Are We Getting A New Cannondale Supersix?

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Dan Gerous
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by Dan Gerous

cerro wrote:
Sun Nov 17, 2019 6:41 pm
Can't the Di2 cables be routed internally around the bb?
No problem keeping everything internal, as long as nothing rubs the BB spindle, I'm sure you already know many cool tricks to keep everything clean and tidy inside without anything touching, moving or rattling... but I gotta admit Discodan's use of the cable guides is a pretty good solution, simple, clean, everything should stay put and silent.

If you use some plastic 'sheild' or sleeve, make sure it can't rattle loose or move, I opened a Synapse once that had a plastic sleeve supposed to be held between the BB cups to protect the spindle from hoses/wires, it somehow eventually came loose over time, it got nudged by the rear brake hose and touched the spindle, almost wore completely through it, discovered just in time.

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Bluechip
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by Bluechip

A question about the computer mount on the Save/Knot bars. It has the standard Garmin mount on top and a "male" Garmin mount underneath. How can you convert the lower to a go/pro or Cycliq mount?

S6ED
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by S6ED

slashy wrote:
Sun Nov 17, 2019 7:08 pm
I did with mine. I cut a piece of plastic from a plastic waterbottle and put it above the spindle (resting on the bearing cups). it prevents the wires from touching the spindle.
My gen2 Evo Hi-Mod Disc came with a plastic FSA sleeve between the aluminium bearing cups, so the spindle is not exposed at all.

Like the one in the photos.
Attachments
FSA-PF30-Road-Innenlager-46-x-68-86-5-mm-schwarz-Standard-35729-104242-1481255747.jpg
FSA-PF30-Road-Innenlager-46-x-68-86-5-mm-schwarz-Standard-35729-104241-1481265527.jpg

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flashpunk
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by flashpunk

Bluechip wrote:
Sun Nov 17, 2019 11:34 pm
A question about the computer mount on the Save/Knot bars. It has the standard Garmin mount on top and a "male" Garmin mount underneath. How can you convert the lower to a go/pro or Cycliq mount?
There's a Garmin branded adapter that will attach and provide a gopro type mount

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Dan Gerous
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by Dan Gerous

flashpunk wrote:
Tue Nov 19, 2019 1:26 am
Bluechip wrote:
Sun Nov 17, 2019 11:34 pm
A question about the computer mount on the Save/Knot bars. It has the standard Garmin mount on top and a "male" Garmin mount underneath. How can you convert the lower to a go/pro or Cycliq mount?
There's a Garmin branded adapter that will attach and provide a gopro type mount
Or get a KNØT Garmin mount with integrated GoPro mount by racewaredirect, it's fixed to the bolts under the stem so the computer sits in line with the bars, much better looking than Cannondale's 2km high mount IMO.

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flashpunk
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by flashpunk

Image

Here is a photo of that mount

Discodan
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by Discodan

That's much nicer than the knot unit, money well spent

The gen 3 SS has the spindle exposed as the bearings just press into the frame

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Bluechip
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by Bluechip

Someone on another site suggested this. https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/55290 ... XJk139E9FY

I'll try this first and if I don't like the setup I'll spring for the raceware mount.

THanks everyone!

bet1216
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by bet1216

Discodan wrote:
Tue Nov 19, 2019 2:25 am

The gen 3 SS has the spindle exposed as the bearings just press into the frame
yes but there are some solutions like the bbinfinite bb for 30M that are 1 piece or others have halves that overlap so the spindle is not exposed.

S6ED
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by S6ED

Discodan wrote:
Tue Nov 19, 2019 2:25 am

The gen 3 SS has the spindle exposed as the bearings just press into the frame
I do not own the gen3 Evo, so I don't have first hand experience with it, but in the following photos one can clearly see the FSA bottom bracket (the red one with ceramic bearings) installed to the EF bikes. This FSA bottom bracket definitely has plastic cups, which are pressed into the frame with the bearings already pressed into the cups.

It would be very odd indeed that the new bike has the bearings directly pressed into the frame like some cheap aluminium bikes...

So, one can just buy the FSA part (the black one with steel bearings, like in my post above) or the red one (with ceramic bearings, like in the photo below) and not have to worry about cables touching the spindle.
Attachments
66348465_2387928207954240_2506092174990204661_n.jpg
gettyimages-1168044770-2048x2048.jpg
pf30bb386_bb_road_k-force_light_with_ceramic_bearings.png

Discodan
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by Discodan

That BB in your pic is a PF30 whereas the SSE has a BB30a which is 5mm wider. I'm just speculating but maybe they've used a PF30 BB (cheaper?) and ditched the internal sleeve as it's not long enough for PF30a. I'm not sure, but really it's not enough of an issue that I'd be replacing the BB to fix it, it's actually an advantage as you can access the internals of the frame just by removing the cranks and not the BB as well

Re the bearings being pressed straight into the frame, it's actually usually only the higher quality carbon frames that can get away with this as it relies on closer tolerances but it's common. The BB30, BB90, BB93, and BB95 standards all have the bearings pressed straight into the frame. There may actually be a very minimal plastic cup between the frame and bearing on the G3 SSE (therefore technically making it a PF30a), I didn't look that closely, but Cannondale pressed straight into the frame in other models. Have a read of the article below, a decent explanation of all of their confusingly named and weird BB "standards"

https://www.kogel.cc/blogs/kbba/cannond ... -explained

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Dan Gerous
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by Dan Gerous

Discodan wrote:
Wed Nov 20, 2019 10:18 am
That BB in your pic is a PF30 whereas the SSE has a BB30a which is 5mm wider. I'm just speculating but maybe they've used a PF30 BB (cheaper?) and ditched the internal sleeve as it's not long enough for PF30a. I'm not sure, but really it's not enough of an issue that I'd be replacing the BB to fix it, it's actually an advantage as you can access the internals of the frame just by removing the cranks and not the BB as well

Re the bearings being pressed straight into the frame, it's actually usually only the higher quality carbon frames that can get away with this as it relies on closer tolerances but it's common. The BB30, BB90, BB93, and BB95 standards all have the bearings pressed straight into the frame. There may actually be a very minimal plastic cup between the frame and bearing on the G3 SSE (therefore technically making it a PF30a), I didn't look that closely, but Cannondale pressed straight into the frame in other models. Have a read of the article below, a decent explanation of all of their confusingly named and weird BB "standards"

https://www.kogel.cc/blogs/kbba/cannond ... -explained
I think you are confused with the terms here. BB30, PF30, BB30a, PF30a all use the same bearings, 'a' stands for asymetric and refers to the non-driveside bearing being moved 5mm outboard and a width of 73mm but can be in both BB30a or PF30a frame while BB30 and PF30 are symetrical and 68mm wide. Then the more critical distinction as far as BB goes, BB30 (and BB30a) means bearings are pressed directly into the frame which is either an alloy frame or has a permanently bonded alloy sleeve with the bearing bores and circlips, PF30 (and PF30a) means the bearings are installed into cups and it's the cups that are pressed into the frame.

The FSA BB pictured above is both a PF30 and PF30a, most PF30 BB also work in PF30a frames.

1st gen Evo was PF30, gen 2 and now 3 are both PF30a.

Personally I prefer not having a sleeve between bearings as it allows access to Di2 wires and junction box without having to take off the whole BB in frames without a big opening underneath the frame, it's not needed often but is easy enough to route everything while making sure nothing touches the spindle.
Last edited by Dan Gerous on Wed Nov 20, 2019 6:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Dan Gerous
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by Dan Gerous

Sprinklicious! :thumbup:

S6ED
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by S6ED

Dan Gerous wrote:
Wed Nov 20, 2019 2:52 pm
Discodan wrote:
Wed Nov 20, 2019 10:18 am
That BB in your pic is a PF30 whereas the SSE has a BB30a which is 5mm wider. I'm just speculating but maybe they've used a PF30 BB (cheaper?) and ditched the internal sleeve as it's not long enough for PF30a. I'm not sure, but really it's not enough of an issue that I'd be replacing the BB to fix it, it's actually an advantage as you can access the internals of the frame just by removing the cranks and not the BB as well

Re the bearings being pressed straight into the frame, it's actually usually only the higher quality carbon frames that can get away with this as it relies on closer tolerances but it's common. The BB30, BB90, BB93, and BB95 standards all have the bearings pressed straight into the frame. There may actually be a very minimal plastic cup between the frame and bearing on the G3 SSE (therefore technically making it a PF30a), I didn't look that closely, but Cannondale pressed straight into the frame in other models. Have a read of the article below, a decent explanation of all of their confusingly named and weird BB "standards"

https://www.kogel.cc/blogs/kbba/cannond ... -explained
I think you are confused with the terms here. BB30, PF30, BB30a, PF30a all use the same bearings, 'a' stands for asymetric and refers to the non-driveside bearing being moved 5mm outboard and a width of 73mm but can be in both BB30a or PF30a frame while BB30 and PF30 are symetrical and 68mm wide. Then the more critical distinction as far as BB goes, BB30 (and BB30a) means bearings are pressed directly into the frame which is either an alloy frame or has a permanently bonded alloy sleeve with the bearing bores and circlips, PF30 (and PF30a) means the bearings are installed into cups and it's the cups that are pressed into the frame.

The FSA BB pictured above is both a PF30 and PF30a, most PF30 BB also work in PF30a frames.

1st gen Evo was PF30, gen 2 and now 3 are both PF30a.

Personally I prefer not having a sleeve between bearings as it allows access to Di2 wires and junction box without having to take off the whole BB in frames without a big opening underneath the frame, it's not needed often but is easy enough to route everything while making sure nothing touches the spindle.
:thumbup:

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