Computer mount is an easy to fix matter
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That Garmin mount looks nice. Can you post a link to the .stl 3d print file, or thingiverse.com?
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Raceware also sells a lot of different versions.
Moderator: robbosmans
Computer mount is an easy to fix matter
Approximate 120gWorkonSunday wrote: ↑Thu Dec 12, 2019 8:21 amsorry for a slightly off topic question.
Any one know the painted gen 2 (2019) supersix frame/fork weights? for both hi-mod and non-HM.
I'm trying to see how hard is it to build a 6kg commuter without using very exotic parts.
I suppose you could save some grams by replacing all steel bolts with titanium ones.Kortekeer wrote: ↑Sat Dec 28, 2019 1:48 pmI received a new seatpost and clamp from Cannondale, however they creaked immediately when just sitting on it in the bike shop. The mechanic installed it whilst on phone to Cannondale and no good. Now whole bike is on way back to them so hopefully good news shortly as need to get the legs spinning to start shifting the xmas fat.
In the mean time have recieved a knot stem and save bars - I like the integrated look. 508grms (missing 2 bolts). Hefty but not the 600grms reported. 556grms with raceware garmin mount. (40cm bars, 100cm stem)
My plan was to get Di2 immediately but spent on a turbo trainer instead to help through winter.
hernejj wrote: ↑Sun Dec 29, 2019 2:57 amI picked up a 2020 SuperSix (105 disc) from the bike shop today. I immiedately disassembled it for a complete re-build (di2, mavic wheels, SRAM Red BB30 cranks, 3T stem/bars). One problem I'm having at the moment though is that I cannot seem to get all the wobble out of the fork/headset. Does anyone know what mechanism provides headset tension? The top cap seems to be for looks only as it does not appear to rovide any tension at all.
Now that I've thought about it more, I suspect the top cap really does provide headset preload., just like most top caps. I just need to loosen my stem (and Knot spacer set screw) and try tightening the top cap first.TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Sun Dec 29, 2019 3:32 amhernejj wrote: ↑Sun Dec 29, 2019 2:57 amI picked up a 2020 SuperSix (105 disc) from the bike shop today. I immiedately disassembled it for a complete re-build (di2, mavic wheels, SRAM Red BB30 cranks, 3T stem/bars). One problem I'm having at the moment though is that I cannot seem to get all the wobble out of the fork/headset. Does anyone know what mechanism provides headset tension? The top cap seems to be for looks only as it does not appear to rovide any tension at all.
Are you sure your topcap isn't hitting the top of the steerer/expander plug?
Of course you need to loosen the stem bolts to tighten the headset tension. If it still does not work, you may have to put a spacer on top of the stem if the fork is too long. Or the expander needs to go deeper into the fork.hernejj wrote: ↑Sun Dec 29, 2019 4:53 amNow that I've thought about it more, I suspect the top cap really does provide headset preload., just like most top caps. I just need to loosen my stem (and Knot spacer set screw) and try tightening the top cap first.TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Sun Dec 29, 2019 3:32 amhernejj wrote: ↑Sun Dec 29, 2019 2:57 amI picked up a 2020 SuperSix (105 disc) from the bike shop today. I immiedately disassembled it for a complete re-build (di2, mavic wheels, SRAM Red BB30 cranks, 3T stem/bars). One problem I'm having at the moment though is that I cannot seem to get all the wobble out of the fork/headset. Does anyone know what mechanism provides headset tension? The top cap seems to be for looks only as it does not appear to rovide any tension at all.
Are you sure your topcap isn't hitting the top of the steerer/expander plug?
The relevant page from an old owner's manual:hernejj wrote: ↑Sun Dec 29, 2019 4:53 amNow that I've thought about it more, I suspect the top cap really does provide headset preload., just like most top caps. I just need to loosen my stem (and Knot spacer set screw) and try tightening the top cap first.TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Sun Dec 29, 2019 3:32 amhernejj wrote: ↑Sun Dec 29, 2019 2:57 amI picked up a 2020 SuperSix (105 disc) from the bike shop today. I immiedately disassembled it for a complete re-build (di2, mavic wheels, SRAM Red BB30 cranks, 3T stem/bars). One problem I'm having at the moment though is that I cannot seem to get all the wobble out of the fork/headset. Does anyone know what mechanism provides headset tension? The top cap seems to be for looks only as it does not appear to rovide any tension at all.
Are you sure your topcap isn't hitting the top of the steerer/expander plug?
Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. Turns out this thing works like every other normal setup Just loosen everything and tighten the top cap first. I originally misunderstood how the tri-expander thingy worked.floriansantana wrote: ↑Sun Dec 29, 2019 10:36 amOf course you need to loosen the stem bolts to tighten the headset tension. If it still does not work, you may have to put a spacer on top of the stem if the fork is too long. Or the expander needs to go deeper into the fork.hernejj wrote: ↑Sun Dec 29, 2019 4:53 amNow that I've thought about it more, I suspect the top cap really does provide headset preload., just like most top caps. I just need to loosen my stem (and Knot spacer set screw) and try tightening the top cap first.TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Sun Dec 29, 2019 3:32 amhernejj wrote: ↑Sun Dec 29, 2019 2:57 amI picked up a 2020 SuperSix (105 disc) from the bike shop today. I immiedately disassembled it for a complete re-build (di2, mavic wheels, SRAM Red BB30 cranks, 3T stem/bars). One problem I'm having at the moment though is that I cannot seem to get all the wobble out of the fork/headset. Does anyone know what mechanism provides headset tension? The top cap seems to be for looks only as it does not appear to rovide any tension at all.
Are you sure your topcap isn't hitting the top of the steerer/expander plug?
I figured this one out. Like most internally routed cables, things go easier if you first run a rigid wire/cable of some sort through the internal wire path and then tape your real cable to it. Then you can fish your cable through by pulling it along with the "fishing" cable. I was taping my fishing cable directly to the di2 wire head. This made it too thick to fit through the tiny gap at the head tube. The solution was to tape just underneath the di2 cable head. This allowed the di2 cable head to move around a bit more and find the correct position necessary to fit through the tiny channel. Hope this helps someone else.
hernejj wrote: ↑Sun Dec 29, 2019 4:40 pm...
Now... onto the NEXT challenge... Fishing the rear derailer di2 cable through the internal routing channel in the chainstay. There is some chokepoint in there seemingly about 2-3 inches from the bottom bracket. I can fit a tiny wire through but NOT a di-2 cable head. Has anyone succesfully done this?