Are We Getting A New Cannondale Supersix?
Moderator: robbosmans
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Cant get rid of disc squeal on the new build. I'm using ultegra hydraulic callipers and Robert Axle after market thru axles with a brand new Dura Ace rotor. The bike builder thought the disc was slightly warped so trued it yesterday but the noise is back. The callipers have been adjusted too.
Anyone experienced this - could it be the non oem axles/ sticking pistons?!
Anyone experienced this - could it be the non oem axles/ sticking pistons?!
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- Posts: 11
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Sorry it be clear it's not when breaking - I didn't explain very well. It's binding when riding
Try pushing the pads outwards when the wheel is removed, also called a piston reset. You can also try to remove the spring between the pads, bend it outwards some more than it is normally, then reinstall. I did this and adjusted the callipers properly and have basically never heard my discs apart from wet riding
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Thanks - tried all that. LBS has it today trying to service non serviceable pistons...! No callipers in stock anywhere. So frustrating as it's just been built (calliper was off my old bike)
Also torqued up seat post and applied carbon paste and grease as per manual and the creak was so loud I thought my frame has imploded. I sense this bike is going to be a bit tempremental
Also torqued up seat post and applied carbon paste and grease as per manual and the creak was so loud I thought my frame has imploded. I sense this bike is going to be a bit tempremental
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This is feedback i got from Cannondale:canterbizzle wrote:Thanks - tried all that. LBS has it today trying to service non serviceable pistons...! No callipers in stock anywhere. So frustrating as it's just been built (calliper was off my old bike)
Also torqued up seat post and applied carbon paste and grease as per manual and the creak was so loud I thought my frame has imploded. I sense this bike is going to be a bit tempremental
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Since our last communications we have another tip to help with noise issues if this does not help then a revised V2 seat wedge with a Teflon patch is added to it (eta mid June), that can be sourced through your retailer (K26151 )
If the nut plate is still stuck on the frame and a libral amount of grease on the touching metal parts and good amount of carbon paste on the frame then try tightening the 6nm bolt with this technique.
Re-set the post with liberal carbon paste on it, as you tighten the wedge do it a small amount (~1/2 turn) then rock the saddle hard up/down. You will hear a creak/crack, this is good, tighten a little again (1/2 turn) and rock once again until it creaks and repeat until you reach 6nm (could be about 4 or 5 times). This should allow the wedge to seat itself in the frame and no longer move or shift while riding and retains the 6nm after each ride and the post should not drop.
Check again after a couple of rides and ensure the 6nm is keeping hold of the wedge in the frame, once set should be fine,
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Interestingly, just installed my new Hylix post yesterday and not a single creak (despite the cannondale one it replaced creaking the day before !!). I’m no expert but the tube profile looks slightly different to the cannondale one - maybe less tolerance between the post and tye seat tube.
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Quick update on the Hylix post; the quality is pretty good out of the packaging, albeit there are a couple of flaws in the lacquer (but not visible when on the bike). Weight wise 128g, but 117g with 5cm city off. I have not checked to see if there is any more weight to save on the seat clamp parts.
The weight compares to 121g for my tuned cannondale Knot 27 seatpost.
Ridden it once and didn’t feel a discernible difference between the 2 posts, albeit I would assume the Knot would be a little more compliant given the profile at the top.
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The weight compares to 121g for my tuned cannondale Knot 27 seatpost.
Ridden it once and didn’t feel a discernible difference between the 2 posts, albeit I would assume the Knot would be a little more compliant given the profile at the top.
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They say so.
The 28 mm GP5000 should measure 28 mm on a 19c rim.
The 28 mm GP5000 should measure 28 mm on a 19c rim.
Measured width is what counts of course.
First post.....
Bought a 105 evo disc (same as beancouter's) a few weeks back from my LBS who gave me a good deal. Bit surprised at the weight but it rides so well, and I'm looking forward to losing some weight on it. This threads great for ideas although I'm going to be skint I think...... Have put an ultegra 11-25 cassette on and a lighter saddle so that's a start and will do the bigger items (wheels, cockpit, seat post and cranks in due course).
Planning to get lighter rotors wondering if anyone runs a 140mm rotor on the back? 160mm is enough on my MTB and I never had an issue braking on rim breaks.
Bought a 105 evo disc (same as beancouter's) a few weeks back from my LBS who gave me a good deal. Bit surprised at the weight but it rides so well, and I'm looking forward to losing some weight on it. This threads great for ideas although I'm going to be skint I think...... Have put an ultegra 11-25 cassette on and a lighter saddle so that's a start and will do the bigger items (wheels, cockpit, seat post and cranks in due course).
Planning to get lighter rotors wondering if anyone runs a 140mm rotor on the back? 160mm is enough on my MTB and I never had an issue braking on rim breaks.
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I run 140mm rotors front and back, no problems on the roads that I ride.
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Anymore news on the Hollowgram spider/ring for AXS system? FSA just announced their K-force Team Edition and has 53, 53 and 46 big rings. but i would rather stick with Hollowgram if i can! plus i dont have legs to push 52, but 46 may be tiny bit too small.
Some say pour 10ml water out of your bottle to save that last bit of the weight. Sorry, i go one step further, i tend to the rider off my bikes.
n+1...14 last time i checked, but i lost count
n+1...14 last time i checked, but i lost count
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