Let's talk rotors
Moderator: robbosmans
Sounds then like smaller or larger rotors come down to larger being a little heavier, some people liking the look of smaller rotors better, possible small change in aero drag, and possible small influence on side winds.
Or, not that critical and just ride what you like
Or, not that critical and just ride what you like
Fixed it for you.jih wrote: ↑Tue Mar 19, 2019 4:33 pmSounds then like smaller or larger rotors come down to larger being a little heavier, some people liking the look of smaller rotors better, possible infitessimally small change in aero drag, and possible minute influence on side winds.
Or, not that critical and just ride what you like
And agree with the last line !!
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in the case of shimano the caliper is the same.. only the adapter is added or (flipped) .. I doubt you could tell the difference.
2024 BMC TeamMachine R
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2018 BMC TImeMachine Road
2002 Moots Compact-SL
2019 Parlee Z0XD - "classified"
2023 Pivot E-Vault
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Something like a Hope RX4 effectively has the adapter plates built into the caliper body, so they can only be used with 160mm rotors.
There's also weird front fork configurations like on the BMC Teammachine where the adapter plate isn't used at all and the front caliper is then bolted through the fork like a rear caliper would be. In essence the front caliper is mounted in a "rear 140mm" configuration even though it is being used with a 160mm rotor.
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And here's a photo of a non-standard front 160mm configuration using a bare Shimano caliper without the front plate in either orientation...effectively a "rear 140mm" configuration.
Same with my TimeMachine Road... bummer because I had to order more fixing bolts because when using the adaptors you get 2 shorties.TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Sun Mar 24, 2019 12:29 amSomething like a Hope RX4 effectively has the adapter plates built into the caliper body, so they can only be used with 160mm rotors.
There's also weird front fork configurations like on the BMC Teammachine where the adapter plate isn't used at all and the front caliper is then bolted through the fork like a rear caliper would be. In essence the front caliper is mounted in a "rear 140mm" configuration even though it is being used with a 160mm rotor.
2024 BMC TeamMachine R
2018 BMC TImeMachine Road
2002 Moots Compact-SL
2019 Parlee Z0XD - "classified"
2023 Pivot E-Vault
2018 BMC TImeMachine Road
2002 Moots Compact-SL
2019 Parlee Z0XD - "classified"
2023 Pivot E-Vault
It's the same caliper located another 10mm up. The adapter moves the caliper up the fork, where a post mount adapter moves the rotor out from the fork.
Compatibility charts specify frame rotor size designed for vs what is being used and calls out the adapter.
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Compatibility charts specify frame rotor size designed for vs what is being used and calls out the adapter.
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
So what is the general consensus on "the best" rotor to use with Shimano hydraulics? The Dura Ace RT900 or the XTR MT900? Also, at 155 lbs do I really need a 160mm rotor on the front. I know how to brake and don't drag my brakes on extended downhills. Overkill with 160mm?
Aside from weight, only downside with 160mm is if you jump on the front brake too quickly you have a bit more leverage to make a mistake. If you're too high, you'll go over the bars or you might lock too easiliy. The 160 will have ~10% more leverage than 140mm which is only an realistic issue when you first grab the brake hard. I'd go 160/140 unless you've got 140s laying around, tend to startle long or aggressively in emergency brakes (be honest with yourself), or sit high and forward.
140 fr is still good for a heavy person as the pad comes up to temp quicker. If you overheat the pad, it's not a big expense to up the rotor or pad. Unless you waaayyyy overdo it, the pad won't loose all braking when you overheat it. It will smoke (it's actually on fire) and should finish the day as it dusts away.
140 fr is still good for a heavy person as the pad comes up to temp quicker. If you overheat the pad, it's not a big expense to up the rotor or pad. Unless you waaayyyy overdo it, the pad won't loose all braking when you overheat it. It will smoke (it's actually on fire) and should finish the day as it dusts away.
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They're all so good after the Freeza rotors came out that it's almost just a question of asthetics.Yeti wrote: ↑Thu Apr 04, 2019 6:03 pmSo what is the general consensus on "the best" rotor to use with Shimano hydraulics? The Dura Ace RT900 or the XTR MT900? Also, at 155 lbs do I really need a 160mm rotor on the front. I know how to brake and don't drag my brakes on extended downhills. Overkill with 160mm?
Eh, you can do that with rim brakes too, except there's no reason to grab hydraulics that hard.jfranci3 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 04, 2019 6:16 pmAside from weight, only downside with 160mm is if you jump on the front brake too quickly you have a bit more leverage to make a mistake. If you're too high, you'll go over the bars or you might lock too easiliy. The 160 will have ~10% more leverage than 140mm which is only an realistic issue when you first grab the brake hard. I'd go 160/140 unless you've got 140s laying around, tend to startle long or aggressively in emergency brakes (be honest with yourself), or sit high and forward.
140 fr is still good for a heavy person as the pad comes up to temp quicker. If you overheat the pad, it's not a big expense to up the rotor or pad. Unless you waaayyyy overdo it, the pad won't loose all braking when you overheat it. It will smoke (it's actually on fire) and should finish the day as it dusts away.
Using a bigger front rotor is, among other things, a way to generate more power with the front using similar effort at the lever.