What Equipment Not to Buy

[L3X]

I'm not having a go at you. I just used to be very similar, but then opened up a bit and enjoyed things a bit more.

Just think it's cool that you have a totally different view and approach on things, each their own I guess - that's why I specifically said 'in my opinion'. On #1, this obviously is a bike forum, not a stove forum so that was pointed specifically at bikes

[ParisCarbon]

So you're saying Di2 not as great as you thought?

Anyway, my 2c for equipment not to buy: any wheel with fat aluminium spokes, including Shamals. Just say no.

It was my first stab at electronics... It was great when it worked properly.. but I had multiple instances of the chain dropping from the 53 to the 39 ring if I hit a bump, once during the restart of a race, it just ghost shifted from the 53 to the 39 without me touching a thing... as I watched everyone sprint away... multiple instances of not being able to get it to the 11 cog, but put it on the workstand and it was solid.. I just gave up on it..

We drilled up my Shiv TT for Di2 and its been flawless.. Id go Campy on it as well, but the DTI for the Campy wouldnt allow me internal routing..

[tabl10s]

After messing around with bikes for 40 years, my advice on what NOT to buy:-

1/ Anything Campagnolo. Too many year-on-year compatability issues.

2/ Campagnolo cranksets. Extra/expensive tooling required to replace bearings.

3/ Novatec hubs. Lack of end user infromation makes swapping freehub bodies a faff if you do not know if end caps need switching or washers need relocating.

Anything else?

Tune could also be in the mix:

https://youtu.be/l8qsvupxxTg

https://youtu.be/WbZDswqwBXE

[L3X]

Some of the older Tune hubs surely weren't great... Personally I broke the carbon axle on a prince hub. On the positive side, Tune was very helpful in getting it fixed. I have 4 or 5 sets of new Tune hubs that I use, they're all great for me so far.

[AnkitS]

Staying away from specialized inner tubes. Tried a couple because I was out of tubes and all my favorite LBS stocked. expensive and 2/4 failed out of the box. Never again.

[LouisN]

Some negativity in that thread....
With a little patience, we'll eventually see just about every single bicyle part end up here....

Louis

[kgt]

Ok...
don't ever buy s-works exos shoes. A problematic product that is ridicously overprized as anything with s-works written on it.

[TonyM]

Some negativity in that thread....
With a little patience, we'll eventually see just about every single bicyle part end up here....

Louis

True!!!

And if we make the opposite thread it would most probably also end up like this one also...LOL


For me it is however interesting to see the reason given by the people why they do not recommend a specific product.

[andreas]

Silca Seat Roll Premio... fiddly with the two separate tightening mechanisms, very low capacity considering the external volume, and when riding in rain the bag and contents get wet and gritty. Without doubt the worst saddle bag I've had, polished turd.

[RocketRacing]

Don't buy a prebuilt bicycle with the idea you're going to upgrade it later.

X 1000. A lot of bikes look like good deals until you realize you will be selling the cockpit , crankset, wheels.

Not sure i agree. Depends on what you plan to upgrade to/with.

I have personally bought the best frame i can, with the cheapest components specced (in reality, i have gone used for my two exotic builds). I then swap out just about everything for top spec groupset, and exotic light carbin parts. I avoid higher end components oem, because they still do not meet my build standards, so they get swapped out anyway.

Or that is how i logic it.

These days, a new frame is only a few bucks less than the same frame and a full bike. Strip parts off as you aquire dream bike parts, sell them, and you are ahead. Then you get dream bike specs for a everyman price. Twice now i have used mint (used) near top end frames (the top tops are always silly expensive for a few more grams saving... not worth the cost per gram) upgraded to higher specs than top tear factory offerings (way lighter too), for about half the price of the oem top line offerings.

[Valbrona]

Places you find Hirth joints:-

1/ Campagnolo cranksets.

2/ Barney Rubble's car.

[robertbb]

Places you find Hirth joints:-

1/ Campagnolo cranksets.

2/ Barney Rubble's car.

Ultra Torque is an elegant and reliable solution. But haters gonna hate.

[blaugrana]

Places you find Hirth joints:-

1/ Campagnolo cranksets.

2/ Barney Rubble's car.

Ultra Torque is an elegant and reliable solution. But haters gonna hate.

Exactly. There are things I might dislike about Campagnolo, but the Ultra Torque cranksets work well and the joint has never given me any trouble. Also, it's easy to replace the bearings with a cheap generic 15€ bearing puller.

[blaugrana]

Edit: double post.

[kervelo]

Places you find Hirth joints:-

1/ Campagnolo cranksets.

2/ Barney Rubble's car.

Ultra Torque is an elegant and reliable solution. But haters gonna hate.

Exactly. There are things I might dislike about Campagnolo, but the Ultra Torque cranksets work well and the joint has never given me any trouble. Also, it's easy to replace the bearings with a cheap generic 15€ bearing puller.

Absolutely true. If you have issues with those, you must be doing something wrong.