33T on bcd 110 Rotor 3D?
Moderator: robbosmans
Hey,
I've been taking a long look at my gearing choices lately,and came to the conclusion that I want to make it more compact,saving weight and having a closer ratio cassete.
Here's my current setup:
Rotor 3D bcd 110
48 TA Syrius outer
34 Rotor NoQ
SRAM Red 10s FD
PYC 1101 chain
Ultegra 11-32 cassete
SRAM Rival Wifli 11s RD
I know,big mixup,but it works
So,my idea is going for a 33t inner chainring and a 11-30 cassete. I didn't found a 33t 11s chainring,will a 10s TA Zephyr present any problem? It's the only 5 arm bcd 110 that seems available apart from the boutique brands.
A 33-30 would give me a 1,10 ratio,while my current 34-32 gives me 1,06.
Opinions welcome!
I've been taking a long look at my gearing choices lately,and came to the conclusion that I want to make it more compact,saving weight and having a closer ratio cassete.
Here's my current setup:
Rotor 3D bcd 110
48 TA Syrius outer
34 Rotor NoQ
SRAM Red 10s FD
PYC 1101 chain
Ultegra 11-32 cassete
SRAM Rival Wifli 11s RD
I know,big mixup,but it works
So,my idea is going for a 33t inner chainring and a 11-30 cassete. I didn't found a 33t 11s chainring,will a 10s TA Zephyr present any problem? It's the only 5 arm bcd 110 that seems available apart from the boutique brands.
A 33-30 would give me a 1,10 ratio,while my current 34-32 gives me 1,06.
Opinions welcome!
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33 tooth are available 11 speed STRONGLIGHT CT2, i'm running 33 47 on my gravel bike at the moment with an 11-28 for road and 11-34 for gravel and am happy with the gearing, run an 11-36 for proper offroad fun with 27.5 x 2.1" tyres, gives me all the range i need just by changing the rear wheel.
@Karvalo
The 30 should work ok, but I'm willing to try different things if it means having a transmission tuned to my specific needs. Plus it's not a big investment, I can get the TA chainring for under 25€,it's worth a try.
@motorapido
Thanks. I can't find the CT2 as cheap as the TA, so maybe I'll go for the latter. I hope the minimal width difference won't present a problem.
Here's what the gear charts says, in meters per revolution:
34-32 2,24m
33-30 2,32m
34-30 2,39m
It may doesn't seem like much, but we all know how it really feels when hitting a steep climb, don't we...
The 30 should work ok, but I'm willing to try different things if it means having a transmission tuned to my specific needs. Plus it's not a big investment, I can get the TA chainring for under 25€,it's worth a try.
@motorapido
Thanks. I can't find the CT2 as cheap as the TA, so maybe I'll go for the latter. I hope the minimal width difference won't present a problem.
Here's what the gear charts says, in meters per revolution:
34-32 2,24m
33-30 2,32m
34-30 2,39m
It may doesn't seem like much, but we all know how it really feels when hitting a steep climb, don't we...
The difference between 34 and 33 chainrings is smaller than half of the difference between a 30 and 32t cassette which is nearly nothing.
If you want more range you either put an 11s 36t (with or without a sram 10sp mtb rd = 11s compatible), or you get an adventure crank like a 46/30. Fsa has some cheap 11s 90bcd road cranks where you can swap the small chainring to something smaller than a 34.
Another thing is to get a powermeter and keep your current gears. The fifness you'll gain after a while is like having another gear or two.
If you want more range you either put an 11s 36t (with or without a sram 10sp mtb rd = 11s compatible), or you get an adventure crank like a 46/30. Fsa has some cheap 11s 90bcd road cranks where you can swap the small chainring to something smaller than a 34.
Another thing is to get a powermeter and keep your current gears. The fifness you'll gain after a while is like having another gear or two.
I guess you didn't catch my first post.
I want a closer ratio cassete, not more range. In fact I can get away with a bit less than the 32,but the 30 may make change my mind, so I'm considering the 33 chainring. I'll keep the 2 cassetes and may swap them around.
Very little differences, I know.
As for powermeters and getting stronger, thanks for the tip but that's just not for me.
Enviado do meu G3311 através do Tapatalk
I want a closer ratio cassete, not more range. In fact I can get away with a bit less than the 32,but the 30 may make change my mind, so I'm considering the 33 chainring. I'll keep the 2 cassetes and may swap them around.
Very little differences, I know.
As for powermeters and getting stronger, thanks for the tip but that's just not for me.
Enviado do meu G3311 através do Tapatalk
33t 110bcd chainrings exist but they are VERY marginal and the chain is liable to touch the crank spider arms. This probably isn’t a problem, but it could be.
Why not get a 50/34 and 12-32? This gives you closer spacing and only a slightly shorter high gear, while also using standard components
Why not get a 50/34 and 12-32? This gives you closer spacing and only a slightly shorter high gear, while also using standard components
To get the 16t cog you usually need to step down to an 11-28t cassette. 30 and 32 are basically the same.
So how about a 46/34 and 11-28, or as the previous poster said 50/34 and 12-32t or a 12-30t or 12-28t.
Different brand cassettes will offer different jumps. I like how the 28t cassettes from sram offer a ton of 1t jumps for cadence adjustment at speed.
So how about a 46/34 and 11-28, or as the previous poster said 50/34 and 12-32t or a 12-30t or 12-28t.
Different brand cassettes will offer different jumps. I like how the 28t cassettes from sram offer a ton of 1t jumps for cadence adjustment at speed.
Thanks for your suggestions.
As it isn't a big investment,I'll try my first idea,the 48-33 x 11-30. My only concern was if the 33t ring would clear the Rotor crankset,but I don't think it will present a problem.
If it doesn't work,I'll keep you posted.
As it isn't a big investment,I'll try my first idea,the 48-33 x 11-30. My only concern was if the 33t ring would clear the Rotor crankset,but I don't think it will present a problem.
If it doesn't work,I'll keep you posted.
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