Are We Getting A New Cannondale Supersix?

[ch00bzs]

Just in case you guys wondering how's the development of the aftermarket "full internal cable routing" for mechanical groupset, kindly go to https://blog.naver.com/mtbkim/221591620464

sadly the guy don't sell them outside of his store

[hannawald]

Hi Supersix owners,

I would like to ask you for urgent help, I have a serious problem with my brand new (size 56) Supersix.
DuraAce 160mm rotor on centerlock CarbonTi hub is rubbing my Supersix fork, they are touching each other.

I have just borrowed Knot64 front wheel from my friend to try Cannondale hub. There is no rubbing but the gap is really really small, may be 0,5mm.

How is it with your Supersix? Is it similar, do you also have such a small gap between edge of rotor and fork?
What hubs do you use?

Thank you so much!

Here some photos:

CarbonTi hub rubbing


Small space with Cannondale hub (and pretty terribly centered brake mount)


CarbonTi hub rubbing


CarbonTi hub rubbing (close picture)


Bike

[disc0stu]

@hannawald, it is a very small gap. Mine came with the 105 / 160mm RT54 rotors and have about 1-2mm of clearance:



I wouldn't worry too much unless it is actually touching.

[disc0stu]

Here is my 105 / Supersix 2020 Disc. Straight out of the box, no pedals, it's 8.4kg (56cm):



I think a lot of the weight is in the seat/post, wheels, and handlebars.

The seat and post combined are 539g, and the fulcrum wheels (everything removed) 1911g.

So you could easily drop 700g there.

The plan is to get some aero bars, hunt 4050 wheels, hollowgram carbon post, berk lupina padded saddle.

That should bring it down to around 7.2, which will be at an aero/weight point I'd be happy with.

Two things I've noticed which I don't like are the steering "lock", I don't know if it's a new thing on bikes or just because this has the cables concealed in the steerer tube but it's a right pain getting it in and out of the car, and also on full lock making really tight turns is a bit of a pain. And secondly the spacers up front look absolutely terrible if you haven't got a fancy pants systembar or totally slammed.

[hannawald]

Thank you for sharing your photo. You have definitely bigger space there with Fulcrum wheels..i would welcome more hubs if possible..deciding whether to make warranty claim or buy different wheelset or what is the problem..

[disc0stu]

Well hub width is, or you'd have thought to be a constant amongst all manufacturers.

I just measured mine with a pair of verniers and at its closest to the fork it is 1.7mm.. so pretty close!

Did you torque the centerlock up? It needs a fair amount of welly according to the recommended 40nm.

[Discodan]

A little less than 2mm clearance with SRAM centreline x discs on novatec hubs

Stu, I did the same build as you're starting and ultegra Di2 with 1535g wheels, came in at 7.4kg

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

[hannawald]

It seems like my fork is defective:( i tried wheels with DT350 hubs. There was Hope rotor mounted via 6bolt adapter. It touched the fork where the rotor aluminoum spider is connected to outer steel parts. When i mounted dura ace rotors on this hub, there was like 0,2-0,3 mm clearance.

I measured the fork thickness at the height between 2 bolt holes for mounting the brake calipers. It is 17mm. Can somebody measure his/hers for me please? I feel there may be small “hill” on my fork..

[disc0stu]

Cheers Dan, yes I did see your bike earlier in the thread, looks mint!

Personally I can live with the 105 mechanical. I think the first upgrade will be the Hunt 4050's, and see where to go from there.

@hannawald mines 17mm.

[hannawald]

Thank you Stu, really appreciate your help. I am a bit desperate, thanks for helping me in my investigation. I wrote an email to my Cannondale dealer. I really hope they won´t have to send it to Cannondale and I will wait 30 days for solution.

[hannawald]

Btw my Supersix is 6,9 kgs in size 56 as pictured. There are still aluminium bars, heavy bar tape and bolt bar end plugs. So I think 6,8 kgs will be real with Farsports F1 bars and Lizzard Skins tape so a figure I was hoping for. It´s basically SISL2 cranks, Dura Ace Di2 and LB 56mm rims laced to Carbon Ti hubs (1415g wheelset)

I wanted to use Carbonworks cages but they are not compatible with my chaincatcher so I have to use Elite cages.

[floriansantana]

Thank you for sharing your photo. You have definitely bigger space there with Fulcrum wheels..i would welcome more hubs if possible..deciding whether to make warranty claim or buy different wheelset or what is the problem..

No photo as of now, but on my Hunt wheels (which have Hunt hubs that are probably Novatec hubs) the clearance is pretty narrow but no rubbing even if I’m sprinting. Same for my Zipp 404s. But I had to look twice at first as wheel when I built the bike because the rotor is pretty close to the fork leg.

[hannawald]

I don’t know if you have the same but i think there is unnecessary overhang on the fork between bolt mounts, looks like a bulb..

[Wenne]

ca. 2mm

[Morritz]

Hello!

I'm a new member here, purposely signing up to chip in to this particular thread after recently purchasing the Hi Mod Dura Ace mechanical SSE3. This thread has been absolutely amazing in answering so many of my queries I have about upgrading a few bits here and there, so firstly, let me just say a massive thanks for being so open with ideas etc.
I went with mechancial DA after fearing replacement costs on di2 and AXS upgrades (its my own fear, generated by experiences of derailleur damage during travel and careless parking at coffee stops) and am really keen to find out more about concealing the cables internally for mechanical users.

Here's a question though - and I think it has been covered ever-so-slightly here. Is the new Hollowgram SI crank arm on the new Cannondales any different to the older types, or is it simply a graphics thing? I'm swapping out the power meter (i can't bring myself to pay for the activation fee) for a Stages Hollowgram crank and need to buy a right crankarm (I need a 170mm) and will probably need to match the Stages crank with the older graphics.... am i missing anything by buying an older style? Thanks in advance. I look forward to seeing more quality builds here and also to hear more great tips/guidance.
Dan