Dura-Ace R9200
Moderator: robbosmans
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It's just me I'll pick Dura-Ace Di2 12s over Red AXS anytime even it is heavier. SRAM feels plasticky.
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One of my requirements was to be able to use shimano rings in case shifting would be shit with the rotor ringsBigBoyND wrote: ↑Mon Jan 17, 2022 6:03 amWhat you're thinking of are the Quarq arms, which got heavier. They used to be as light as Red and are now Force equivalent. Or GXP which is heavier than DUB.wickedstealthy wrote: ↑Sun Jan 16, 2022 1:43 pmI'm not sure if that's correct. It seems that the older red/quark where lighter but the newer versions not. At least I didn't see a full setup with the latest red/quark weightedBigBoyND wrote: ↑Sun Jan 16, 2022 7:55 amWhat chain ring is that? And is that the weight with bolts?wickedstealthy wrote: ↑Sat Jan 15, 2022 3:02 pmWeight Dura ace 12s crank without powermeter vs rotor crank with power2max 4s-l powermeter
I was excited about Rotors carbon arms, but it's too bad their setup is still ~30g heavier than Red/Dzero. Wonder how light they could be if the axle was bonded on one side like most other brands.
Bonding is nice but not very modular so it's a trade off which I gladly accept as I can simply swap the crank arms as I'm experimenting with shorter arms anyway.
Thm arms are lighter but if I see weight limits on essential parts then I skip like crank arms then I skip.
The pictures shown are the rotor rings which are as light or lighter then the new carbon ti rings and weight includes the bolts too ( you don't see them on the picture)
I got the Red DUB arms and my set is 602g with Praxis rings. If your chainrings are as light as CarbonTi, then that means the crank arms are even heavier.
Otherwise some other options where open.
And idd the quark arms seem also to be lighter.
My main requirement was being able to use shimano rings in case of bad shifting, light as possible and my confidence in p2m pwm
Little difference overall. Not worth worrying about. Get what you prefer or is available. Though it seems Red AXS cassette even if you are getting DA other components is probably a good idea given the issues with the DA cassette.ichobi wrote: ↑Tue Jan 18, 2022 9:57 amSorry if this has been asked before,
Do we have a firm conclusion now which groupset is lighther - specifically,
The SRAM Red AXS with PM vs the 12spd Da Di2 with shimano owned PM?
I could see that since Red AXS crank with PM is quite lighter than DA chainset with PM, this makes them a bit equal in weight when include batteries and such.
Swapped back to the DA cassette since the 10-26 AXS cassette was old and it was certainly nosier than the DA. Would like to try this again with a brand new XG-1290, but I only have 10-33 new, and I don't like that range.
Anyway, to my delight, my over shifting issues have now gone when using the 9200 cassette... I think I know why too.
On inspection of another R9200 cassette next to mine, there's a tiny silver shim / spacer that is usually bonded to the back of the cassette, mine was nowhere to be seen.
I added one and installed the cassette, and now it's shifting perfectly, no jumps at all. However, I could make it jump if I adjusted the rear mech inboard.
When Shimano say "when chain is slightly touching upper cog, adjust mech outboard by 5 clicks and that's set", well, I found it to be more like 10-12 clicks to alleviate the jumping issue.
So, all who have this issue, check your cassette has the silver spacer on the back of it, and / or increased your rear mech adjustment from 5 to 10-ish clicks. Keeping adjusting outboard unti it stops over shifting.
Have faith!
Anyway, to my delight, my over shifting issues have now gone when using the 9200 cassette... I think I know why too.
On inspection of another R9200 cassette next to mine, there's a tiny silver shim / spacer that is usually bonded to the back of the cassette, mine was nowhere to be seen.
I added one and installed the cassette, and now it's shifting perfectly, no jumps at all. However, I could make it jump if I adjusted the rear mech inboard.
When Shimano say "when chain is slightly touching upper cog, adjust mech outboard by 5 clicks and that's set", well, I found it to be more like 10-12 clicks to alleviate the jumping issue.
So, all who have this issue, check your cassette has the silver spacer on the back of it, and / or increased your rear mech adjustment from 5 to 10-ish clicks. Keeping adjusting outboard unti it stops over shifting.
Have faith!
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To anyone who has used sram axs before with the orbit dampener at the rear mech. How does the new DA compared in terms of chainslapping, chain extreme movement over bumps and bad roads? One of the thing I like for the AXS stuff is the chain never ever slaps. It's a tiny quirk I know but I haven't used Dura-Ace since the 9000 series.
Yep, that's the badger.
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Ryan i have 10/28 used for 30 miles xg1290 using a sram chain and super silent would you do a swap?i only bought it last weekryanw wrote: ↑Tue Jan 18, 2022 5:02 pmSwapped back to the DA cassette since the 10-26 AXS cassette was old and it was certainly nosier than the DA. Would like to try this again with a brand new XG-1290, but I only have 10-33 new, and I don't like that range.
Anyway, to my delight, my over shifting issues have now gone when using the 9200 cassette... I think I know why too.
On inspection of another R9200 cassette next to mine, there's a tiny silver shim / spacer that is usually bonded to the back of the cassette, mine was nowhere to be seen.
I added one and installed the cassette, and now it's shifting perfectly, no jumps at all. However, I could make it jump if I adjusted the rear mech inboard.
When Shimano say "when chain is slightly touching upper cog, adjust mech outboard by 5 clicks and that's set", well, I found it to be more like 10-12 clicks to alleviate the jumping issue.
So, all who have this issue, check your cassette has the silver spacer on the back of it, and / or increased your rear mech adjustment from 5 to 10-ish clicks. Keeping adjusting outboard unti it stops over shifting.
Have faith!
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Hey Ryan! Glad you found the culprit! Did you use a 0.2mm spacer behind the cassette? Now I am going to check my 3 and see if it is there! I am glad I am not the only one who noticed it required more than 5 clicks to get adjusted, and I don't have to question my hearing loss at the ripe age of 39.
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hmmmm interesting, i was about to swap over to the XG1290 (i have both the 10-28 and 10-33) to test out.
I was using a new XTR/DA chain on 4,000km old XG-1290 cassette, so my scenario is probably quite different to a new / new setup.
The gears worked perfeclty, but they was some hesitation nearer the larger cogs (which were the most used on the cassette). If someone normal (not OCD AF) got on the bike, they would most likely think it's perfect.
Just because I've swapped back, don't think it's a bad thing. I've always used SRAM cassettes on my Shimano bikes. I just wanted to solve this problem and get it working right. That and also needing a lower gear than 36/26 since I'm completely out of shape ATM...
The gears worked perfeclty, but they was some hesitation nearer the larger cogs (which were the most used on the cassette). If someone normal (not OCD AF) got on the bike, they would most likely think it's perfect.
Just because I've swapped back, don't think it's a bad thing. I've always used SRAM cassettes on my Shimano bikes. I just wanted to solve this problem and get it working right. That and also needing a lower gear than 36/26 since I'm completely out of shape ATM...
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Gents, quick question - I have a pair of Shimano Duraace C50 12 speed wheels that came along with my Pinarello that I am thinking of moving to my Colnago which has a Shimano Duraace 11 speed groupset installed currently. Not sure if this has been raised before but wondering if it's possible?
I'm aware that you can install a 12-speed cassette on an 11-speed hub but not sure if the above is possible.
I'm aware that you can install a 12-speed cassette on an 11-speed hub but not sure if the above is possible.
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