Dura-Ace R9200

[justonwo]

Just did a quick 5 mile test ride. All smooth and noise free so far. The shift quality is excellent in the rear. Decent in the front. Perhaps it will be better with 9200 chainrings. It's a minor niggle, though. It gets the job done without dropping the chain.

[cat4forlife]

I have 58-cm Venge Pro with a Quarq DFour91 power meter (Dura-Ace 9100 52/36T chainrings). I do experience chain drop on the inside occasionally when shifting to the small ring. When that happens, the chain falls into the gap between the frame and the small ring. I added a chain catcher to the FD hoping to prevent the chain from dropping inside but all that chain catcher did was to make it harder for me to pull the chain out of the gap after a dropped chain.

The same chain drop also happened when the bike had the 11-speed Ultegra Di2 groupset. I suspect my issue has more to do with the semi-synchro shift mode that i have been using: when i shift to the small ring, the RD automatically shifts two cogs.

[Hexsense]

All chain catchers aren't created equal.
I found Sram chain catcher to bend in and let the chain drop but don't allow it to get out.

My K-edge never fail its job that way.

[cat4forlife]

All chain catchers aren't created equal.
I found Sram chain catcher to bend in and let the chain drop but don't allow it to get out.

My K-edge never fail its job that way.

This is the weight weenies forum after all and naturally i picked a lightweight (carbon fiber) chain catcher over the more sturdy K-Edge chain catcher

[kode54]

Sir, do worry as I feel I just wasted 15,000 USD to be underated by a 5400$ problematic driveline... So what is the redesigned tab, is it the Y3GK98040 part?

Shimano refers to the tab as the chain guard. The chain guard is part of the outer plate of the rear derailleur cage. In the redesigned outer plate, which uses the same part number Y3GK98040 as the one with the original design, the chain guard tapers off toward the bottom. I drew the outline of the redesigned chain guard in the photo below. In theory, by trimming that part of the chain guard off, it is less likely for the chain to strike the chain guard.

Screen Shot 2022-09-13 at 17.42.19.png

That's same shape I filed down the tab on my RD. It is working so far

I have a Kogel 12T upper and 14T lower and clears the tab...probably due to the larger lower pulley moves it away from the tab. I can see that the chain would hit the tab due to a smaller diameter lower pulley.

[justonwo]

Just ordered a set of 9200 chainrings, which should arrive right around the time that my SRM power cranks arrive. Once the cranks and new chainrings are installed, I'll be off to the races!

[Belisarius]

I have 58-cm Venge Pro with a Quarq DFour91 power meter (Dura-Ace 9100 52/36T chainrings). I do experience chain drop on the inside occasionally when shifting to the small ring. When that happens, the chain falls into the gap between the frame and the small ring. I added a chain catcher to the FD hoping to prevent the chain from dropping inside but all that chain catcher did was to make it harder for me to pull the chain out of the gap after a dropped chain.

The same chain drop also happened when the bike had the 11-speed Ultegra Di2 groupset. I suspect my issue has more to do with the semi-synchro shift mode that i have been using: when i shift to the small ring, the RD automatically shifts two cogs.

Will help you fix that, as it should never happen. First, the issue is created by the sequnce you identify, but is not the root cause. The root cause is mose likely B- inner plate limit above 0.5mm, and A, WORN 36. Disclaimer- I have a 9270 52/36 and I cannot use the 36, I mill 36/13 and am begging for a 40 backorder becoming available, On 39t, the few times I had inner chain drops were indeed inner plate limit OR worn 39. took me a few events (and going uphill 53 to 39 and chain dropping is brutal), to realize that WORN 39T was the culprit. For me, no doubt, 15,000 kms is the absolute MAX 39, and I swap. Like magic, drops are gone... What happends is that as the 36 or 39 wear out, the teeths dull, loose height and thickness, and the chain bounces (vibration, translation, rotation) and falls off. So that 0.5mm changes and increases with.... chainring wear. To be on the safe side, I kept the limit near 0.25mm and on the 26-28t it almost rubs the plate, uphill, stops, who cares, never drops. readjusting the LIMIT will not alter the ring's inability to grab the chain...

As you can deduce, eventually had my first two 53 outer drops; checked my yearly logs (a must to prevent issues) and the 53s had gone over 7,000 kms. Swapped the 53 (these days cheaper to buy a new crankset) and ZERO DROPS. So why would the 53t wear out in less mileage? Because the actuation force throwing the chain over the 52 or 53 is brutal, and the chain grinds at it each time going over. Today, on a DI2, 9270, 36 to 52 (PLSE give me the 40), in slow motion, on the stand, the chain jams between the 36 and 52, is stuck, and the FD DI actuator forces it over the teeth in a brutally abrasive fashion...

In contrast, 52 to 36 is a drop, less brutal, but you do so many more RPM that it wears faster by sheer ratio of time spent in it....

At 23,000 kms 9000-9100, realized that both cases, crank and spindle had softened, ever so slight flex felt at torque. Swapped crank and speed went up, it literally felt as if my bike got a new BB.... Yes, a la PeakTorque/Hambini checked for delamination, none of it, no cracks.... But for me, at 75-80kg rider, high cadence, torque it means:

1. Swap small chainring as early as possible (10,000 kms small ring mileage)
2. Swap the large ring at 5,000 -7,000 kms or
3- Swap crankset approaching 20,000 kms (sorry but your PM garbages accuracy badly as materials fatigue)

Like a worn transmission gear or clutch plate, these parts have a finite lifecycle. But if you want to improve the lot, on 9100 system use the Campy Record 11 chain, and you will thank me for years to come.... That thing locks and loads, is thinner, superior alloys, bounces less etc.

Call Shimano, once they soothe their paranoia that you are not a journalist, they will tell you that parts have a very finite lifecycle, riding style, cleanliness etc all affecting longevity...

Final tidbit- material quality matters. Present Shimano DA chains are improved metallurgically from 9000 (perhaps closer to SRAM or Campy), and will correspondingly wear out soft Shimano alloys. So a Campy Record 11 chain, 3200 km nirvana per chain, will chew a Shimano 9000/9100 cassette but not a SRAM XG90 nor a Campy cassette (hard on hard alloys). Presently, 12 speed, I am not yet willing to experiment, but presume that a 9200 DA chain will chew much faster any prev gen Shimano cassette or 9100 crankset, and fast pronto badly so. Therefore, be prepared to anticipate a rapid wear of rotational components, and it is the cost of high level performance... But 20,000 kms, yes, it means that Pros using 4 bikes and 30,000 kms per year need a new crankset every 14-16 months or new rings at the very least on each bike... But, oh well, that's why they are sponsored, right?

[Hexsense]

Something sound strange.
You said you can't use 36t. But you put a lot more time in small ring than big ring?

That's complete opposite of how I use the gear. I reduce my chain ring size until I can ride 90% of the time in big ring. Small ring is only there for actual climbing that 50t front 30t rear isn't enough. 34t front ring is only used with 5 top cogs in the back. It never get close to 13t that you said have a problem. If I need that ratio, I'd already be in big ring.
So, my small ring last forever. Big ring also last long because I rarely have to do the front shift, much less front shift than traditional combo that people consistently swap between big and small ring all the time.

PS. I shift this way because it's simply the more efficient on the drivetrain. Small ring should never be used past 7 top cogs on the cassette as the friction is higher than the equivalent gear in big ring.

[cat4forlife]

PS. I shift this way because it's simply the more efficient on the drivetrain. Small ring should never be used past 7 top cogs on the cassette as the friction is higher than the equivalent gear in big ring.
1x-vs-2x-Drivetrain-Efficiency-Chart.jpeg

Is the increase in friction due to cross-chaining?

[Hexsense]

Chain misalignment and chain articulation.

Chain misalignment:
Essentially, cross chain is bad.

Chain articulation:
Big ring+ Big cog is better than small+small because the chain bend less steep and the load is spread across more cogs at a better angle.

Together, Big ring is more efficient in most gears, except extreme cross chaining.

[justonwo]

First long ride today on 9200. Excellent shift performance. Very quiet. No issues at all. The braking modulation has definitely been improved from 9100. The groupset is exactly what I had hoped. I'm just waiting on a new crankset and my 9200 chainrings at this point.

[NiFTY]

Something sound strange.
You said you can't use 36t. But you put a lot more time in small ring than big ring?

That's complete opposite of how I use the gear. I reduce my chain ring size until I can ride 90% of the time in big ring. Small ring is only there for actual climbing that 50t front 30t rear isn't enough. 34t front ring is only used with 5 top cogs in the back. It never get close to 13t that you said have a problem. If I need that ratio, I'd already be in big ring.
So, my small ring last forever. Big ring also last long because I rarely have to do the front shift, much less front shift than traditional combo that people consistently swap between big and small ring all the time.

Yep. Agree 100%. Big ring everywhere unless very steep or sustained climb. I run 53/39 and 11/30. I was living in berkshire england the last year and could go weeks without changing front rings.

[Scarpa]

I have a Problem with Easton EC90 50/34 Crank and 9200 Di2 Dura Ace front derrailleur.
Shifting is fine but when i shift up to 50T the Di2 front derrailleur gets automaticly a bit down so the outside gets light in contact with the chain at the highest gears.
Does someone has a solution for this? Or is this a general problem with the chainline of the EC90.

[cat4forlife]

I have a Problem with Easton EC90 50/34 Crank and 9200 Di2 Dura Ace front derrailleur.
Shifting is fine but when i shift up to 50T the Di2 front derrailleur gets automaticly a bit down so the outside gets light in contact with the chain at the highest gears.
Does someone has a solution for this? Or is this a general problem with the chainline of the EC90.

Have you adjusted the FD using the guided process in the e-tube app?

[Scarpa]

I have a Problem with Easton EC90 50/34 Crank and 9200 Di2 Dura Ace front derrailleur.
Shifting is fine but when i shift up to 50T the Di2 front derrailleur gets automaticly a bit down so the outside gets light in contact with the chain at the highest gears.
Does someone has a solution for this? Or is this a general problem with the chainline of the EC90.

Have you adjusted the FD using the guided process in the e-tube app?

Yes but front plate still is touching light the chain at the highest gears. I think this is also a problem with the chainline from easton, with the Shimano crank all is fine.