Weight Weenies

I will be purchasing the new S-Works Tarmac Disc.

I am not too sure about which version to buy.

S-WORKS TARMAC DISC – SRAM ETAP (Sram Etap AXS)
MEN'S S-WORKS TARMAC DISC (Dura Ace Di2)

Anyone have an Idea which one is lighter?
Or any opinions on the SRAM eTap AXS?


I like both coloring options, maybe the white a little bit better.
If anyone has seen non Studio Pictures of the white Version, please link them

Another possibility would be to go the MEN'S TARMAC DISC PRO route and add a Powermeter myself.
I would be glad if anyone has real weight differences of the Disc Pro vs the S-Works Versions.

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DI2!
Easier to find spare parts all over the world, works perfect, more options on gear/sprockets (cheap to very expensive in different configurations).
Without any doubt for me (says the Campy-rider).

eTap AXS is at it's infancy at the moment, of course spares and 3rd party components (chainrings and compatible freehubs pop up first) are hard to find.

If there isn't a considerable price gap between them and you'll not benefit from previous purchases (compatible wheelsets etc.), I'd say go with eTap AXS if you like the concept. In my book it is a step ahead of Di2 (wired vs. wireless) technologically.

Here are pics of both....

Di2.


Etap AXS


You can see more of the pics of both bikes that I shot, on the Hilltop Instagram.

AXS for sure, that fade is magic and Sram is a dream

Weight-wise, Di2 will most likely be lighter, due to groupset and paintjob. However, if you like the Sram colourway and would choose Di2 only for the 100-200g weight saving, I think it’s a terrible idea.

Can't go wrong with either.

I've got the di2 version.. And if was to choose today.. And no difference in price.. Might be tempted by the cleaner hose only setup..12 speed with better ratios..nice silver white fade paint...

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Let down by how chunky AXS components (hoods and derailleurs) look like... Can't believe we're in 2019.

LOVE the white in person. but still love the black more

My choice is SRAM except the idea that you have to recycle your power meter along with your chainrings when the rings wear of just turns me off..

I'll go for option 3. Buy frame. Build it with Sram eTap.

Usually I'm SRAM, but with the 'disposable' power meter and finicky hard to bleed SRAM disk brakes where the fluid needs to be degassed, I'd say for long term lack of headaches and lower long term cost of spares I'd say Dura-Ace.

If it was a rim brake bike with a different crankset then SRAM.

Lol, degassing takes seconds and effectively animates bubbles that are otherwise stuck in the caliper body. It’s also a once a year type of maintenance. How is this a deciding factor? I guess you’d rather bleed with a cup and no Bleeding Edge fitting.

Like, how is that worth mentioning and not eTap front shift quality (lack of?)

TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 17, 2019 7:36 am

Lol, degassing takes seconds and effectively animates bubbles that are otherwise stuck in the caliper body. It’s also a once a year type of maintenance. How is this a deciding factor? I guess you’d rather bleed with a cup and no Bleeding Edge fitting.

Like, how is that worth mentioning at not eTap front shift quality (lack of?)

Shimano brakes are a lot easier to live with than SRAM disk brakes, because the mineral oil much easier on you and the environment and well as they just work better. It's perfectly relevant. Shimano brakes are also far easier to bleed as mineral oil doesn't get gaseous bubbles in it and there is far less likelyhood of trapped air in the system after bleeds. For the application of cycling disk brakes mineral oil is better IMHO.

What isn't relevant is a seldom reported problem with the old SRAM Red front derailleur, we don't even know if AXS has this problem as it's a new product.

You seem desperate to get into an argument, to somehow prove that your favorite uneccessary new tech is in every way prefect, because you're in some honeymoon phase with it. That everything is simple and takes two seconds, whereas IRL it's a PITA.

The primary reason Shimano doesn’t involve degassing is because its bleed processs doesn’t have a facility for it. Mineral oil also doesn’t have magical properties where gas doesn’t dissolve into it. In fact mineral has no standard properties at all. Mineral oil just means an oil that isn’t derived from organic matter.

If for some reason your SRAM bleed didn’t go well, you can just half bleed the system by pressurizing the system for a couple hours (zip-tie) and then agitating the system again with the syringe in the lever port.

Also the FD issue has at best only improved slightly because of the smaller tooth jumps...it’s a way bigger problem than having to pull a plunger a couple times. You act like I’m talking favorably about SRAM here when I’m being more critical of them than you.

It seems like I single you out, but that’s because you post a lot of illogical stuff.

TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 17, 2019 1:36 pm

It seems like I single you out, but that’s because you post a lot of illogical stuff.

An opinion that differs from yours = illogical.

Your opinion is illogical because you're in total denial of any downsides with mostly unneccesary new technology. You harp on constantly how things are better and easy, when in reality they aren't. You mislead people into this new technology, like tubeless and disk brakes due to either not undestanding the downsides or more probably being in denial.

The reason that you single me out is that I actually have vast experience with disk brakes and tubeless tires from over 20 years with motos and MTBs. If I were someone with no actual experience with this things I wouldn't be a threat to your garden of roses post-purchase rationalization fallacies, because I'd be easy to dismiss.

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Pro tip: You don’t even need to degas a SRAM brake system. It’s just precautionary and also possible because there are syringes closing the system on both ends. When you bleed Hope RX4s paired with SRAM levers they don’t instruct you to pull back on the syringe plunger, they just tell you to flick the lever to cause agitation.

Also when’s the last time you degassed car or moto brakes? It’s optional, not required.

You claim you have experience, but the past few posts lead me to question this. You don’t even know why SRAM includes degassing as a step in the bleed process.