Are We Getting A New Cannondale Supersix?

Back by popular demand, the general all-things Road forum!

Moderator: robbosmans

S6ED
Posts: 334
Joined: Sun Jun 30, 2019 1:22 pm

by S6ED

Dan Gerous wrote:
Tue Jul 07, 2020 4:38 pm
Road tubeless is like the cross fit of bike tech: those who do it are always trying to tell everyone else they should do it! :mrgreen: :wink:

Personally, I think life is too short to deal with the added trouble, mess and cost of tubeless on the road IMO... unless you flat on a regular basis and enjoy the disconnected feel of very low pressures, otherwise there is nothing to gain performance wise. I tried it for a little over a year, didn't like the feel, either too harsh or feeling too dead, so I'm happily back on latex tubes. Paired with the suppler casings of non-tubeless tires, they are still faster to me anyway, I get better feedback from the road surface and no more gambling if a certain tire will work with a certain rim, any tire will install by hand and inflate in 2 minutes with normal pumps, I can swap tires for different conditions in 5 minutes, no need to worry if the sealant I put in two months before has completly dried...
Regarding tyre system, chacun à son goût, I suppose. I live in a mountainous area and do quite fast descends so I want to eliminte the possibility of the tyre coming off the rim in case of a flat, so that I can stop the bike with safety. I've had some horror scenarios with flat clinchers, so tubeless is for me the way to go. The extra hassle with sealant etc. is in fact a non issue as I don't change tyres every week. Plus the benefit of running lower pressures, which means better grip and comfier ride.

User avatar
Dan Gerous
Posts: 2413
Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 6:28 pm

by Dan Gerous

S6ED wrote:
Tue Jul 07, 2020 7:05 pm
Dan Gerous wrote:
Tue Jul 07, 2020 4:38 pm
Road tubeless is like the cross fit of bike tech: those who do it are always trying to tell everyone else they should do it! :mrgreen: :wink:

Personally, I think life is too short to deal with the added trouble, mess and cost of tubeless on the road IMO... unless you flat on a regular basis and enjoy the disconnected feel of very low pressures, otherwise there is nothing to gain performance wise. I tried it for a little over a year, didn't like the feel, either too harsh or feeling too dead, so I'm happily back on latex tubes. Paired with the suppler casings of non-tubeless tires, they are still faster to me anyway, I get better feedback from the road surface and no more gambling if a certain tire will work with a certain rim, any tire will install by hand and inflate in 2 minutes with normal pumps, I can swap tires for different conditions in 5 minutes, no need to worry if the sealant I put in two months before has completly dried...
Regarding tyre system, chacun à son goût, I suppose. I live in a mountainous area and do quite fast descends so I want to eliminte the possibility of the tyre coming off the rim in case of a flat, so that I can stop the bike with safety. I've had some horror scenarios with flat clinchers, so tubeless is for me the way to go. The extra hassle with sealant etc. is in fact a non issue as I don't change tyres every week. Plus the benefit of running lower pressures, which means better grip and comfier ride.
Chacun son goût en effet! :thumbup:

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

www.starbike.com



S6ED
Posts: 334
Joined: Sun Jun 30, 2019 1:22 pm

by S6ED

[/quote]
Chacun son goût en effet! :thumbup:
[/quote]

:thumbup:

req110
Posts: 858
Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2018 10:23 am

by req110

Hello gents.
Insert is -10 degrees.

Option to switch tires fast is great of course!

Other than that i am completely ok to install tubeless tires myself, i have booster and my latest puncture was caused by something, what could have been easily fixed by tubeless.

And yes, descents are important, i want to improve them, and consider tubeless as safer option, if i puncture i hear the noise of sealant, and the tire stays on the rim... unlike clincher which can fall off.

Lower pressures are great.

In the meantime i am thinking about winter tires... considering some tubeless 32mm tires hehe
SW SL8 RTP 56cm @ 9270 / CLX II / CS OSPW / CEMA BB
SW Epic 8 Satin Carbon L @ XX T-Type / Berg Ratheberg 30 / Quarq / Fox Transfer SL 100mm / 3p SID Ultimate / in the making

req110
Posts: 858
Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2018 10:23 am

by req110

Haha, i have just installed those gp5kTL 28front, 25 rear. It looks good if wheels are all black, optically increasing rim profile.
Bike is now heavier, so next time i will use some lighter ones.
SW SL8 RTP 56cm @ 9270 / CLX II / CS OSPW / CEMA BB
SW Epic 8 Satin Carbon L @ XX T-Type / Berg Ratheberg 30 / Quarq / Fox Transfer SL 100mm / 3p SID Ultimate / in the making

Morritz
Posts: 32
Joined: Fri Feb 21, 2020 10:17 am

by Morritz

So after a few months of riding my SS, i can say that i am loving every aspect of it. However, my seatpost seems to shift out of position every other ride. It's not dropping, but rotating just a few degrees to the left. It's driving me insane.
I have had to remove the seatpost about four times now, re-aligning the seatpost binding wedge (which seems to shift, despite having the adhesive tape in place) and torquing it to the correct numbers. You can hear hear it 'shift' out of alignment when there is an almighty 'crack' and then a constant knocking when riding.

I am a 67kg rider, so i'm not causing any stress on the seatpost binding system. Anyone else had similar problems?
Cannondale SS HM 2020
@pistaboy

hannawald
Posts: 1692
Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2016 7:28 pm
Location: Czech Republic

by hannawald

Hmmm, have to have a look, i was not aware it is even possible for the seatpost to shift left when it is not round shape..but i have constant click sounds riding uphill despite using tons of carbon paste (plus grease where it should be) and loctite on bolt and 6NM torque wrench (the bolt doesn´t loosen and the seatpost doesn´t slip)
I am going to try to put carbon paste between seatpost and its alu cradle..it is not carbon to carbon connection but i am desperately looking for solution..otherwise it is a nice bike.

thraex05
Posts: 11
Joined: Sun Sep 01, 2013 8:50 pm

by thraex05

Maybe you can check if the carbon paste has roughened up the seatpost in the meantime and just remove all the paste?

In the beginning (autumn '19) the seatpost slipped on my evo3, but was quiet. Used carbon paste to prevent it from slipping.
The carbon paste did create some creaking every now and again, but rode with it nonetheless.

When going to Gran Canaria at the beginning of this year (pre corona) I needed to remove the seatpost to fit the bike into my bikebag.
I removed all the carbon paste and noticed that the carbon paste had roughened up the seatpost/interals of frame slightly.
Upon arrival I decided not to use any carbon paste and very slightly overtorque the binder (6.2nm). This completly removed any creaking/dropping and use it like that ever since.
I removed the seatpost a couple of times since then never run into problems anymore.

elandria
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2020 9:47 pm

by elandria

SuperSixEvoHM.JPG
Finaly my build is nearly complete and ready to be postet here.

SuperSix Evo HM Replica 51 Frame with 6,78KG (ready to ride)

Buildlist:
Frame: Standard EVO HM Frameset in 51
Accessoires: Cannondale Headset and BB
Axles: Cannondale Quickrelease
Seatpost: Cannondale Carbon Save Seatpost
Cockpit: Farsports F1 Handlebar in 400x100 with Wahoo Mount
Bartape: Fizik Vento Tacky
Wheels: Leeze DISC WASO Evo with 38/55
Tires: Conti GP 5000 with Tubolito S-Road´s
Saddle: SQLab 612 R
Groupset: SRAM Red ETAP 2x11 with 36/52 and 11/30
Chain: SRAM Red
Rotor: 2x 160mm SRAM Centerline X
Powermeter: 4III - Single(nondrive)-Side
Bottlecages: 2x Carbon Merida
Pedals: XPEDO Pedale Thrust 8 Ti


Where i think i can save some more weight:

- Lighter Tires with TL Setup
- Lighter Chain
- 140mm Rotor at the back
- Swap complete Crank to SISL2 with 4III (expensive)
- go back to Stem/Bar Combo with lighter components
- Robert Axle´s

Where you guys think i can save some more weight ?

Thanks & Greetings Ted

req110
Posts: 858
Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2018 10:23 am

by req110

Wow, great. The farsports spacer can go directly on the headset? I thought you have to have one spacer at least.

Weight can be saved on saddle for sure and more shallow wheels maybe with some light hubs.
SW SL8 RTP 56cm @ 9270 / CLX II / CS OSPW / CEMA BB
SW Epic 8 Satin Carbon L @ XX T-Type / Berg Ratheberg 30 / Quarq / Fox Transfer SL 100mm / 3p SID Ultimate / in the making

User avatar
Dan Gerous
Posts: 2413
Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 6:28 pm

by Dan Gerous

req110 wrote:
Wed Jul 08, 2020 1:41 pm
Wow, great. The farsports spacer can go directly on the headset? I thought you have to have one spacer at least.

Weight can be saved on saddle for sure and more shallow wheels maybe with some light hubs.
Curious as well on that spacer, I couldn't make it work...

elandria, don't waste money on Robert Axle Project axles, it saves about 7g total compared to the stock axles and they lose the 'speed' of the Speed Release design.

woodyvalentine
Posts: 197
Joined: Fri Mar 27, 2015 11:40 pm

by woodyvalentine

Dan Gerous wrote:
Wed Jul 08, 2020 2:10 pm
req110 wrote:
Wed Jul 08, 2020 1:41 pm
Wow, great. The farsports spacer can go directly on the headset? I thought you have to have one spacer at least.

Weight can be saved on saddle for sure and more shallow wheels maybe with some light hubs.
Curious as well on that spacer, I couldn't make it work...

elandria, don't waste money on Robert Axle Project axles, it saves about 7g total compared to the stock axles and they lose the 'speed' of the Speed Release design.
Not sure how elandria did it. But I found someone who only used the far sports one as well and used 4 micro spacers underneath. But he said bearings are a little exposed.
Attachments
E733D842-6DA9-4DF4-89F9-846A07F2E35B.png

elandria
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2020 9:47 pm

by elandria

Sorry guys, i did not do it by my own. My favourit local bike-shop installed the cockpit, but he told me, that he had to use many Chimps/Spacers.

jacklongley
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2020 8:44 pm

by jacklongley

Morritz wrote:So after a few months of riding my SS, i can say that i am loving every aspect of it. However, my seatpost seems to shift out of position every other ride. It's not dropping, but rotating just a few degrees to the left. It's driving me insane.
I have had to remove the seatpost about four times now, re-aligning the seatpost binding wedge (which seems to shift, despite having the adhesive tape in place) and torquing it to the correct numbers. You can hear hear it 'shift' out of alignment when there is an almighty 'crack' and then a constant knocking when riding.

I am a 67kg rider, so i'm not causing any stress on the seatpost binding system. Anyone else had similar problems?
I have had a problem with mine also, although not the rotating issue. Mine would begin creaking every 200 or so miles becoming incredibly loud over the course of a ride - to the point it was so loud I thought the carbon was cracking. I would remove and clean the seatpost and binder, and realign the small nut base that sits in the frame (it had rotated). Then grease the back of the binder, grease the thread and cover the seatpost and seatpost-facing part of the binder in a load of carbon paste. This solved it usually for another 2-300 miles before happening again.

Eventually I had enough and contacted my dealer and Cannondale advised them to torque to 8Nm and that should solve the problem - it did not, only exaggerated the problem. Eventually Cannondale sent me out a new seatpost and complete binder assembly. So far I have done just over 700 miles with the new post and binder, and touch-wood, haven’t had any problems and haven’t had to disassemble. I did have some very quiet creaks at first, which after torquing to 7Nm, were silenced.

I’d say try torquing to 8Nm, and see if that helps. Apparently Cannondale are aware of this issue and in most cases it’s solved by torquing to 8Nm and using a generous application of grease (on the back of the binder) and carbon paste everywhere else. If that doesn’t work, reach out to your dealer and see if they’ll be able to send you a replacement binder and/or seatpost. Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Morritz
Posts: 32
Joined: Fri Feb 21, 2020 10:17 am

by Morritz

jacklongley wrote:
Wed Jul 08, 2020 7:14 pm
Morritz wrote:So after a few months of riding my SS, i can say that i am loving every aspect of it. However, my seatpost seems to shift out of position every other ride. It's not dropping, but rotating just a few degrees to the left. It's driving me insane.
I have had to remove the seatpost about four times now, re-aligning the seatpost binding wedge (which seems to shift, despite having the adhesive tape in place) and torquing it to the correct numbers. You can hear hear it 'shift' out of alignment when there is an almighty 'crack' and then a constant knocking when riding.

I am a 67kg rider, so i'm not causing any stress on the seatpost binding system. Anyone else had similar problems?
I have had a problem with mine also, although not the rotating issue. Mine would begin creaking every 200 or so miles becoming incredibly loud over the course of a ride - to the point it was so loud I thought the carbon was cracking. I would remove and clean the seatpost and binder, and realign the small nut base that sits in the frame (it had rotated). Then grease the back of the binder, grease the thread and cover the seatpost and seatpost-facing part of the binder in a load of carbon paste. This solved it usually for another 2-300 miles before happening again.

Eventually I had enough and contacted my dealer and Cannondale advised them to torque to 8Nm and that should solve the problem - it did not, only exaggerated the problem. Eventually Cannondale sent me out a new seatpost and complete binder assembly. So far I have done just over 700 miles with the new post and binder, and touch-wood, haven’t had any problems and haven’t had to disassemble. I did have some very quiet creaks at first, which after torquing to 7Nm, were silenced.

I’d say try torquing to 8Nm, and see if that helps. Apparently Cannondale are aware of this issue and in most cases it’s solved by torquing to 8Nm and using a generous application of grease (on the back of the binder) and carbon paste everywhere else. If that doesn’t work, reach out to your dealer and see if they’ll be able to send you a replacement binder and/or seatpost. Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks so much for sharing this. I think I am going to have to contact CSG and see if they can support me. I don't want to keep removing/cleaning my seatpost every other ride - its very annoying.
Cannondale SS HM 2020
@pistaboy

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

www.starbike.com



Post Reply