Regarding tyre system, chacun à son goût, I suppose. I live in a mountainous area and do quite fast descends so I want to eliminte the possibility of the tyre coming off the rim in case of a flat, so that I can stop the bike with safety. I've had some horror scenarios with flat clinchers, so tubeless is for me the way to go. The extra hassle with sealant etc. is in fact a non issue as I don't change tyres every week. Plus the benefit of running lower pressures, which means better grip and comfier ride.Dan Gerous wrote: ↑Tue Jul 07, 2020 4:38 pmRoad tubeless is like the cross fit of bike tech: those who do it are always trying to tell everyone else they should do it!
Personally, I think life is too short to deal with the added trouble, mess and cost of tubeless on the road IMO... unless you flat on a regular basis and enjoy the disconnected feel of very low pressures, otherwise there is nothing to gain performance wise. I tried it for a little over a year, didn't like the feel, either too harsh or feeling too dead, so I'm happily back on latex tubes. Paired with the suppler casings of non-tubeless tires, they are still faster to me anyway, I get better feedback from the road surface and no more gambling if a certain tire will work with a certain rim, any tire will install by hand and inflate in 2 minutes with normal pumps, I can swap tires for different conditions in 5 minutes, no need to worry if the sealant I put in two months before has completly dried...
Are We Getting A New Cannondale Supersix?
Moderator: robbosmans
- Dan Gerous
- Posts: 2413
- Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 6:28 pm
Chacun son goût en effet!S6ED wrote: ↑Tue Jul 07, 2020 7:05 pmRegarding tyre system, chacun à son goût, I suppose. I live in a mountainous area and do quite fast descends so I want to eliminte the possibility of the tyre coming off the rim in case of a flat, so that I can stop the bike with safety. I've had some horror scenarios with flat clinchers, so tubeless is for me the way to go. The extra hassle with sealant etc. is in fact a non issue as I don't change tyres every week. Plus the benefit of running lower pressures, which means better grip and comfier ride.Dan Gerous wrote: ↑Tue Jul 07, 2020 4:38 pmRoad tubeless is like the cross fit of bike tech: those who do it are always trying to tell everyone else they should do it!
Personally, I think life is too short to deal with the added trouble, mess and cost of tubeless on the road IMO... unless you flat on a regular basis and enjoy the disconnected feel of very low pressures, otherwise there is nothing to gain performance wise. I tried it for a little over a year, didn't like the feel, either too harsh or feeling too dead, so I'm happily back on latex tubes. Paired with the suppler casings of non-tubeless tires, they are still faster to me anyway, I get better feedback from the road surface and no more gambling if a certain tire will work with a certain rim, any tire will install by hand and inflate in 2 minutes with normal pumps, I can swap tires for different conditions in 5 minutes, no need to worry if the sealant I put in two months before has completly dried...
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Hello gents.
Insert is -10 degrees.
Option to switch tires fast is great of course!
Other than that i am completely ok to install tubeless tires myself, i have booster and my latest puncture was caused by something, what could have been easily fixed by tubeless.
And yes, descents are important, i want to improve them, and consider tubeless as safer option, if i puncture i hear the noise of sealant, and the tire stays on the rim... unlike clincher which can fall off.
Lower pressures are great.
In the meantime i am thinking about winter tires... considering some tubeless 32mm tires hehe
Insert is -10 degrees.
Option to switch tires fast is great of course!
Other than that i am completely ok to install tubeless tires myself, i have booster and my latest puncture was caused by something, what could have been easily fixed by tubeless.
And yes, descents are important, i want to improve them, and consider tubeless as safer option, if i puncture i hear the noise of sealant, and the tire stays on the rim... unlike clincher which can fall off.
Lower pressures are great.
In the meantime i am thinking about winter tires... considering some tubeless 32mm tires hehe
SW SL8 RTP 56cm @ 9270 / CLX II / CS OSPW / CEMA BB
SW Epic 8 Satin Carbon L @ XX T-Type / Berg Ratheberg 30 / Quarq / Fox Transfer SL 100mm / 3p SID Ultimate / in the making
SW Epic 8 Satin Carbon L @ XX T-Type / Berg Ratheberg 30 / Quarq / Fox Transfer SL 100mm / 3p SID Ultimate / in the making
Haha, i have just installed those gp5kTL 28front, 25 rear. It looks good if wheels are all black, optically increasing rim profile.
Bike is now heavier, so next time i will use some lighter ones.
Bike is now heavier, so next time i will use some lighter ones.
SW SL8 RTP 56cm @ 9270 / CLX II / CS OSPW / CEMA BB
SW Epic 8 Satin Carbon L @ XX T-Type / Berg Ratheberg 30 / Quarq / Fox Transfer SL 100mm / 3p SID Ultimate / in the making
SW Epic 8 Satin Carbon L @ XX T-Type / Berg Ratheberg 30 / Quarq / Fox Transfer SL 100mm / 3p SID Ultimate / in the making
So after a few months of riding my SS, i can say that i am loving every aspect of it. However, my seatpost seems to shift out of position every other ride. It's not dropping, but rotating just a few degrees to the left. It's driving me insane.
I have had to remove the seatpost about four times now, re-aligning the seatpost binding wedge (which seems to shift, despite having the adhesive tape in place) and torquing it to the correct numbers. You can hear hear it 'shift' out of alignment when there is an almighty 'crack' and then a constant knocking when riding.
I am a 67kg rider, so i'm not causing any stress on the seatpost binding system. Anyone else had similar problems?
I have had to remove the seatpost about four times now, re-aligning the seatpost binding wedge (which seems to shift, despite having the adhesive tape in place) and torquing it to the correct numbers. You can hear hear it 'shift' out of alignment when there is an almighty 'crack' and then a constant knocking when riding.
I am a 67kg rider, so i'm not causing any stress on the seatpost binding system. Anyone else had similar problems?
Cannondale SS HM 2020
@pistaboy
@pistaboy
Hmmm, have to have a look, i was not aware it is even possible for the seatpost to shift left when it is not round shape..but i have constant click sounds riding uphill despite using tons of carbon paste (plus grease where it should be) and loctite on bolt and 6NM torque wrench (the bolt doesn´t loosen and the seatpost doesn´t slip)
I am going to try to put carbon paste between seatpost and its alu cradle..it is not carbon to carbon connection but i am desperately looking for solution..otherwise it is a nice bike.
I am going to try to put carbon paste between seatpost and its alu cradle..it is not carbon to carbon connection but i am desperately looking for solution..otherwise it is a nice bike.
Maybe you can check if the carbon paste has roughened up the seatpost in the meantime and just remove all the paste?
In the beginning (autumn '19) the seatpost slipped on my evo3, but was quiet. Used carbon paste to prevent it from slipping.
The carbon paste did create some creaking every now and again, but rode with it nonetheless.
When going to Gran Canaria at the beginning of this year (pre corona) I needed to remove the seatpost to fit the bike into my bikebag.
I removed all the carbon paste and noticed that the carbon paste had roughened up the seatpost/interals of frame slightly.
Upon arrival I decided not to use any carbon paste and very slightly overtorque the binder (6.2nm). This completly removed any creaking/dropping and use it like that ever since.
I removed the seatpost a couple of times since then never run into problems anymore.
In the beginning (autumn '19) the seatpost slipped on my evo3, but was quiet. Used carbon paste to prevent it from slipping.
The carbon paste did create some creaking every now and again, but rode with it nonetheless.
When going to Gran Canaria at the beginning of this year (pre corona) I needed to remove the seatpost to fit the bike into my bikebag.
I removed all the carbon paste and noticed that the carbon paste had roughened up the seatpost/interals of frame slightly.
Upon arrival I decided not to use any carbon paste and very slightly overtorque the binder (6.2nm). This completly removed any creaking/dropping and use it like that ever since.
I removed the seatpost a couple of times since then never run into problems anymore.
SuperSix Evo HM Replica 51 Frame with 6,78KG (ready to ride)
Buildlist:
Frame: Standard EVO HM Frameset in 51
Accessoires: Cannondale Headset and BB
Axles: Cannondale Quickrelease
Seatpost: Cannondale Carbon Save Seatpost
Cockpit: Farsports F1 Handlebar in 400x100 with Wahoo Mount
Bartape: Fizik Vento Tacky
Wheels: Leeze DISC WASO Evo with 38/55
Tires: Conti GP 5000 with Tubolito S-Road´s
Saddle: SQLab 612 R
Groupset: SRAM Red ETAP 2x11 with 36/52 and 11/30
Chain: SRAM Red
Rotor: 2x 160mm SRAM Centerline X
Powermeter: 4III - Single(nondrive)-Side
Bottlecages: 2x Carbon Merida
Pedals: XPEDO Pedale Thrust 8 Ti
Where i think i can save some more weight:
- Lighter Tires with TL Setup
- Lighter Chain
- 140mm Rotor at the back
- Swap complete Crank to SISL2 with 4III (expensive)
- go back to Stem/Bar Combo with lighter components
- Robert Axle´s
Where you guys think i can save some more weight ?
Thanks & Greetings Ted
Wow, great. The farsports spacer can go directly on the headset? I thought you have to have one spacer at least.
Weight can be saved on saddle for sure and more shallow wheels maybe with some light hubs.
Weight can be saved on saddle for sure and more shallow wheels maybe with some light hubs.
SW SL8 RTP 56cm @ 9270 / CLX II / CS OSPW / CEMA BB
SW Epic 8 Satin Carbon L @ XX T-Type / Berg Ratheberg 30 / Quarq / Fox Transfer SL 100mm / 3p SID Ultimate / in the making
SW Epic 8 Satin Carbon L @ XX T-Type / Berg Ratheberg 30 / Quarq / Fox Transfer SL 100mm / 3p SID Ultimate / in the making
- Dan Gerous
- Posts: 2413
- Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 6:28 pm
Curious as well on that spacer, I couldn't make it work...
elandria, don't waste money on Robert Axle Project axles, it saves about 7g total compared to the stock axles and they lose the 'speed' of the Speed Release design.
-
- Posts: 197
- Joined: Fri Mar 27, 2015 11:40 pm
Not sure how elandria did it. But I found someone who only used the far sports one as well and used 4 micro spacers underneath. But he said bearings are a little exposed.Dan Gerous wrote: ↑Wed Jul 08, 2020 2:10 pmCurious as well on that spacer, I couldn't make it work...
elandria, don't waste money on Robert Axle Project axles, it saves about 7g total compared to the stock axles and they lose the 'speed' of the Speed Release design.
-
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2020 8:44 pm
I have had a problem with mine also, although not the rotating issue. Mine would begin creaking every 200 or so miles becoming incredibly loud over the course of a ride - to the point it was so loud I thought the carbon was cracking. I would remove and clean the seatpost and binder, and realign the small nut base that sits in the frame (it had rotated). Then grease the back of the binder, grease the thread and cover the seatpost and seatpost-facing part of the binder in a load of carbon paste. This solved it usually for another 2-300 miles before happening again.Morritz wrote:So after a few months of riding my SS, i can say that i am loving every aspect of it. However, my seatpost seems to shift out of position every other ride. It's not dropping, but rotating just a few degrees to the left. It's driving me insane.
I have had to remove the seatpost about four times now, re-aligning the seatpost binding wedge (which seems to shift, despite having the adhesive tape in place) and torquing it to the correct numbers. You can hear hear it 'shift' out of alignment when there is an almighty 'crack' and then a constant knocking when riding.
I am a 67kg rider, so i'm not causing any stress on the seatpost binding system. Anyone else had similar problems?
Eventually I had enough and contacted my dealer and Cannondale advised them to torque to 8Nm and that should solve the problem - it did not, only exaggerated the problem. Eventually Cannondale sent me out a new seatpost and complete binder assembly. So far I have done just over 700 miles with the new post and binder, and touch-wood, haven’t had any problems and haven’t had to disassemble. I did have some very quiet creaks at first, which after torquing to 7Nm, were silenced.
I’d say try torquing to 8Nm, and see if that helps. Apparently Cannondale are aware of this issue and in most cases it’s solved by torquing to 8Nm and using a generous application of grease (on the back of the binder) and carbon paste everywhere else. If that doesn’t work, reach out to your dealer and see if they’ll be able to send you a replacement binder and/or seatpost. Good luck!
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Thanks so much for sharing this. I think I am going to have to contact CSG and see if they can support me. I don't want to keep removing/cleaning my seatpost every other ride - its very annoying.jacklongley wrote: ↑Wed Jul 08, 2020 7:14 pmI have had a problem with mine also, although not the rotating issue. Mine would begin creaking every 200 or so miles becoming incredibly loud over the course of a ride - to the point it was so loud I thought the carbon was cracking. I would remove and clean the seatpost and binder, and realign the small nut base that sits in the frame (it had rotated). Then grease the back of the binder, grease the thread and cover the seatpost and seatpost-facing part of the binder in a load of carbon paste. This solved it usually for another 2-300 miles before happening again.Morritz wrote:So after a few months of riding my SS, i can say that i am loving every aspect of it. However, my seatpost seems to shift out of position every other ride. It's not dropping, but rotating just a few degrees to the left. It's driving me insane.
I have had to remove the seatpost about four times now, re-aligning the seatpost binding wedge (which seems to shift, despite having the adhesive tape in place) and torquing it to the correct numbers. You can hear hear it 'shift' out of alignment when there is an almighty 'crack' and then a constant knocking when riding.
I am a 67kg rider, so i'm not causing any stress on the seatpost binding system. Anyone else had similar problems?
Eventually I had enough and contacted my dealer and Cannondale advised them to torque to 8Nm and that should solve the problem - it did not, only exaggerated the problem. Eventually Cannondale sent me out a new seatpost and complete binder assembly. So far I have done just over 700 miles with the new post and binder, and touch-wood, haven’t had any problems and haven’t had to disassemble. I did have some very quiet creaks at first, which after torquing to 7Nm, were silenced.
I’d say try torquing to 8Nm, and see if that helps. Apparently Cannondale are aware of this issue and in most cases it’s solved by torquing to 8Nm and using a generous application of grease (on the back of the binder) and carbon paste everywhere else. If that doesn’t work, reach out to your dealer and see if they’ll be able to send you a replacement binder and/or seatpost. Good luck!
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Cannondale SS HM 2020
@pistaboy
@pistaboy
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