Are We Getting A New Cannondale Supersix?

[dnb72]

Thanks for the comment! Yes the drive side has the 2.5mm spacer and then the bearing shield. The wave washer is slightly pressed but I have the feeling that it needs more compression. The only way is adding an extra shim I guess, but there are already 3 shims in between... Thanks again!

The only other thing I can think of is that it's not torque'd up enough - when I've taken my crank off and put it back on I've had had that kind of play if it's not fully pressed on and torqued but as with the driveside probably unlikely. I think as you say adding an extra shim or 2 will fix it.

[TDA]

Thanks for the comment! Yes the drive side has the 2.5mm spacer and then the bearing shield. The wave washer is slightly pressed but I have the feeling that it needs more compression. The only way is adding an extra shim I guess, but there are already 3 shims in between... Thanks again!

The only other thing I can think of is that it's not torque'd up enough - when I've taken my crank off and put it back on I've had had that kind of play if it's not fully pressed on and torqued but as with the driveside probably unlikely. I think as you say adding an extra shim or 2 will fix it.

Thanks again, I'll check everythign again later today and see if the 2 shims will fix it. Also re-check the torgue with another torque wrench.

[ccparkhill]

Highly unlikely but perhaps check that the spindle is 109mm and the BB shell is 73mm. Possibly some grit in one of the arms stopping in fully engaging with the spindle. Other than that bolts not being torqued enough as previously stated.

[TDA]

Highly unlikely but perhaps check that the spindle is 109mm and the BB shell is 73mm. Possibly some grit in one of the arms stopping in fully engaging with the spindle. Other than that bolts not being torqued enough as previously stated.

Thanks for the comment, it's indeed a 109mm. Good point about the grit, I'll check that as well!

[Spinnekop]

Thanks for the comment! Yes the drive side has the 2.5mm spacer and then the bearing shield. The wave washer is slightly pressed but I have the feeling that it needs more compression. The only way is adding an extra shim I guess, but there are already 3 shims in between... Thanks again!

Measure the bunch of shims you have on there plus the one that you are going to add.
Then find the spacer kit and just add the correct mm spacer on the non drive side.
https://www.cannondalespares.com/Cannon ... il/3-42959

[TDA]

Thanks for all comments. I added another 0.5mm shim and it's much better. There is still some very small movement when I push the non-drive side crank in horizontal direction. If I add another shim it's gone and there isn't any movement possible. I doubt what to do now, I don't see the added value from the wave washer if I add another shim. The instruction letter says: "Tighten the fixing bolt to 40Nm and check to see if wave washer is properly preloaded (STILL HAS SLIGHT WAVE AND NOT LOOSE)". If I add another shim there isn't any "wave" aymore, so I guess it's normal that this system has a little movement in horizontal direction.

[Dan Gerous]

With radial bearings (most BB30 bearings are), you don't want to completely compress the wave washer. These bearings, by design, are not meant to handle too much side load. If the wave washer is fully flattened, it's too much and may reduce the bearing's life. But in my experience, with just a slight compresssion of the wave washer, there shouldn't be side to side movement in the crankset... Was there any play in the bearings themselves?

[spud]

With radial bearings (most BB30 bearings are), you don't want to completely compress the wave washer. These bearings, by design, are not meant to handle too much side load. If the wave washer is fully flattened, it's too much and may reduce the bearing's life. But in my experience, with just a slight compresssion of the wave washer, there shouldn't be side to side movement in the crankset... Was there any play in the bearings themselves?

My cannondale is quite old, so my experience may not be relevant. But my BB30 spindle is interference fit with the bearings - they only go in easily if the spindle is frozen. Once it warms up, it's stuck unless you tap with a mallet. Never had a problem with lateral play in the system.

My gravel bike has a SRAM BB30, which uses the a nylon collar to adjust the bearing preload. I've stripped one out during a ride, that piece is marginal at best. Prefer Cannondale's system.

[Dan Gerous]

With radial bearings (most BB30 bearings are), you don't want to completely compress the wave washer. These bearings, by design, are not meant to handle too much side load. If the wave washer is fully flattened, it's too much and may reduce the bearing's life. But in my experience, with just a slight compresssion of the wave washer, there shouldn't be side to side movement in the crankset... Was there any play in the bearings themselves?

My cannondale is quite old, so my experience may not be relevant. But my BB30 spindle is interference fit with the bearings - they only go in easily if the spindle is frozen. Once it warms up, it's stuck unless you tap with a mallet. Never had a problem with lateral play in the system.

My gravel bike has a SRAM BB30, which uses the a nylon collar to adjust the bearing preload. I've stripped one out during a ride, that piece is marginal at best. Prefer Cannondale's system.

Normally, yes, the spindle is tight enough in the bearings that it shouldn't really move and should not be insertable just by hand, they are supposed to be tapped in with a rubber mallet. Not all bearings have equal manufacturing tolerance though.

By the way, you can convert your SRAM BB30 to use a wave washer and shims if you prefer. The adjusting collar is removable entirely, so you can just replace it with spacers. That's how you install SRAM BB30 cranksets on Cannondale BB30a and PF30a 73mm BB shells as there is no room for a collar. Or, I think Cane Creek makes a nicer, more durable alloy collar.

[Hexsense]

Thanks for all comments. I added another 0.5mm shim and it's much better. There is still some very small movement when I push the non-drive side crank in horizontal direction. If I add another shim it's gone and there isn't any movement possible. I doubt what to do now, I don't see the added value from the wave washer if I add another shim. The instruction letter says: "Tighten the fixing bolt to 40Nm and check to see if wave washer is properly preloaded (STILL HAS SLIGHT WAVE AND NOT LOOSE)". If I add another shim there isn't any "wave" aymore, so I guess it's normal that this system has a little movement in horizontal direction.

If for some reason you need large side preload force. Consider using Angular Contact bearings (WheelsMFG / Enduro make some of these).
But normally, you don't. Radial contact bearing is better in normal situation.

[floriansantana]

Attached a picture from the current situation...

I'll post more pictures when she is ready. It's a SuperSix Evo Hi-Mod with Chameleon paint. Aiming for sub 6...

Stupid question, but have you tightened the bolts on both side to the correct torque which is around 40Nm? Mine is almost too tight with one additional washer.

[TDA]

With radial bearings (most BB30 bearings are), you don't want to completely compress the wave washer. These bearings, by design, are not meant to handle too much side load. If the wave washer is fully flattened, it's too much and may reduce the bearing's life. But in my experience, with just a slight compresssion of the wave washer, there shouldn't be side to side movement in the crankset... Was there any play in the bearings themselves?

Thanks, there is only side to side movement, no play on the bearings. In fact I'm compressing the wave washer more by pushing, so it seems logic to me thar there is a little movement. Thanks for thinking along!

[TDA]

Attached a picture from the current situation...

I'll post more pictures when she is ready. It's a SuperSix Evo Hi-Mod with Chameleon paint. Aiming for sub 6...

Stupid question, but have you tightened the bolts on both side to the correct torque which is around 40Nm? Mine is almost too tight with one additional washer.

Yes, I did. Even a bit more to see if that would solve the (possible) issue. Thanks

[spud]

By the way, you can convert your SRAM BB30 to use a wave washer and shims if you prefer. The adjusting collar is removable entirely, so you can just replace it with spacers. That's how you install SRAM BB30 cranksets on Cannondale BB30a and PF30a 73mm BB shells as there is no room for a collar. Or, I think Cane Creek makes a nicer, more durable alloy collar.
[/quote]

That's a very good idea. If the collar strips out again, that's the approach I will take.

[TDA]

Ready for the Dutch roads! Happy with the result, doubt to change the pink Sigeyi for a black version... Ordered Titanum pedals at Kickstarter to save another 122 grams. Currently happy with the 6.2kg