Cutting a carbon steerer tube below stem

[Nefarious86]

Zipp make a cap that will allow 1-2mm of protrusion.

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[basilic]

I apologize to Alpine 318 for the catty comment, but the esthetic problem with the enve stem is the enve stem.
Imho of course.

[ChiZ01]

do it if you plan to never change stem, stems come in different stack heights

[Alpine318is]

I apologize to Alpine 318 for the catty comment, but the esthetic problem with the enve stem is the enve stem.
Imho of course.

Regardless I think most can agree that the less spacer above a stem the better.

In the picture below it says to cut the steerer 2-3mm below the top of the stem. I would be ok with that and then a 3-5mm spacer above the stem.

[hannawald]

There is no universal truth:) various manufacturers have different recommendations, you may have different recommendation from fork manufacturer and stem manufacturer. I would say your steerer should end above the higher one of stem bolts..
Generally 2-3mm spacer above the stem should be aesthetically fine..

[morganb]

Specialized actually tells you to cut it so that there is no steerer above the stem when using their compression plug/steerer. Their plug does provide a substantial amount of support though.

[joejack951]

This was my solution to eliminate the protruding spacer (a look I can't stand either):



CAD section view:

Refined design:

Downside is it needs to be bonded (Loctite retaining compound) into the steerer tube. Upside is you don't need a top cap (less weight), the plug fully supports the steerer tube for the length of the stem clamp (45mm), and it only weighs ~13 grams. My original was longer and heavier with the thought that it supports the steerer tube down below the upper headset bearing. It was originally designed to with the idea that the top cap would be left in place but I realized there was no point to that, especially if the top side could be cleaned up (like I did on the refined design).

[c60rider]

I've always cut mine a few mm short of the top of the stem so that the top cap sits flush and never had a problem until I started reading things on here but I still prefer it to look flush so what I think gives me more peace of mind is having a long expansion bung into the tube. The colnago one with my C60 was the longest I've ever seen and I've since bought 2 others to go in other frames. My really old Look frame I ended up cutting too much off, total schoolboy error, but because it was a 1 inch steerer and that wasn't compatible with the stem I put a Thomson alloy shim around it and that's had no problems for years.

[Dan Gerous]

Flush looks better but I keep it slightly longer now, about 10mm of spacers above the stem, it makes it easier to sell the bike later on, especially if you are slamming your stem or just using a lower position than the average cyclist, learnt from experience... and from a pro woman cyclist I rode with who had a skyscrapper of spacers. She was saying because of the lower salaries pro women earn (except the big stars), she add in her contracts that she was keeping the bikes after each season so she could make a bit of cash.

[ms6073]

I am using Cane Creek eeNut Expander and Top Cap with no spacers above Enve carbon road stems.

[wilwil]

Flush looks better but I keep it slightly longer now, about 10mm of spacers above the stem, it makes it easier to sell the bike later on, especially if you are slamming your stem or just using a lower position than the average cyclist, learnt from experience... and from a pro woman cyclist I rode with who had a skyscrapper of spacers. She was saying because of the lower salaries pro women earn (except the big stars), she add in her contracts that she was keeping the bikes after each season so she could make a bit of cash.

This. Flush or 3mm looks better but I dont plan to keep my bike for ever. Ive seen pro men with spacers above the stem too. You have to be pretty sure of your bike fit to go slammed and flush. I blame Frank Strack

[tepextate]

Hey guys,

Bumping this thread to avoid starting a new one.

I'm going to cut my steerer tube for the first time (carbon). I've bought a Park Tool Saw-8 to use as a guide. For the saw, can I get any old 32tpi hacksaw from Home Depot? Assume I don't need the fancy Park Tool hacksaw for this job.

Thanks!

[cloud9blue]

Would not recommend any toothed saw blade. They are pain in the ass to use on carbon parts and run the risk of pulling the fibers apart. Use an abrasive saw blade like the one park tool sells for carbon steerer tubes.


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[GS100]

My top cap sits directly on my stem..I don't see why you need the spacer above if you don't want to have it, other than for a bit of flexibility for later height adjustment maybe??

Obviously for the OP if you do this you need to cut the steerer so it's a couple of mm lower than the stem to allow it to pull down on it.

[GS100]

Oh and I've used a 32 tooth mini hacksaw too with no issues

Clearly im doing it all wrong lol