Cleaning up the Front End of a TCR Disc

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
amngwlvs
Posts: 137
Joined: Fri Apr 20, 2018 2:45 pm
Location: Barrie, Ontario

by amngwlvs

dricked wrote:
Thu Mar 28, 2019 11:08 pm
I used the bar end junction box ;)
Ok, I figured so. Is there a reason you ran the brake lines under the bar tape rather than internally on the bars?
Schadenfreude wrote:
Fri Mar 29, 2019 1:42 am
I did it all myself, with very little experience in working on a bike. I researched for weeks though. There's a Youtube channel called Ridess of Japan. The guy has a couple of series now about building up a di2 hydraulic bike. The scariest part is getting the BB out as it requires hitting a tool into the bracket with a plastic mallet. But yeah, this requires the removal tool and installation tool. You could ask a bike mechanic to remove the crankset and BB for you, do the wiring and then take it back for installation? At least you don't need to install the hyrdaulic lines.

Just while I remember, if you change the exit point of the di2 cable, then find something to plug up the current exit. You might have been given some spares when you bought the bike? Or check out giantspares.co.uk, or ask the dealer.
That's a bit of a vote of confidence. I'll have to check out that channel, sounds like it will offer some good insight. Worst case I take the bike to a shop and have them do the crank and BB work and I'll deal with the rest.

Thanks for that link! I"m sure that will prove useful, if not for this project down the road for sure!
TheRich wrote:
Fri Mar 29, 2019 2:53 am
I did the junction box under the out front mount, with double sided tape backed up by a zip tie, and it's flipped around with the wires facing backwards. From the rider's perspective with a GPS mounted, it's almost invisible...especially the zip tie, which is underneath the GPS because that's admittedly a little janky.

Electrical tape is easier than heat shrink and is virtually indistinguishable from more than a couple feet away.

It just depends on just how perfect you want it to look and how much trouble you want to go through.
Great call on flipping it backwards, thanks! Under the Garmin mount seems like an easy solution, especially if I buy one of the 3D printed Di2 holders designed to fit on the underside of a K-Edge combo mount. Seen here. Not the cheapest option I'm sure but certainly makes things easy. I'll agree on the electrical tape being easier that the heat shrink! Thanks again!
jlok wrote:
Fri Mar 29, 2019 3:48 am
I stuck the junction A under the arm of K-Edge mount, then the Di2 wire were bundled with brake hose by shrink wrap, went into the brake hose port together.
That combined with the answer above sounds like the perfect way to pull this off relatively easily. May just need a longer downtube wire to connect the two junction boxes. Anyone know how long that wire is on a TCR?

Thanks again everyone!
2018 Giant TCR Advanced Pro 0 Disc
2015 Giant Propel Advanced 2
2013 Trek 520

by Weenie


dricked
Posts: 184
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2018 1:57 pm

by dricked

I can’t remember if there was room? I’m not sure.

amngwlvs
Posts: 137
Joined: Fri Apr 20, 2018 2:45 pm
Location: Barrie, Ontario

by amngwlvs

dricked wrote:
Fri Mar 29, 2019 2:58 pm
I can’t remember if there was room? I’m not sure.
All good, I was just curious if that was the reason because I'm considering Pro bars as well. If there isn't room that may be a make or break. It will really just depend on what I decide on as a final solution.

edit: Upon further looking I don't even think that bar has the holes to run brake lines internally.
2018 Giant TCR Advanced Pro 0 Disc
2015 Giant Propel Advanced 2
2013 Trek 520

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