Drivetrain clicking/twitching

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StanK
Posts: 477
Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2018 11:10 am
Location: Croatia

by StanK

I examined quicklink. Connector link isn't tight, everything run smoothly. But ...
I measured chain, and part with quicklink included show that is stretched (more than 0,5), so quicklink is stretched for sure.
Part of a chain without quicklink is fine - almost like a new. So, that can be problem and solution, I hope.

Question ...
Does anybody has experience with PYC SP1101 chain? I suggested my LBS guy to ditch that quicklink in the first place (never had that on my road bike, ever) but he wanted to play safe. He wasn't sure will Shimano pin would be adequate or is it sensible at all to disassemble chain, ditch that quicklink and put it back together with his "pushed" pin.

It would be wasteful to throw away almost new chain, so if it possible to ditch that quicklink, I would do that. But, on the other hand, I don't want to risk it, don't want end up 50km from home with broken chain.
Maybe would be better to play safe "again" and buy Dura Ace chain?

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bikeboy1tr
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Joined: Thu Mar 21, 2013 3:19 am
Location: Southern Ontario Canada

by bikeboy1tr

I have run the quick link for years and they are normally not an issue if you replace them with your chains. I normally run Sram link and occaisionally KMC but I did try the DA quick link at one point and had issues with it making noises. I am not saying this is the problem but something to think about if you are running the DA link.
Other areas to check are drop outs front and rear, make sure they are clean on both sides and where the axle sits in the drop out. I know you did your pedals but did you clean the threads on the pedal spindle and the threads where the pedal threads into. If so make sure you have greased the pedal threads upon installion. Also make sure your rear drop out bolts are snug as well.
Clean the axles where they attach to your drop outs as well. These are simple things I do after being caught in the rain but even if its dry where you live dirt can still make its way into these areas I mention above.
Grab your seat and rock it back and forth in case your mount bolts are not tight enough. After these just go over all bolts you can with a wrench to make sure everything is tight.
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StanK
Posts: 477
Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2018 11:10 am
Location: Croatia

by StanK

Well, I got issue with chain, no doubt about that anymore. And I must sort this out sooner than later.
When I do this, if problem would still be there, then I will look elsewhere.

alcatraz
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Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:19 am

by alcatraz

Sorry to say your chain is ruined. Replace it and use a quicklink that fits snugly in the holes. (The old chain can be shortened but it will likely be too short)

If you can wiggle the links then you will encounter the same problem again. Don't install a chain with links that can wiggle excessively. Test them one by one by just inserting the pin on one end and wiggling.

It happens when the link doesn't match the chain. The pin diameter is too small.

The quicklink doesn't really wear. It's the inner links that connect to the link.

If you're really cheap you could cut two links off each end from the old chain and use two appropriately sized quicklinks together with the cut off excess from a new chain to produce two working chains. Yes I know people would think the idea is crazy. I wouldn't go touring around the world or race with that chain, but it will work.

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StanK
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Location: Croatia

by StanK

I have that extra piece of chain when we shortened it, but if it's not a good idea to put that back on part of it and ditch quicklink, I would tossed whole chain.

I think I will put new Dura Ace chain ... end of story. Version without quicklink, of course.
I used it on my previous bike, so can't see any reason not to use it now. Ok, I will probably add 10g or so, but I more appreciate silent riding than 1 kg more of weight, so it's really no brainer.

alcatraz
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Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:19 am

by alcatraz

There is nothing wrong with quicklinks.

You just used a bad combination.

Among ten chains this only happened on one and it's easily avoidable if you know what to look for.

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StanK
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Location: Croatia

by StanK

I don't understand this part - "bad combination" :?
I bought new chain and quicklink was integral part of that chain. I wasn't combine anything :)

Maybe it is 1:10 to happen, but I wasn't too happy from the start, now I'm sure I don't want it anymore. Can't see any benefit of quicklink for me anyway (I don't take chain off the bike, only when is ready to be replaced), so ...
I just hope that replacing chain would fix that clicking.

bikeboy1tr
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Joined: Thu Mar 21, 2013 3:19 am
Location: Southern Ontario Canada

by bikeboy1tr

I dont remember you saying which chain you purchased and is the quick link the same as the chain. I have run many different chains with the KMC and Sram quick link and no issues but the Shimano quick link has given me problems in the past. Actually I trust the quick link before the connector pin that comes with many chains as I have seen them fail before as well. The quick connector link is better and easier to confirm proper installation. The other great thing is you can carry a spare quick connect in case you do have issues out on the road. Hopefully you can sort it out soon.
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=154188
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alcatraz
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Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:19 am

by alcatraz

I've seen quicklinks supplied with chains to look the same as the ones you can buy for a usd on taobao. The difference was the wiggle room and reduced lifespan with the latter.

The cheap ones don't break, they just aren't optimized for every chain.

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StanK
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by StanK

bikeboy1tr wrote:
Tue Apr 02, 2019 11:59 pm
I dont remember you saying which chain you purchased and is the quick link the same as the chain...
In first post on this page and post just above yours.

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StanK
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Location: Croatia

by StanK

alcatraz wrote:
Wed Apr 03, 2019 6:03 am
I've seen quicklinks supplied with chains to look the same as the ones you can buy for a usd on taobao. The difference was the wiggle room and reduced lifespan with the latter.

The cheap ones don't break, they just aren't optimized for every chain.
So, another quicklink maybe would worked better? Ok, I wouldn't throw chain away then, I will keep it and maybe put it back, with better quicklink, when time to change come.

alcatraz
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Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:19 am

by alcatraz

The holes are already ovalised I'm afraid. The 0.5mm wear you measure over the quicklink will still be there with a new quicklink.

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StanK
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Location: Croatia

by StanK

Then I missed something. Or, that clicking maybe isnt' related to streched quicklink :|
I will change chain anyway, for my peace of mind, but if that would "cure" the problem, then I really see no point in quicklink. Maybe to someone that clicking/twitching isn't that noticable or don't care? I don't know.

mvcap
Posts: 176
Joined: Fri Apr 22, 2016 9:50 pm

by mvcap

I had this once, the occasional clicking. Someone else had installed a new chain for me and had mis-routed it through the rear jockey wheels. I checked EVERYTHING else because routing was so obvious (I thought) . You know the rest of the story. Just a thought in case you haven't checked it...

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StanK
Posts: 477
Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2018 11:10 am
Location: Croatia

by StanK

No, routing is fine, just one day started to clicking/twitching.
Btw. I finded someone who can replace chain, yesterday I was going there (it's a 3km ride) but in the end I came back home without going to that shop. Why? I ride 8km in total and chain was silent, everything was silent :unbelievable: Really strange. I will force myself to do some 20-30km today in order to do some ekstra testing, but I was really puzzled yesterday. :noidea:

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