Dura-Ace R9200

[cleanneon98]

Are GRX Di2 levers compatible with road brakes and all?

[LanceLegstrong]

Are GRX Di2 levers compatible with road brakes and all?

Yes

[Lelandjt]

Are GRX Di2 levers compatible with road brakes and all?

Every Shimano lever is compatible with every shimano caliper. Handy for tandem road riders who want to use DH calipers.

[joss]

What would be a good quality 1x chainring for the Dura Ace crank?
Round and not oval!

Alternatively: What would be a good crank with 1x chainring (not Sram!)

[Lelandjt]

Alternatively: What would be a good crank with 1x chainring (not Sram!)

Easton. It's basically a Raceface and I have a lot of experience with those on MTBs.

[jih]

I searched far and wide for a 12 speed HG cassette larger than 34t. Only thing I could find was the 105 11-36t or the Rotor 11-36t or 11-39t. Even the Chinese brands haven't produced them yet.

Here you go:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/32568070 ... ry_from%3A

There's also the (very expensive) Ingrid 11-44:

https://ingrid.bike/product/cassette-12s-44t11/

Struggling to see who/what this cassette is for. WIth an 11t small sprocket you'll need at least a 50t front ring on road to get a road-like high gear, but then 50x44 isn't a low enough low gear to justify such a huge cassette. What style of riding is it for and why?

Meanwhile, you can have 52/36 x 11-34 with a good high gear, and a low gear of almost 1:1.

[Lelandjt]

I searched far and wide for a 12 speed HG cassette larger than 34t. Only thing I could find was the 105 11-36t or the Rotor 11-36t or 11-39t. Even the Chinese brands haven't produced them yet.

Here you go:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/32568070 ... ry_from%3A

There's also the (very expensive) Ingrid 11-44:

https://ingrid.bike/product/cassette-12s-44t11/

Struggling to see who/what this cassette is for. WIth an 11t small sprocket you'll need at least a 50t front ring on road to get a road-like high gear, but then 50x44 isn't a low enough low gear to justify such a huge cassette. What style of riding is it for and why?

Meanwhile, you can have 52/36 x 11-34 with a good high gear, and a low gear of almost 1:1.

The gearing spread of the 11-44 is a little more than a 53/39 11-28. That used to be a very common gearing to use so this could be the 1x version of that.

[satanas]

My personal opinion is that the Ingrid cassette is about the widest possible before the gaps go to hell; I could see using it for bikepacking or touring with appropriately sized 2x chainrings. Anyway, the question before was did such things exist, not what are they for...

[iamraymond]

Struggling to see who/what this cassette is for.

The rationale for smaller gearing was a page back where I was reponding to lower gearing - see below.

FWIW, this setup with a 33t+36t easy gear was very helpful on that 200km/7000m event. I've switched back to 50/34 + 11-34 setup for my normal riding as I don't need such an easy gear anymore, but there are definitely use cases for it.

I'm using the 48/33t Stone chainring but in the 5x110 variant. I paired it with a 11-36t cassette. I'm using this combo in preparation for an event with 6800m climbing to give my legs a super easy gear to spin on. Compared to my previous 50/34 + 11-34 combo, my cadence is noticeably quicker and I can keep my power lower while climbing at 12-15% without grinding at 40rpm. Not only that but the 33+32 combo is almost the same as my previous 34+34 and I still have a bail out gear at 33+36. I do find myself shifting the rear a lot more and I can stay in the 48T longer. But on flat and downhills, I'm almost always on the smaller cogs in rear which isn't so efficient.

Shifting is not as crisp at the front compared to my Praxis chainrings but it works fine. I do miss the ultra smooth rear shifting of the DA 11-34 cassette. Also the Stone rings are a bit louder as well.

[DeathClassic]

Looking for some opinions. Having some troubles with the front braking. Recently I've been having the levers slowly pull down to the bars on a stop. The levers maintian a certain amount of resistance until they hit the bars. I first thought that it might be in need of a re-bleed. Did that and ensured that there was no air in the system at all (doing both the 'traditional' method and using a syringe to reverse bleed from the caliper.

The issue isn't very consistent. Sometimes the brakes work well, and then other times they will bite and then start to pull down. Once they want to pull down they will do that until I fully pull them to the bars. This then gives me no braking at all until it 'recharges' and then braking is normal again.

The pads and rotor are new. There aren't any leaks from the hoses or the shifter/caliper. I've done maybe 8000km on this setup and has only started to show this behaviour.

I'm guessing it's to do with the diaphram - but would this be the case since it's inconsistent? Thought the issues with the diaphram were also solved with the 9270 brakes.

[Lelandjt]

Sounds like a bad master cylinder.

[robbosmans]

A pinched hose probably

[DeathClassic]

Nealy gave up on it so decided to try everything - tightening the hose to caliper/shifter, freeing up/cleaning the pistons, bleeding the hell out of it again. Took it for an hours ride and... no failure anymore. I have a new right hand shifter coming still just in case but that's good news. One note is that the left hand piston was able to move heaps, while the right hand side barely moved at all. Whether or not that's a coincidence, not sure. But a point nonetheless.

[ooo]

Shimano updated both 11-30T and 11-34T Dura-Ace CS-R9200 cassettes with new sprockets:
CS-R9200-4808/EV-CS-R9200-4808A.pdf

Code: Select all

 2021-09  >  2024-09  ~ 11-30T, 11-34T:
Y0MV11000 = Y0MV11000 ~ 11T
Y0MV12000 > Y0UJ9801T ~ 12T
Y0MV13000 = Y0MV13000 ~ 13T
Y0MV14000 = Y0MV14000 ~ 14T
Y0MV15000 > Y0MV9801T ~ 15T
Y0MV16100 = Y0MV16100 ~ 16T (11-30T)
two sprockets marked as new and have new part numbers

Code: Select all

 2021-09  >  2024-09  ~ 11-30T:
Y0MV98020 ≥ Y0MV98020 ~ 17-19T (11-30T)
Y0MV98030 = Y0MV98030 ~ 21-24-27-30T (11-30T)
first part marked as new, but it have an old part number, not sure if it was updated

Code: Select all

 2021-09  >  2024-09  ~ 11-34T:
Y0MV98040 ≥ Y0MV98040 ~ 17-19T (11-34T)
Y0MV98050 ≥ Y0MV98050 ~ 21-24-27-30-34T (11-34T)
two parts marked as new, both parts have an old part numbers, not sure if they was updated

[Torbjorn]

I wonder if this is to fix the problem some have (like me) with a ticking on certain cogs caused by the chain catching on protrusions on one or two teeth.