Dura-Ace R9200

[js]

WRT front derailleur set-up, you may just need to modify the concave washer slightly. I've had that problem in past with other setups, where you could align things perfectly at partial tension, but as you tighten it down, the whole thing turns a bit. It happened because the concave washer wasn't able to settle evenly into both sides of the hanger, so as everything was tightened, one side was mechanically stopped and that resulted in the entire unit being turned.

That seems to be exactly the behaviour you're describing, so I'd check and double-check for some type of physical interference with the mounting hardware on either side of the derailleur hanger.

[Gavin929]

To post a follow up to my "gear position control" function on the 9200 series di2...

You can, infact, do the same as the previous generation and turn off this function. It is just a little difficult to figure out compared to the previous e-tube software. You now have to go into synchro-shift and change the front chainrings to 54/40. You do not have the ability to change your chainrings in any other setting at the moment. Once you do this you can go and turn off gear position control in the synchro mode. This will also disable gear position control in manual mode. Doesn't seem like the most intuitive method given I never use synchro or semi-synchro modes. I never thought to check here for manual mode modifications.

So you can easily get all 24 gears and they are all useable. I did not have to make any adjustment to my front derailleur or my rear derailleur b-tension.

[DaveS]

Sleep required: what's that screw touching the back of the FD mount?

[usr]

WRT front derailleur set-up, you may just need to modify the concave washer slightly. I've had that problem in past with other setups, where you could align things perfectly at partial tension, but as you tighten it down, the whole thing turns a bit. It happened because the concave washer wasn't able to settle evenly into both sides of the hanger, so as everything was tightened, one side was mechanically stopped and that resulted in the entire unit being turned.

In other words: disagreement between Campagnolo and frame/frame-tidbits manufacturer about what exactly the radius of the braze-on should be?

[pdlpsher1]

That screw provides structural support for the FD during up shifts. It’s set only after the FD has been fully secured to the mount. To set it you just turn the bolt clockwise until it touches the FD mount or frame. I think Shimano calls it the support bolt or something similar.


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[pdlpsher1]

In looking at the conical washer more closely it appears that the ends are damaged. Perhaps the washer was installed 90 degrees out of phase at one time, causing the ends to be crushed. New washers should solve the problem.


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[ms6073]

When tightened down 7nm it kicks out the cage and makes it hard to align correctly.

The support bolt is just touching, it's not forcing the cage tail out at all.

I would suggest loosening the support bolt so it is not visible, loosen the mounting bolt, cant the derailleur in as far as it will go, tighten to 6-7nm. At this point, the derailleur should still be canted inward such that tightening the support bolt will move the cage into proper alignment with the chainring. If that does not happen, you might consider 'polishing' the mounting face of the braze on mount so that the derailleur can be canted even further in towards the wheel.

[Sleeprequired]

When tightened down 7nm it kicks out the cage and makes it hard to align correctly.

The support bolt is just touching, it's not forcing the cage tail out at all.

I would suggest loosening the support bolt so it is not visible, loosen the mounting bolt, cant the derailleur in as far as it will go, tighten to 6-7nm. At this point, the derailleur should still be canted inward such that tightening the support bolt will move the cage into proper alignment with the chainring. If that does not happen, you might consider 'polishing' the mounting face of the braze on mount so that the derailleur can be canted even further in towards the wheel.

Yeah that's exactly what I did but it gets pulled back at 6-7nm.

Polishing the mounting face should work providing it stays put. Thanks for the tip!

[Sleeprequired]

In looking at the conical washer more closely it appears that the ends are damaged. Perhaps the washer was installed 90 degrees out of phase at one time, causing the ends to be crushed. New washers should solve the problem.


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Yep thanks will check it out

[Sleeprequired]

That's my issue is when I tighten the braze on bolt it kicks out beyond parallel. With a correct fitting braze on you do it slightly inward then tighten the support bolt to parallel.

I literally cannot tighten it to spec without it being beyond parallel.

And then there's the issue of having to go to -19 in the trim adjustment for the 11-52.

Somethings wrong with the braze on and if you look at it, it just doesn't seem to fit

Did you check if the wire isn’t being pinched between the mount and the frame?

Yeah the wire is no problem. I'm almost certain it's the braze on is for the previous di2 FD. it's exactly the same as my friends sl6 and that braze on fits the derailleur.

If you look closely at the photo there's a big gap behind the FD to the braze on.

So you can position it right, but as you tighten the bolt down it forced the FD on a sub optimal angle.

Does anyone have a top down shot of a DA 9200 bike?

Mine sits just right on my TCR advanced SL frame


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Yes so it looks like giant have designed a braze on mount that will work correctly.

See how mine is kicked out? Huge gap between the braze on and the back/side of the derailleur where you see the support bolt is bridging the gap. It just looks wrong to me.

[BigBoyND]

That looks 100% normal to me. I've had multiple bikes where the FD angled out as I torqued it to spec. I just over-corrected the angle before tightening, so after it kicks out, it's in the right place. Just did this on my Canyon Speedmax few weeks ago.

[Sleeprequired]

That looks 100% normal to me. I've had multiple bikes where the FD angled out as I torqued it to spec. I just over-corrected the angle before tightening, so after it kicks out, it's in the right place. Just did this on my Canyon Speedmax few weeks ago.

Yeah but what I'm saying is you can angle it in all you like, as you tighten it up it pulls the back of the cage out again. The derailleur is also too far out from the seat tube which is why you have to adjust to -19 offset.

If I was using the previous gen FD this wouldn't happen because it's larger.

The mount needs to be updated for the current FD like the giant one. Until then I think shaving the concave nut is the only solution but the unit is mounted too far outbound compared to the gmg isn't one for sure.

[pdlpsher1]

Regarding your -19 trim offset issue, it it possible that somehow your crank's chainline was messed up during the crank's installation? To check it take a measurement of the distance from the crank arm to the seat tube on both sides. Make sure they are the same. The BB installation could also affect the chainline. The 9200 crank and FD sits 1mm further outboard from the 9100. But the FD has already accounted for the +1mm increase in chainline so the trim offset should be 0 if the crank is positioned correctly relative to the centerline of the seat tube and that the FD mounting tab is in the correct position.

If you still have the 9150 FD (or any Shimano FD) you can swap out the conical washer from the 9150. They are the same.

[Sleeprequired]

Regarding your -19 trim offset issue, it it possible that somehow your crank's chainline was messed up during the crank's installation? To check it take a measurement of the distance from the crank arm to the seat tube on both sides. Make sure they are the same. The BB installation could also affect the chainline. The 9200 crank and FD sits 1mm further outboard from the 9100. But the FD has already accounted for the +1mm increase in chainline so the trim offset should be 0 if the crank is positioned correctly relative to the centerline of the seat tube and that the FD mounting tab is in the correct position.

If you still have the 9150 FD (or any Shimano FD) you can swap out the conical washer from the 9150. They are the same.

Ok we might be onto something here. The dura ace plastic pre tension in the crank arm was missing from the retail box so a temporary solution was to use a cut down 9150 one.

I'm in a different location at the moment but could that be the cause?

I think the shop cut it to the same width but 1mm is an easy mistake to make.

If it is the case I tell be resolved as soon as shimano can get them the right part.

[pdlpsher1]

If you're talking about this little black nut then it shouldn't matter. The nut sets the preload of the BB bearing. To check whether the preload is set correctly see if the crank moves laterally when pushed hard from the side. If for some reason the preload isn't set the crank can move laterally and that would change the chainline.

The BB installation could also affect the crank's chainline. Watch this video for an explanation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-a7VUSK4gmM