Dura-Ace R9200
Moderator: robbosmans
Anyone found the new 8170 groupset in Canada yet? Looks like most of the retailers had some initial stocks, but everything is now OoS with no possibility to reserve. I know of Texas Cycle Sport that takes pre-orders, but they don't ship to Canada...
Another (bad) option would be to buy a complete bike like the TCR Adv Pro 0, take the groupset and sell the rest ($6800 - frameset - wheels - cockpit...) It wouldn't be cheaper, but it might be easier to get your hand on a full bike than the groupset...
The last option would be to go with the 11 speed groupset and swap out the calipers like some did here already. Finding the calipers is an issue in itself as retailers like Texas Cycle Sport shows availability in December only (versus July for full groupset)...
What am I missing?
Another (bad) option would be to buy a complete bike like the TCR Adv Pro 0, take the groupset and sell the rest ($6800 - frameset - wheels - cockpit...) It wouldn't be cheaper, but it might be easier to get your hand on a full bike than the groupset...
The last option would be to go with the 11 speed groupset and swap out the calipers like some did here already. Finding the calipers is an issue in itself as retailers like Texas Cycle Sport shows availability in December only (versus July for full groupset)...
What am I missing?
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slake21 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 24, 2022 4:11 pmtell your friend it's time to clean that frame, lolome rodriguez wrote: ↑Mon Jan 24, 2022 2:59 pmMy friend replaced his sram red axs and is very happy.
https://i.ibb.co/bmqNcDb/0-BDDAFDA-BB30 ... 0-ADF4.jpg
Not a fan of trek project one too, but looks better than the plasticky sram red axs groupset.
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Sorry about that. Our holidays extend up to chinese new year.
Cool P1 and great component choice
Check out my post about $/g earlier.snaxez wrote: ↑Mon Jan 24, 2022 10:42 amAre there any other benefits to 9250 besides weight when comparing with 8150? (levers/brakes, FD and RD)
Are shifters different?
I am on abit of a budget at the moment, but I don`t want to start thinking of an upgrade from 8150 to 9250 later on.
Would it be a good idea to do DA levers and calipers with Ultegra FD and RD?
The best value is to use Ultegra FD and RD. Then levers. Use DA cassette and calipers. Price will be close to full Ultegra and weight close to full DA. This is the path I'm taking. DA levers and derailleurs you're in the range of $10/g which is insane.
Note: I ignored cranks and rotors since you shouldn't run shimano for those anyway if you care about weight. I'm going with Red/Quarq/Praxis for crankset and Galfer for rotors.
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those with the overshift issue, could you kindly try out with the reverse of Shimano's recommendation?
Instead of having it rub on the 4th cog, let it rub on the 6th cog and then 5 clicks away from it...
I've ended up having to use this method because the spacing seems to be way off on the Carbon-Ti hubs + Ostro dropout.
It seems like the new 12 speed has some weird spacing issues with the frames, cranks and hubs.
Instead of having it rub on the 4th cog, let it rub on the 6th cog and then 5 clicks away from it...
I've ended up having to use this method because the spacing seems to be way off on the Carbon-Ti hubs + Ostro dropout.
It seems like the new 12 speed has some weird spacing issues with the frames, cranks and hubs.
What are some of the good ideas for reducing weight for this group?
I find the crank weight hard to take. The red axs quarq is like 575g with ring. Trying to make da crank and rings with power to hit that weight gonna cost arms and legs.
One option might be find decently light crankset and use it with the wahoo spdplay power meter which is still not on market.
Rotor is easy. Many after market option.
Not much else to change i guess?
I find the crank weight hard to take. The red axs quarq is like 575g with ring. Trying to make da crank and rings with power to hit that weight gonna cost arms and legs.
One option might be find decently light crankset and use it with the wahoo spdplay power meter which is still not on market.
Rotor is easy. Many after market option.
Not much else to change i guess?
The price of running DA cassettes does go up over time though, so it might be better to use that if you have raceday only wheels. Every day use might get more expensive than other parts you mention in the long runBigBoyND wrote: ↑Tue Jan 25, 2022 9:13 amCheck out my post about $/g earlier.snaxez wrote: ↑Mon Jan 24, 2022 10:42 amAre there any other benefits to 9250 besides weight when comparing with 8150? (levers/brakes, FD and RD)
Are shifters different?
I am on abit of a budget at the moment, but I don`t want to start thinking of an upgrade from 8150 to 9250 later on.
Would it be a good idea to do DA levers and calipers with Ultegra FD and RD?
The best value is to use Ultegra FD and RD. Then levers. Use DA cassette and calipers. Price will be close to full Ultegra and weight close to full DA. This is the path I'm taking. DA levers and derailleurs you're in the range of $10/g which is insane.
Note: I ignored cranks and rotors since you shouldn't run shimano for those anyway if you care about weight. I'm going with Red/Quarq/Praxis for crankset and Galfer for rotors.
You'd have to go through 3 cassettes before the $/g matches the lever upgrade. I'd venture that most people buying dura ace level bikes don't go through 3 cassettes before getting their next bike.
Note: emphasis on "most," but obviously anecdotal mileage may vary. I've never worn out 3 cassettes on a single bike
Note: emphasis on "most," but obviously anecdotal mileage may vary. I've never worn out 3 cassettes on a single bike
Again: red arms + quarq + chainring of preference (Praxis, Rotor, Carbon-Ti, Extralite) is the way to go for weight.ichobi wrote: ↑Wed Jan 26, 2022 8:45 amWhat are some of the good ideas for reducing weight for this group?
I find the crank weight hard to take. The red axs quarq is like 575g with ring. Trying to make da crank and rings with power to hit that weight gonna cost arms and legs.
One option might be find decently light crankset and use it with the wahoo spdplay power meter which is still not on market.
Rotor is easy. Many after market option.
Not much else to change i guess?
Also, unlikely the Wahoo will be cheaper than Assioma, and both are heavier than a spider PM matched with a light non-power pedal.
I was having the issue and used @ryan's recommendation of 10 clicks insead of the 5 and after one ride seams to take care of the issue. It could me, but 9200 seams to be more senstive to the b-screw adjustment and maybe one reason they provide a guide (Dont recall seeing one for 9100).MagicShite wrote: ↑Wed Jan 26, 2022 6:04 amthose with the overshift issue, could you kindly try out with the reverse of Shimano's recommendation?
Instead of having it rub on the 4th cog, let it rub on the 6th cog and then 5 clicks away from it...
I've ended up having to use this method because the spacing seems to be way off on the Carbon-Ti hubs + Ostro dropout.
It seems like the new 12 speed has some weird spacing issues with the frames, cranks and hubs.
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