Power Meter - Crank vs Pedal
Moderator: robbosmans
It should work, I guess the sensors don’t communicate between each other, they just broadcast the measurements. It should all fall to how easy it is to swap the setting on your head unit, unless you have one for each bike.
Canyon Endurace CF SL Disc 8.0 SL / Triban RC 520
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I have Dura ace 9k pedals - they are great but I can't really perceive my Vectors as inferior. Maybe only when a shoe cover gets in the way. Currently with cheap Decathlon cleats - work well and quite durable.
I wouldn't think it would be that difficult... Based a a quick look through my Edge 520 a week back, IIRC, it gave me the option to show left or right power options. Add enough displays and you could show both. I think it would just be a matter of setting up another profile on the Garmin.
Intersting, thanks for the input/good news!Alexandrumarian wrote: ↑Sat Apr 06, 2019 12:08 amI have Dura ace 9k pedals - they are great but I can't really perceive my Vectors as inferior. Maybe only when a shoe cover gets in the way. Currently with cheap Decathlon cleats - work well and quite durable.
2018 Giant TCR Advanced Pro 0 Disc
2015 Giant Propel Advanced 2
2013 Trek 520
2015 Giant Propel Advanced 2
2013 Trek 520
not if you have pressfit BB, everytime you remove crank, you risk dislodging the retaining compoundgurk700 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 05, 2019 12:09 amI hate anything other than speedplay so I think you can guess my vote. FWIW I find S-Works, Quarq for crank based and Assioma's for pedal based to be equally great power meters. Owned them all extensively.
If your bottom brackets are the same between bikes, swapping cranks between bikes is super easy IMO. I'd go far as to say it's easier than changing pedals.
Retaining compound sits between bb and the bb shell. I don't understand how removing the spindle can risk dislodging the retaining compoundChiZ01 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 08, 2019 3:17 pmnot if you have pressfit BB, everytime you remove crank, you risk dislodging the retaining compoundgurk700 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 05, 2019 12:09 amI hate anything other than speedplay so I think you can guess my vote. FWIW I find S-Works, Quarq for crank based and Assioma's for pedal based to be equally great power meters. Owned them all extensively.
If your bottom brackets are the same between bikes, swapping cranks between bikes is super easy IMO. I'd go far as to say it's easier than changing pedals.

^It doesn’t. You are right. Retaining compound is (primarily) used between the cups and BB shell. Crank removal is a separate issue from removing the cups.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
i don't know what crank and BB you have, but my BB30 spindle never pull out that easily, have to hit with a soft hammergurk700 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 08, 2019 3:42 pmRetaining compound sits between bb and the bb shell. I don't understand how removing the spindle can risk dislodging the retaining compoundChiZ01 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 08, 2019 3:17 pmnot if you have pressfit BB, everytime you remove crank, you risk dislodging the retaining compoundgurk700 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 05, 2019 12:09 amI hate anything other than speedplay so I think you can guess my vote. FWIW I find S-Works, Quarq for crank based and Assioma's for pedal based to be equally great power meters. Owned them all extensively.
If your bottom brackets are the same between bikes, swapping cranks between bikes is super easy IMO. I'd go far as to say it's easier than changing pedals.![]()
That’s not because of retaining compound. It’s because of a tight fit between your 30mm spindle and the bearings. People would often freeze the spindle overnight to “shrink” it enough so that it slid in easier.
Having said that, I really don’t like any system that requires you to remove threaded components frequently. If you’re swapping once a season or something, fine. But if you want to be swapping between several bikes several times a week, I’d think about investing in a pm for each bike. I know, it costs more, but what a pain to be having to think about swapping pedals or cranks every day you want to go for a ride.
Having said that, I really don’t like any system that requires you to remove threaded components frequently. If you’re swapping once a season or something, fine. But if you want to be swapping between several bikes several times a week, I’d think about investing in a pm for each bike. I know, it costs more, but what a pain to be having to think about swapping pedals or cranks every day you want to go for a ride.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Never had an issue with Sram BB30 or NTN BB30 bearings with Sram Red, Quarq or S-Works Power cranks. It's snug but no hammers neededChiZ01 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 08, 2019 6:10 pmi don't know what crank and BB you have, but my BB30 spindle never pull out that easily, have to hit with a soft hammergurk700 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 08, 2019 3:42 pmRetaining compound sits between bb and the bb shell. I don't understand how removing the spindle can risk dislodging the retaining compoundChiZ01 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 08, 2019 3:17 pmnot if you have pressfit BB, everytime you remove crank, you risk dislodging the retaining compoundgurk700 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 05, 2019 12:09 amI hate anything other than speedplay so I think you can guess my vote. FWIW I find S-Works, Quarq for crank based and Assioma's for pedal based to be equally great power meters. Owned them all extensively.
If your bottom brackets are the same between bikes, swapping cranks between bikes is super easy IMO. I'd go far as to say it's easier than changing pedals.![]()

Still haven't commit yet but I have concluded based on Stages website that they are in fact separable. So I could buy the Stages dual sided, put the drive side on my Propel, the non-drive side on my TCR and move the non-drive side crank from the TCR to the Propel. Both would have R8000, both would have a power meter of some sort, and the Propel would get a decent crankset upgrade at the same time.
That said, unless my pedal efficiency is really lopsided left to right this shouldn't be a massive issue to have a power meter on opposite sides on different bikes right?
That said, unless my pedal efficiency is really lopsided left to right this shouldn't be a massive issue to have a power meter on opposite sides on different bikes right?
2018 Giant TCR Advanced Pro 0 Disc
2015 Giant Propel Advanced 2
2013 Trek 520
2015 Giant Propel Advanced 2
2013 Trek 520
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I would agree with your statement (and even if you were 'lopsided' I am not aware of any data that knowing this would change training that would make you 'faster'; some have argued that it might be useful for injuries..?).amngwlvs wrote: ↑Mon Apr 29, 2019 4:18 pmStill haven't commit yet but I have concluded based on Stages website that they are in fact separable. So I could buy the Stages dual sided, put the drive side on my Propel, the non-drive side on my TCR and move the non-drive side crank from the TCR to the Propel. Both would have R8000, both would have a power meter of some sort, and the Propel would get a decent crankset upgrade at the same time.
That said, unless my pedal efficiency is really lopsided left to right this shouldn't be a massive issue to have a power meter on opposite sides on different bikes right?
Having both single and dual powermeters, I would far prefer having a single sided powermeter on two bikes than a dual on one and none on the other.
Awesome, thanks for the opinion! I was kind of thinking the same thing. At the end of the day, when riding on the limit, I'm not going to be worried about left/right balance and will just be focusing on power output and not dying mid crit/race/fast group ride.cdncyclist wrote: ↑Mon Apr 29, 2019 4:59 pmI would agree with your statement (and even if you were 'lopsided' I am not aware of any data that knowing this would change training that would make you 'faster'; some have argued that it might be useful for injuries..?).amngwlvs wrote: ↑Mon Apr 29, 2019 4:18 pmStill haven't commit yet but I have concluded based on Stages website that they are in fact separable. So I could buy the Stages dual sided, put the drive side on my Propel, the non-drive side on my TCR and move the non-drive side crank from the TCR to the Propel. Both would have R8000, both would have a power meter of some sort, and the Propel would get a decent crankset upgrade at the same time.
That said, unless my pedal efficiency is really lopsided left to right this shouldn't be a massive issue to have a power meter on opposite sides on different bikes right?
Having both single and dual powermeters, I would far prefer having a single sided powermeter on two bikes than a dual on one and none on the other.
2018 Giant TCR Advanced Pro 0 Disc
2015 Giant Propel Advanced 2
2013 Trek 520
2015 Giant Propel Advanced 2
2013 Trek 520
It really depends on how far out your left/right balance is. Mine is about 54/46. If I used the left power meter on one bike and the right on another bike, they would be different by 16% (108% vs 92%), and both would be inaccurate by 8% but in different directions. This would be too unreliable for training purposes. But if you are much closer to 50/50 it might be less of an issue.