a grand.
Final thing re: the rim brake version- the dealer said the pros are using the non hi-mod frame, and that Cannondale didn't want to make a rim brake version but they had to for them!
Loving this forum btw, I'm quite new to it, but the like-mindedness I dig. Cheers
All the cables go through the bars, then the brake hoses go into the headtube, while the gear cables go externally either side of the headtube and into the downtube. I guess Di2 cables could be run alongside the brake hoses directly into the headtube.Jackofallgrades wrote: ↑Thu Feb 13, 2020 2:08 pmDaiD - I'm looking at switching my Save bars to the Zipp sl70s, how have you done the routing? Could you post some pics?
Yes that's what I was thinking I'd do as well, would be great to see how the setup looks on the bike if you have pics?
I just upgraded the 105 build with di2 Ultegra recently. Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but the side channel (of size 48 non hi-mod frame) to send cable from front of head tube to back of head tube is very narrow. My park tool internal cable routing kit's head is too large to feed through it. Even di2 connector is a hard fit. It's a pain 1 hour long struggle to diagnose, plan and feed hose and di2 cable through. I wish you the best to not needing to replace rear brake hose.Jackofallgrades wrote: ↑Thu Feb 13, 2020 6:23 pmYes that's what I was thinking I'd do as well, would be great to see how the setup looks on the bike if you have pics?
I would like to see pictures of the cockpit also. I would really like to see how much the cabling is seen from top when riding. The biggest think I like about the stock Knot stuff is the nice handling of the di2 and brake wires. I would like to use the Zipp aero handle bar and stem to save some weight but I'm I don't want to see lots of cable/wires...if it was just under the stem to the entry into the head tube not big deal...but the Zipp bar looks like the cabling comes out NOT under the stem and instead would be seen more. One piece systems like the Farsport don't interest me because I will travel occassionally and taking the bars off is would be a pain vs. the Knot or a zipp set up. Pictures from above and below would be great.Jackofallgrades wrote: ↑Thu Feb 13, 2020 6:23 pmYes that's what I was thinking I'd do as well, would be great to see how the setup looks on the bike if you have pics?
What I have got.
Consider the one piece bar/stems like the canyon clone that use a channel rather than routing fully internally. I went that way so I could still take the bars off for travelling; in normal use the cables are in the ducts and held in place by black duct tape that's invisible, the duct exits just above the hole in the head tube so the cable is only visible for 15mm.bet1216 wrote:I would like to see pictures of the cockpit also. I would really like to see how much the cabling is seen from top when riding. The biggest think I like about the stock Knot stuff is the nice handling of the di2 and brake wires. I would like to use the Zipp aero handle bar and stem to save some weight but I'm I don't want to see lots of cable/wires...if it was just under the stem to the entry into the head tube not big deal...but the Zipp bar looks like the cabling comes out NOT under the stem and instead would be seen more. One piece systems like the Farsport don't interest me because I will travel occassionally and taking the bars off is would be a pain vs. the Knot or a zipp set up. Pictures from above and below would be great.Jackofallgrades wrote: ↑Thu Feb 13, 2020 6:23 pmYes that's what I was thinking I'd do as well, would be great to see how the setup looks on the bike if you have pics?
Sry for noob question, how u mount Sram Force 22 on bb30a? Use some adapters?DaiD wrote: ↑Thu Feb 13, 2020 12:19 pmIt's been seven months to the day since I got the SS [time flies etc]. It's taken me that long to pretty much complete the lightening process, there are a couple of small wins that could still be made, but after that I'd be looking at lighter wheels and groupset, which I don't think I'll do as it works fine.DaiD wrote: ↑Sat Jul 13, 2019 10:02 pmFair enough, totally get those views. I picked it up today, the non Hi-Mod version in 'BBQ Black'. 2 hour drive to pick it up, same back (plus a bit more cos some JCB driving git decided to drive on the main single carriageway into Bath).
Everyone has an opinion, I'm probably riddled with confirmation bias, so I'm going to do the few facts I've gotten today. It's a size 54:
- It weighs 8.23kg
- 544g of that comes from just the seatpost/saddle combo. Seatpost is alloy. Weight is split 50/50 between the two
- The stem is 117g
- The bar is 42cm c2c.
- Including the headset collar where the cables go in, it came with 60mm of spacers
- The cassette is 105, the rotors are not Ultegra
- The cranks are not the ones pictured in the display photos, they are Cannondale SI's, the Si bit displayed on the cranks.
My subjective stuff/confirmatory bollocks/just call it whatever you want:
- It looks minging with all those spacers, but I think will look slick when I slam it
- I've never had a Cannondale. But this is the first bike in 7 years that I got that awesome spark with from the first pedal stroke. I'm comparing that feeling to an Enigma Esprit I had. This feels faster. To me, that's utterly special. It feels so much better than an £8k Wilier Cento10 Air I sold last year after six months. Btw, I didn't pay £8k for it, I paid £3.6k. It was rim brake and 7.1kg.
- The paint is dull as chuff. I like where it's placed but that's it. I might take it to Colourburn Studio in Bristol UK, if it gets on my nerves enough to spend £400+ on a new paintjob. That's unlikely.
- After a 1.12 hour ride this evening, I love it. Feels like the right balance between my Felt F1 (sharp, very flickable, smooth) and a steel racer (riding on polished floorboards, communicative, corners on rails)
Jeez I've written quite a lot. Sorry. I'll summarise my own thoughts - first impressions, I'd buy it again in a heartbeat, but that could be because I've been riding my winter bike for the last three months and been itching to get back out on a nimble road bike. But I genuinely don't think so. Secondly, I've got a journey of lightening up the bugger, which I'm looking forward to. There's some very easy wins - I reckon a kilo could be had off it for around a grand.
Final thing re: the rim brake version- the dealer said the pros are using the non hi-mod frame, and that Cannondale didn't want to make a rim brake version but they had to for them!
Loving this forum btw, I'm quite new to it, but the like-mindedness I dig. Cheers
Don't know if this will be useful for anyone, but here's a list of what I've done, and the pre/post weights:
- Bike: SS non Hi-Mod Ultegra mechanical disc in the dull black/grey colour [still is but small bling bits have brightened it up a bit]
- Starting weight: 8.23kg
Changes:
Slammed stem: I think it was 60g saved from all the spacers
Tyres and tubes: Stock to GP5000 with Conti light tubes [not supersonics, put one in and it blew on the first ride]. Can't remember weight saving but it was pretty hefty, at least 150g
Seat: Stock to Berk Lupina with cover: 165g saving
Seatpost: Stock to carbon 0 degree offset: 100g saving
Cockpit: Stock to Zipp SL stem and SL70 aerbars: no real difference here, as the stem is around 40g heavier than stock. Maybe 30-40g. Could definitely save another 50g here
Rotors: Stock [rubbish] to Dura-Ace 160mm: again, not massive savings, maybe 50g
Cassette: Stock 105 to 11-30 Dura-Ace: approx 80g
Crankset: Biggest weight saving - Stock [FSA] was 300g chainrings, 534g cranks + spindle/small parts, to Hollgram SI total at 606g = 228g saving. Only got these put on yesterday, so yet to go out but hoping for noticeable difference in stiffness/power transfer
Finishing weight: 7.34kg including all bolts etc. Not including pedals/cages/computer mounts
Previous bike was a rim-brake Felt F1 that came in at 6.7kg. The 664g difference is in wheels [it had Mavic Ksyrium SL Pro Exalith's at 1390g instead of the HG35's - I think they're around 1560g?], and the groupset [SRAM Force rim brake at about 2.1kg, versus Ultegra disc at around 2.6-2.7kg]. All makes sense to me.
Looks like a sub 6.8kg non hi-mod bike is therefore definitely achievable if you have the cash![]()