Are We Getting A New Cannondale Supersix?

[Spinnekop]

Damn that's light. i just found out that my Cannondale SI Crank paired with Power2max NG is heavy af.

Jip. Compared to the normal SRAM Red AXS with Quarq, it is 20g heavier.

[DaiD]

Fair enough, totally get those views. I picked it up today, the non Hi-Mod version in 'BBQ Black'. 2 hour drive to pick it up, same back (plus a bit more cos some JCB driving git decided to drive on the main single carriageway into Bath).

Everyone has an opinion, I'm probably riddled with confirmation bias, so I'm going to do the few facts I've gotten today. It's a size 54:

- It weighs 8.23kg
- 544g of that comes from just the seatpost/saddle combo. Seatpost is alloy. Weight is split 50/50 between the two
- The stem is 117g
- The bar is 42cm c2c.
- Including the headset collar where the cables go in, it came with 60mm of spacers
- The cassette is 105, the rotors are not Ultegra
- The cranks are not the ones pictured in the display photos, they are Cannondale SI's, the Si bit displayed on the cranks.

My subjective stuff/confirmatory bollocks/just call it whatever you want:

- It looks minging with all those spacers, but I think will look slick when I slam it
- I've never had a Cannondale. But this is the first bike in 7 years that I got that awesome spark with from the first pedal stroke. I'm comparing that feeling to an Enigma Esprit I had. This feels faster. To me, that's utterly special. It feels so much better than an £8k Wilier Cento10 Air I sold last year after six months. Btw, I didn't pay £8k for it, I paid £3.6k. It was rim brake and 7.1kg.
- The paint is dull as chuff. I like where it's placed but that's it. I might take it to Colourburn Studio in Bristol UK, if it gets on my nerves enough to spend £400+ on a new paintjob. That's unlikely.
- After a 1.12 hour ride this evening, I love it. Feels like the right balance between my Felt F1 (sharp, very flickable, smooth) and a steel racer (riding on polished floorboards, communicative, corners on rails)

Jeez I've written quite a lot. Sorry. I'll summarise my own thoughts - first impressions, I'd buy it again in a heartbeat, but that could be because I've been riding my winter bike for the last three months and been itching to get back out on a nimble road bike. But I genuinely don't think so. Secondly, I've got a journey of lightening up the bugger, which I'm looking forward to. There's some very easy wins - I reckon a kilo could be had off it for around a grand.

Final thing re: the rim brake version- the dealer said the pros are using the non hi-mod frame, and that Cannondale didn't want to make a rim brake version but they had to for them!

Loving this forum btw, I'm quite new to it, but the like-mindedness I dig . Cheers

It's been seven months to the day since I got the SS [time flies etc]. It's taken me that long to pretty much complete the lightening process, there are a couple of small wins that could still be made, but after that I'd be looking at lighter wheels and groupset, which I don't think I'll do as it works fine.

Don't know if this will be useful for anyone, but here's a list of what I've done, and the pre/post weights:

- Bike: SS non Hi-Mod Ultegra mechanical disc in the dull black/grey colour [still is but small bling bits have brightened it up a bit]
- Starting weight: 8.23kg

Changes:

Slammed stem: I think it was 60g saved from all the spacers
Tyres and tubes: Stock to GP5000 with Conti light tubes [not supersonics, put one in and it blew on the first ride]. Can't remember weight saving but it was pretty hefty, at least 150g
Seat: Stock to Berk Lupina with cover: 165g saving
Seatpost: Stock to carbon 0 degree offset: 100g saving
Cockpit: Stock to Zipp SL stem and SL70 aerbars: no real difference here, as the stem is around 40g heavier than stock. Maybe 30-40g. Could definitely save another 50g here
Rotors: Stock [rubbish] to Dura-Ace 160mm: again, not massive savings, maybe 50g
Cassette: Stock 105 to 11-30 Dura-Ace: approx 80g
Crankset: Biggest weight saving - Stock [FSA] was 300g chainrings, 534g cranks + spindle/small parts, to Hollgram SI total at 606g = 228g saving. Only got these put on yesterday, so yet to go out but hoping for noticeable difference in stiffness/power transfer

Finishing weight: 7.34kg including all bolts etc. Not including pedals/cages/computer mounts

Previous bike was a rim-brake Felt F1 that came in at 6.7kg. The 664g difference is in wheels [it had Mavic Ksyrium SL Pro Exalith's at 1390g instead of the HG35's - I think they're around 1560g?], and the groupset [SRAM Force rim brake at about 2.1kg, versus Ultegra disc at around 2.6-2.7kg]. All makes sense to me.

Looks like a sub 6.8kg non hi-mod bike is therefore definitely achievable if you have the cash

[Jackofallgrades]

DaiD - I'm looking at switching my Save bars to the Zipp sl70s, how have you done the routing? Could you post some pics?

[DaiD]

DaiD - I'm looking at switching my Save bars to the Zipp sl70s, how have you done the routing? Could you post some pics?

All the cables go through the bars, then the brake hoses go into the headtube, while the gear cables go externally either side of the headtube and into the downtube. I guess Di2 cables could be run alongside the brake hoses directly into the headtube.

[Jackofallgrades]

All the cables go through the bars, then the brake hoses go into the headtube, while the gear cables go externally either side of the headtube and into the downtube. I guess Di2 cables could be run alongside the brake hoses directly into the headtube.

Yes that's what I was thinking I'd do as well, would be great to see how the setup looks on the bike if you have pics?

[Hexsense]

All the cables go through the bars, then the brake hoses go into the headtube, while the gear cables go externally either side of the headtube and into the downtube. I guess Di2 cables could be run alongside the brake hoses directly into the headtube.

Yes that's what I was thinking I'd do as well, would be great to see how the setup looks on the bike if you have pics?

I just upgraded the 105 build with di2 Ultegra recently. Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but the side channel (of size 48 non hi-mod frame) to send cable from front of head tube to back of head tube is very narrow. My park tool internal cable routing kit's head is too large to feed through it. Even di2 connector is a hard fit. It's a pain 1 hour long struggle to diagnose, plan and feed hose and di2 cable through. I wish you the best to not needing to replace rear brake hose.

[bet1216]

All the cables go through the bars, then the brake hoses go into the headtube, while the gear cables go externally either side of the headtube and into the downtube. I guess Di2 cables could be run alongside the brake hoses directly into the headtube.

Yes that's what I was thinking I'd do as well, would be great to see how the setup looks on the bike if you have pics?

I would like to see pictures of the cockpit also. I would really like to see how much the cabling is seen from top when riding. The biggest think I like about the stock Knot stuff is the nice handling of the di2 and brake wires. I would like to use the Zipp aero handle bar and stem to save some weight but I'm I don't want to see lots of cable/wires...if it was just under the stem to the entry into the head tube not big deal...but the Zipp bar looks like the cabling comes out NOT under the stem and instead would be seen more. One piece systems like the Farsport don't interest me because I will travel occassionally and taking the bars off is would be a pain vs. the Knot or a zipp set up. Pictures from above and below would be great.

[Spinnekop]

I would like to see pictures of the cockpit also. I would really like to see how much the cabling is seen from top when riding.

What I have got.
Left cable still a bit sloppy as the bike shop built it a bit short. Will sort it out later.

[Discodan]

All the cables go through the bars, then the brake hoses go into the headtube, while the gear cables go externally either side of the headtube and into the downtube. I guess Di2 cables could be run alongside the brake hoses directly into the headtube.

Yes that's what I was thinking I'd do as well, would be great to see how the setup looks on the bike if you have pics?

I would like to see pictures of the cockpit also. I would really like to see how much the cabling is seen from top when riding. The biggest think I like about the stock Knot stuff is the nice handling of the di2 and brake wires. I would like to use the Zipp aero handle bar and stem to save some weight but I'm I don't want to see lots of cable/wires...if it was just under the stem to the entry into the head tube not big deal...but the Zipp bar looks like the cabling comes out NOT under the stem and instead would be seen more. One piece systems like the Farsport don't interest me because I will travel occassionally and taking the bars off is would be a pain vs. the Knot or a zipp set up. Pictures from above and below would be great.

Consider the one piece bar/stems like the canyon clone that use a channel rather than routing fully internally. I went that way so I could still take the bars off for travelling; in normal use the cables are in the ducts and held in place by black duct tape that's invisible, the duct exits just above the hole in the head tube so the cable is only visible for 15mm.

To take the bars off for a bike box I just remove the tape and the garmin mount and I have about 25cm of exposed cables which let's me move the bars around a lot

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

[DaiD]

I'm not too worried about how clean the front end looks, tbh, but understand the appeal! Photos below - I had a mechanic do it, as I don't have the skillz

[perrierperrier]

I posted this over in the introductory thread, but figured you guys will care to see it here too.

It's not brand new, got this bike in July right when it was released. It's been fantastic and I wouldn't change anything about it. Not a superlight build, but built how I like it. Had to ditch the KNOT bar/stem right away to get the position/stiffness I wanted. The brake lines and Di2 wiring still looks pretty slick ticked under the steam and into the frame. Weighs in around 7.3kg, and no, I'm not meticulous enough to have weighed every component.

Frame/Fork: Cannondale Supersix Evo HiMod 56cm
Seatpost: Cannondale SL KNOT
Seat: PRO Stealth Superlight
Stem: Zipp SL Sprint 140mm
Bar: Zipp Service Course SL 88 400mm c-c
Bartape: Silca Nastro Piloti
Bottle cages: Arundel Mandible Uni Weave Matte
Brakes: Shimano Dura-Ace Br-R9170 w. 160 front/140 rear SM-RT900 rotors
Front derailleur: Dura-Ace Di2 FD-R9150
Rear derailleur: Dura-Ace Di2 RD-R9150
Crankset: HollowGram SiSL2 w/ pre-installed power2max NG Eco Power Meter BB30a
Chainrings: Vision/FSA 52/36
Chain: Ultegra CN-HG701
Shifters: Dura-Ace Di2 ST-R9170
Cassette: Dura-Ace CS-R9100 11-30t
Wheels: DT Swiss ERC 1400 DSpline 47mm
Tires: Vittoria Corsa Graphene Clinchers 25mm
Pedals: Dura-Ace PD-R9000
Others: Di2 D-Fly EW-WU111, K-Edge XL Wahoo Mount

[bespoke]

Looks great
We have done a lot of these bikes recently; I have to say they have really grown on me....so much so that I am planning on building up one myself.

[Jimmyrn85]

Good timing from the above user!
Here is one his company has built for me...

Approx 6.7kg atm with Dura-Ace SPD-SL's to go on, and bar tape.
There is bound to be some frowns with the Campag wheels and Shimano groupset.. I think it looks fantastic!

[Hexsense]

I apologize for bad lighting phone camera image. WIll take some better photos later.

7.4kg size 48 Cannondale SS Evo non-hi-mod. Somehow, size 48 is the lightest size. Size 44 weight more.
Currently setting the position a bit more relax than my Allez Sprint (5mm higher bar, 10mm shorter stem). I want to enjoy its comfort at this point.

-Built mostly with Ultegra di2 (except rotors which are Dura-ace, FD which is old gen Dura-ace, and cassette which is Sram 11-26).
-Carbon seatpost, Pro Aerofuel saddle (not light)
-Specialized Aerofly II bar (250g) and Bontrager Blendr Pro stem (heavy 150g stem)
-Sprint shifters (SW-R9150) installed in bar drop.
-Rotor Aldhu + Power2max NGeco + Ultegra chainrings. This is a heavy crankset. Around 300g can be saved here by switching to Sram Red BB30 (with integrated spider).
-Dura-ace pedals (this is actually where the power meter should be, Favero Assioma Duo weight only 60g more for the pair).
-ESI silicone bar tape, again this is dense, thick and heavy bar tape. About 100g can be saved switching to thinner tape.
-Light-bicycle 56mm deep 30mm wide clincher + Latex tube + Continental GP5000 25c front and 28c rear.
-weight include bottle cages, computer mount and camera/light mount.


Based on my build I think if anyone want to dip below 6.8kg you can do so by...
-switch crank (save 300g)
-Dura-ace instead of ultegra (save ??grams)
-Integrated bar stem (save ~70g ?)
-frame to Hi-mod version (save 160g)
-switch bar tape (save 100g)
-lighter wheelset and tires.
-lighter saddle and pedals?

[PUNlSHER]

Fair enough, totally get those views. I picked it up today, the non Hi-Mod version in 'BBQ Black'. 2 hour drive to pick it up, same back (plus a bit more cos some JCB driving git decided to drive on the main single carriageway into Bath).

Everyone has an opinion, I'm probably riddled with confirmation bias, so I'm going to do the few facts I've gotten today. It's a size 54:

- It weighs 8.23kg
- 544g of that comes from just the seatpost/saddle combo. Seatpost is alloy. Weight is split 50/50 between the two
- The stem is 117g
- The bar is 42cm c2c.
- Including the headset collar where the cables go in, it came with 60mm of spacers
- The cassette is 105, the rotors are not Ultegra
- The cranks are not the ones pictured in the display photos, they are Cannondale SI's, the Si bit displayed on the cranks.

My subjective stuff/confirmatory bollocks/just call it whatever you want:

- It looks minging with all those spacers, but I think will look slick when I slam it
- I've never had a Cannondale. But this is the first bike in 7 years that I got that awesome spark with from the first pedal stroke. I'm comparing that feeling to an Enigma Esprit I had. This feels faster. To me, that's utterly special. It feels so much better than an £8k Wilier Cento10 Air I sold last year after six months. Btw, I didn't pay £8k for it, I paid £3.6k. It was rim brake and 7.1kg.
- The paint is dull as chuff. I like where it's placed but that's it. I might take it to Colourburn Studio in Bristol UK, if it gets on my nerves enough to spend £400+ on a new paintjob. That's unlikely.
- After a 1.12 hour ride this evening, I love it. Feels like the right balance between my Felt F1 (sharp, very flickable, smooth) and a steel racer (riding on polished floorboards, communicative, corners on rails)

Jeez I've written quite a lot. Sorry. I'll summarise my own thoughts - first impressions, I'd buy it again in a heartbeat, but that could be because I've been riding my winter bike for the last three months and been itching to get back out on a nimble road bike. But I genuinely don't think so. Secondly, I've got a journey of lightening up the bugger, which I'm looking forward to. There's some very easy wins - I reckon a kilo could be had off it for around a grand.

Final thing re: the rim brake version- the dealer said the pros are using the non hi-mod frame, and that Cannondale didn't want to make a rim brake version but they had to for them!

Loving this forum btw, I'm quite new to it, but the like-mindedness I dig . Cheers

It's been seven months to the day since I got the SS [time flies etc]. It's taken me that long to pretty much complete the lightening process, there are a couple of small wins that could still be made, but after that I'd be looking at lighter wheels and groupset, which I don't think I'll do as it works fine.

Don't know if this will be useful for anyone, but here's a list of what I've done, and the pre/post weights:

- Bike: SS non Hi-Mod Ultegra mechanical disc in the dull black/grey colour [still is but small bling bits have brightened it up a bit]
- Starting weight: 8.23kg

Changes:

Slammed stem: I think it was 60g saved from all the spacers
Tyres and tubes: Stock to GP5000 with Conti light tubes [not supersonics, put one in and it blew on the first ride]. Can't remember weight saving but it was pretty hefty, at least 150g
Seat: Stock to Berk Lupina with cover: 165g saving
Seatpost: Stock to carbon 0 degree offset: 100g saving
Cockpit: Stock to Zipp SL stem and SL70 aerbars: no real difference here, as the stem is around 40g heavier than stock. Maybe 30-40g. Could definitely save another 50g here
Rotors: Stock [rubbish] to Dura-Ace 160mm: again, not massive savings, maybe 50g
Cassette: Stock 105 to 11-30 Dura-Ace: approx 80g
Crankset: Biggest weight saving - Stock [FSA] was 300g chainrings, 534g cranks + spindle/small parts, to Hollgram SI total at 606g = 228g saving. Only got these put on yesterday, so yet to go out but hoping for noticeable difference in stiffness/power transfer

Finishing weight: 7.34kg including all bolts etc. Not including pedals/cages/computer mounts

Previous bike was a rim-brake Felt F1 that came in at 6.7kg. The 664g difference is in wheels [it had Mavic Ksyrium SL Pro Exalith's at 1390g instead of the HG35's - I think they're around 1560g?], and the groupset [SRAM Force rim brake at about 2.1kg, versus Ultegra disc at around 2.6-2.7kg]. All makes sense to me.

Looks like a sub 6.8kg non hi-mod bike is therefore definitely achievable if you have the cash

Sry for noob question, how u mount Sram Force 22 on bb30a? Use some adapters?
ps. I hate FSA chainrings & Sl arms, want change stock 105 groupset to Force 22 in future..