Dura-Ace R9200
Moderator: robbosmans
Leakage = I'd bet a loooooooot of money that it's overcranking the bolt that goes into the caliper. I've cracked stuff and lead to leaking once before. Never again after that. Learned my lesson.
Current bikes: '24 S-Works Tarmac SL8, '24 Specialized Allez Sprint
Disgusting list of bikes owned
Disgusting list of bikes owned
I bought the rear caliper used. Could actually be the case. So I'd probably have to replace it right ?
(Maybe the previous user has used the wrong bolt length or something similar...)
Thanks for your input !
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When it happened to me I assumed I'm just dumb and can't bleed it right or something as I was fairly new to disc brakes. Took it to a bike shop. When they failed to as well they just called shimano. Shimano replaced for free.
I am however 100% sure it was my mistake for overtightening. Worked fine before that.
But understandably difficult if you have 1 bike.
Current bikes: '24 S-Works Tarmac SL8, '24 Specialized Allez Sprint
Disgusting list of bikes owned
Disgusting list of bikes owned
I have two road bikes with hydraulic brake's. One with dura ace calipers and the other with 105.gurk700 wrote: ↑Sun May 19, 2024 9:29 pmWhen it happened to me I assumed I'm just dumb and can't bleed it right or something as I was fairly new to disc brakes. Took it to a bike shop. When they failed to as well they just called shimano. Shimano replaced for free.
I am however 100% sure it was my mistake for overtightening. Worked fine before that.
But understandably difficult if you have 1 bike.
I bought some dura ace parts used. One of these was the rear caliper - which is also why I can't make any warranty claims and your failure mode may very well apply to that one. (ome of the reasons why I wouldn't buy some parts used anymore)
Was the oil leakage you observed excessive? I.e. did you notice it straight after bleeding while in the stand or only after some time.
Mine was immediately apparent upon bleeding. It almost didn't quite bleed right and got squishy brakes immediately after bleeding.Eterna7m wrote: ↑Sun May 19, 2024 9:53 pmI have two road bikes with hydraulic brake's. One with dura ace calipers and the other with 105.gurk700 wrote: ↑Sun May 19, 2024 9:29 pmWhen it happened to me I assumed I'm just dumb and can't bleed it right or something as I was fairly new to disc brakes. Took it to a bike shop. When they failed to as well they just called shimano. Shimano replaced for free.
I am however 100% sure it was my mistake for overtightening. Worked fine before that.
But understandably difficult if you have 1 bike.
I bought some dura ace parts used. One of these was the rear caliper - which is also why I can't make any warranty claims and your failure mode may very well apply to that one. (ome of the reasons why I wouldn't buy some parts used anymore)
Was the oil leakage you observed excessive? I.e. did you notice it straight after bleeding while in the stand or only after some time.
FWIW even though I bought my stuff new, they never asked for any receipts or any proof of purchase type thing so might as well be used.
Bike shop I went to was a first time too so they didn't sell me the stuff.
Current bikes: '24 S-Works Tarmac SL8, '24 Specialized Allez Sprint
Disgusting list of bikes owned
Disgusting list of bikes owned
Mine (DA 9270) was new. I am using the caliper without the adapter together with a 140 mm disc. I torqued the bleed screw correctly. The bolts fixing the caliper to the chainstay should be of correct length per Shimano manual. Torque was about 6.5 Nm iirc.
After bleeding the lever was firm. It's been like that for some time (3-4 months) and must have lost oil in very small amounts through the bleed port.
After bleeding the lever was firm. It's been like that for some time (3-4 months) and must have lost oil in very small amounts through the bleed port.
Road
Cube Agree C:62 SLT 2021 (frame+fork) DA 9270 6.9x kg - ride-ready 7.25 kg w/pedals, cages, sensors, Wahoo mount
Gravel
Velobuild GF-002 Force AXS 7.5 kg, ride-ready 7.775 kg w/200 ml Stan‘s, pedals, cages, sensors, Wahoo/Cateye mounts
Cube Agree C:62 SLT 2021 (frame+fork) DA 9270 6.9x kg - ride-ready 7.25 kg w/pedals, cages, sensors, Wahoo mount
Gravel
Velobuild GF-002 Force AXS 7.5 kg, ride-ready 7.775 kg w/200 ml Stan‘s, pedals, cages, sensors, Wahoo/Cateye mounts
I had this problem recently too and took my bike to the LBS when I failed multiple bleeds. According to them, 9200 amd 8100 have this problem when the bleed screw is not tight enough.
If you are having this problem, tighten the bleed screw a little more than spec and it should be ok. Solved my problem like this.
If you are having this problem, tighten the bleed screw a little more than spec and it should be ok. Solved my problem like this.
I have an issue wirh my Ultegra front derailleur.
Sometimes when I want to shit from the small to the big ring the chain falls between the small ring and the frame an gets stuck.
But only sometimes.
What should I do?
Maybe install a chain catcher? If yes, any recommendation?
Sometimes when I want to shit from the small to the big ring the chain falls between the small ring and the frame an gets stuck.
But only sometimes.
What should I do?
Maybe install a chain catcher? If yes, any recommendation?
People will disagree with me but I personally believe a chain catcher is not needed with Shimano if the FD is set up correctly. So I would start there, setting up the FD to a tee according to the specification, making sure the FD is just millimeters away from the chain at the low and high limits (as per the manual).
If you still want to get a chain catcher the one from K-Edge (two-bolt version for easier adjustment) is usually recommended.
If you still want to get a chain catcher the one from K-Edge (two-bolt version for easier adjustment) is usually recommended.
I set mine to exactly what the Shimano dealer manual states and sometimes I still get chain drops when using the synchro shift and shifting during climbs/load. When manually shifting I never had a chain drop. I installed the K-Edge chain catcher to try and protect the frame.Torbjorn wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2024 9:09 amPeople will disagree with me but I personally believe a chain catcher is not needed with Shimano if the FD is set up correctly. So I would start there, setting up the FD to a tee according to the specification, making sure the FD is just millimeters away from the chain at the low and high limits (as per the manual).
If you still want to get a chain catcher the one from K-Edge (two-bolt version for easier adjustment) is usually recommended.
Di2 is amazing, but in 15 years of mechanical on Ultegr 6700 I never had a chain drop, so that is my one complaint with Di2.
What's even more puzzling to me is last year even with a K-Edge chain catcher I had a drop go past the chain catcher. You'd think the limit screw would prevent all drops and if anything gets past it the chain catcher would stop it. Worse yet when I stopped to put the chain back up, it couldn't pass the chain catcher so I had to remove the K-Edge on the side on the road to get the chain back on and then re-install the K-Edge. At least there was no frame damage so the chain catcher probably absorbed most of the force from the drop.
Check the support bolt on the FD. That's the most common culprit when it comes to FD issues. I'd loosen the support bolt, loosen the RD mounting bolt, swing the FD so that the tail of the cage is slightly inboard, tighten the RD mounting bolt, turn the support bolt until the cage is parallel with the big ring.
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I'm pretty sure that is how I set it up, but it doesn't hurt to go back and redo it, if I am lucky that will eliminate all future drops for me.pdlpsher1 wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2024 5:17 pmCheck the support bolt on the FD. That's the most common culprit when it comes to FD issues. I'd loosen the support bolt, loosen the RD mounting bolt, swing the FD so that the tail of the cage is slightly inboard, tighten the RD mounting bolt, turn the support bolt until the cage is parallel with the big ring.