Dura-Ace R9200

[stevec1975]

eTube app, forgetting micro adjustment setting on the Front Derailleur?

Hey all, anyone notice that when you connect your bike to eTube and go to "Maintenance section" that the rear derailleur will show the Micro adjustment setting "previously" applied but the Front derailleur will be 0?

Its not a big issue, because the setting is applied to the system, however the app is either not reading it back once you set it or it forgets..

Seems like a software bug they may want to address

Not seeing that in my app, I have rear mech as 0 and front as -6 and it has been that way since I dialled it in.

[gSporco]

eTube app, forgetting micro adjustment setting on the Front Derailleur?

Hey all, anyone notice that when you connect your bike to eTube and go to "Maintenance section" that the rear derailleur will show the Micro adjustment setting "previously" applied but the Front derailleur will be 0?

Its not a big issue, because the setting is applied to the system, however the app is either not reading it back once you set it or it forgets..

Seems like a software bug they may want to address

Not seeing that in my app, I have rear mech as 0 and front as -6 and it has been that way since I dialled it in.

Interesting.. Are you runniing the latest eTube App update?

I think mine started doing this a week or 2 ago when I updated the app on iOS.. Luckily the system (on bike) keeps the setting.. its just the app can see what the microadjust setting is on the bike when paired..

[andreas]

I recently got my first 12 speed bike, an Aethos with the Shimano Ultegra Di2 RD-8150. The bike originally had some issues with the rear derailleur touching the spokes when at the largest cog and smallest chainring, LBS claimed it was due to a bent hanger and corrected it.

Now it's working ok-ish, but every now and then I get a random "phantom shift" on the rear out of nowhere, usually the first time applying some load/watts on a ride.
I've adjusted the indexing according to the shimano manuals.

Also, when I backpedal the chain in the mechanics stand, with the chain on the 12th/smallest cog in the rear and small chainring at the front, about every 10th link or so catches a tooth on the 11th cog and gets lifted up. Not a problem in itself, but I'm worried it will cause the chain to jump of the upper pulley wheel at some point while track standing at an intersection or backpedaling to prepare for a turn downhill or similar.

When I inspect the upper pulley wheel, it has scratch marks on the side, suggesting some kind of damage.

So the question; is it normal that you can no longer backpedal chains at extreme cross-gearing when moving to 12 speed? Or is it an indication of a misaligned chainline on the bike? This is no issue for my 11 speed setups (different bikes).

I have similar issues with my Sworks Aethos! Some clicking noise in the 5th and 9th gear when pedaling! When I'm back pedaling in the working stand the chain catches about every 10th link or so the upper cog! Indexing the rear derailleur does not solve the problem - the rear derailleur hanger is aligned correct. I tried another chain, another cassette, another rear derailleur hanger and I played with the chainline of the cranks with shims - nothing helped. It seems that the cassette sits a few millimeters too close to the chainstay side - eventually the adhesive ring at the backside of the cassette causes this problem. Today I will assemble the cassette without this ring....I hope this is the solution! Otherwise I'm clueless...

My setup:
Sworks Aethos Frame
Zipp 303s wheelset with Shimano freehub Body
Quarq dub dfour crank with Shimano dura ace 12s chainring 50/34
Ultegra 12s 11-34 cassette
Ultegra 12s shifters and disc brakes
Ultegra 12s rear & front derailleur
Ultegra 12s chain

I consulted 3 LBS'es, where 2 said this is normal and 1 said it is not normal and could be a sign of a cassette with a production error (which I'm not inclined to believe). To me it looks like it's the single shallow profile teeth on the smallest 3 cogs that contribute the most, in addition to a very crossed chainline ofc.

However, I'm wondering - the adhesive ring, is it a rubber ring on the road cassettes? I can only see a metal ring on the back of my cassette. I replaced the rear derailleur hanger, and re-indexed, and the derailleur was back to touching the spokes of the wheel again. I had to move indexing 3 clicks beyond optimal in order to avoid this issue, which leaves me wondering whether I have that adhesive spacer (but I guess that would only cause even more chainline issues if I need to add one).

Edit - Extra question: I went ahead and did the full route of aliging the hanger, adjusting B-limit (which it turned out was way off from the store according to the shimano spec, it howered at around 8mm instead of 14mm on a 11-30 cassette), re-indexing and then I came to the low limit adjustment. As mentioned, when perfectly indexed the derailleur cage touched the spokes (with a too slack B-tension) and is very close to touching them with a correct B-tension. The Shimano manual states:

Tighten the low limit screw until it just touches the low limit stopper

When looking at various youtube mechanics guides for Di2 setup, what they instead do is simply to align the derailleur with the cog. Which in my case means adjusting it a lot more than "until it just touches". While it feels safer adjusting it by aligning with the cog, I had a first-gen (6770) Di2 system where this would cause battery drain due to the motor being continuously activated when on the largest cog.
The shimano manual mentions overshifting on the smallest cog, and advises to back off 1 turn on the high limit screw, but nothing similar on the low limit. I guess it doesn't overshift on the largest cog?
So the question; is it ok/correct to adjust the low limit so that the derailleur lines up with the cog, or will that drain the battery/cause motor damage?

[pmprego]

I broke my sram etap 11spd groupset. Trying to salvage the summer, I anticipated my planned purchase of ultegra 12spd di2.

Trying to reduce the financial impact of this, I was trying to use the most components possible from that sram gruppo (even if I don't get full performance now - it would be a temporarily solution).

In that sense, i was considering something that you might say it's stupid. If it is, please excuse me in advance.

Would it be possible to use my sram red crankset + sram red cassette + 11spd chain with the shimano 12spd shifters and derailleurs?

A different way to put it would be: is it possible to "temporarily disable" one shift from the rear derailleur?

Thanks for the help. Seriously, every time I ask "weird" stuff to bike shops around here I get an: "that's not the oficial brand solution".

[gSporco]

I broke my sram etap 11spd groupset. Trying to salvage the summer, I anticipated my planned purchase of ultegra 12spd di2.

Trying to reduce the financial impact of this, I was trying to use the most components possible from that sram gruppo (even if I don't get full performance now - it would be a temporarily solution).

In that sense, i was considering something that you might say it's stupid. If it is, please excuse me in advance.

Would it be possible to use my sram red crankset + sram red cassette + 11spd chain with the shimano 12spd shifters and derailleurs?

A different way to put it would be: is it possible to "temporarily disable" one shift from the rear derailleur?

Thanks for the help. Seriously, every time I ask "weird" stuff to bike shops around here I get an: "that's not the oficial brand solution".

No unfortunetly the only thing you "may" get away with would be using the crankset only.. Definetly not the chain or 11sp cassette..

IMHO, the best approach to getting you on the road ASAP would be to source some Ultegra Di2, Shifters, Derrailleurs, battery wires and junction boxes.. Then you could use the Chain and Cassette you already have.. SAve some extra money and buy 6000 series componenets as well..

[pmprego]

I broke my sram etap 11spd groupset. Trying to salvage the summer, I anticipated my planned purchase of ultegra 12spd di2.

Trying to reduce the financial impact of this, I was trying to use the most components possible from that sram gruppo (even if I don't get full performance now - it would be a temporarily solution).

In that sense, i was considering something that you might say it's stupid. If it is, please excuse me in advance.

Would it be possible to use my sram red crankset + sram red cassette + 11spd chain with the shimano 12spd shifters and derailleurs?

A different way to put it would be: is it possible to "temporarily disable" one shift from the rear derailleur?

Thanks for the help. Seriously, every time I ask "weird" stuff to bike shops around here I get an: "that's not the oficial brand solution".

No unfortunetly the only thing you "may" get away with would be using the crankset only.. Definetly not the chain or 11sp cassette..

IMHO, the best approach to getting you on the road ASAP would be to source some Ultegra Di2, Shifters, Derrailleurs, battery wires and junction boxes.. Then you could use the Chain and Cassette you already have.. SAve some extra money and buy 6000 series componenets as well..

It was easier to source the new 12spd ultegra di2 then anything else. I was just trying to use some of the material that is rather new and now put away in my garage...

[gruppetto]

Is anyone using the Ultegra front derailleur with a 54t chainring?
I have the deraileur mounted on the upper limit of the front deraileur mount, but the chainrings teeth are still super close to the lower part of the deraileurs plate and rub on the plate wile sprinting in the smallest gears.

[milanv]

Is anyone using the Ultegra front derailleur with a 54t chainring?
I have the deraileur mounted on the upper limit of the front deraileur mount, but the chainrings teeth are still super close to the lower part of the deraileurs plate and rub on the plate wile sprinting in the smallest gears.

And use any shim under the FD, e. g. from Rotor?

[gruppetto]

Is anyone using the Ultegra front derailleur with a 54t chainring?
I have the deraileur mounted on the upper limit of the front deraileur mount, but the chainrings teeth are still super close to the lower part of the deraileurs plate and rub on the plate wile sprinting in the smallest gears.

And use any shim under the FD, e. g. from Rotor?

This would be a possibility. However the FD-8150 is supposed to support 54t chainrings without any modifications, according to Shimano.

[ghostinthemachine]

The mech might, your frame might not.

[ryanw]

Running 54T on 56cm SL7, no issues at all.

[gruppetto]

The mech might, your frame might not.

Ran up to 55t on the bike (Venge) with the "old" 11 DA front deraileuer.

Running 54T on 56cm SL7, no issues at all.

Thanks, I will fiddle around a little more than.

[ghostinthemachine]

Ran up to 55t on the bike (Venge) with the "old" 11 DA front deraileuer.

Just needs more fiddlin then...

I only say this as when i swapped between a 10 and 11 speed shimano groupset the front mech was very fractionally deeper, so the cage sat slightly lower than the previous mech. So the oval ring i'd been using for a year or so, that was pretty marginal, had to go. Either that or add an adaptor to push the mech back. (Round rings for now though)

[ipenguinking]

The 5th gear on my bike's 11-30t started making weird clicking noise when under load but quiet on repair stand, with front in either small or big ring. All other gears are absolutely quiet. So far I've tried to re-index the RD but the noise is still there. Do you think the next step is to check the alignment of the rear hanger?

[m3bas]

The 5th gear on my bike's 11-30t started making weird clicking noise when under load but quiet on repair stand, with front in either small or big ring. All other gears are absolutely quiet. So far I've tried to re-index the RD but the noise is still there. Do you think the next step is to check the alignment of the rear hanger?

Mine is doing same but in 4th from top i think. Shifts prefectly so don't want to adjust RD too much for fear of wrecking shifting in other gears or starting a noise in another cog. I have a direct mount hanger so doubt it could have bent from normal use.