CAAD13

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Lasse
Posts: 11
Joined: Mon Aug 05, 2019 10:42 am

by Lasse

gjaevert wrote:
Fri Jul 10, 2020 9:29 am
Just got my CAAD13 this week!
Very happy so far, but it does feel heavy so naturally looking to upgrade a few things.

Stem: Zipp Service Course SL (unsure about the length)
Handlebars: Zipp Service Course SL-70 or ZIPP Service Course SL-70 XPLR (But a bit unsure if such flare is nice on a road bike)
Wheels:
The stock wheels feel super heavy. Wondering if a Fulcrum Racing 5 DB or Racing 4 DB would feel like a true upgrade. Anyone have any input on that?

20200708_181658.jpg
I have the exact same one. The stock version is heavy (size 58 just around 9 kg). I was able to get mine down to 7,6 but I allso changed every thing (sram red group set, carbon seat post, zipp bars and stem, Ultegra Rotors, hollowgram wheels and Pirellit tyres). Wheels, rotors and tyres are the biggest weight savings.

parajba
Posts: 743
Joined: Tue Oct 28, 2008 9:00 pm
Location: London, United Kingdom

by parajba

What's the torque spec for the hidden mudguards eyelets? I cannot find it anywhere...

by Weenie


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c60rider
Posts: 871
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2017 11:12 pm

by c60rider

parajba wrote:
Thu Sep 24, 2020 1:51 pm
What's the torque spec for the hidden mudguards eyelets? I cannot find it anywhere...
I don't think there is one I just put a washer on it then tightened it up old school. Based on the size of the bolt and what you're using it for it's probably 2nm. You could use a bit of thread locker for extra security but I didn't bother and it's never come loose. Not using a washer (which is how they are supplied, though I didn't get them on the forks) and not using thread locker will mean they will likely rattle loose eventually no matter how tight you do them up.

parajba
Posts: 743
Joined: Tue Oct 28, 2008 9:00 pm
Location: London, United Kingdom

by parajba

c60rider wrote:
Thu Sep 24, 2020 2:14 pm
parajba wrote:
Thu Sep 24, 2020 1:51 pm
What's the torque spec for the hidden mudguards eyelets? I cannot find it anywhere...
I don't think there is one I just put a washer on it then tightened it up old school. Based on the size of the bolt and what you're using it for it's probably 2nm. You could use a bit of thread locker for extra security but I didn't bother and it's never come loose. Not using a washer (which is how they are supplied, though I didn't get them on the forks) and not using thread locker will mean they will likely rattle loose eventually no matter how tight you do them up.
Thanks a lot, makes sense. I just purchased a set of black PDW. They look so cool!

Geraint
Posts: 143
Joined: Thu Aug 06, 2020 7:46 am

by Geraint

From my experience of similar bolts on a Synapse, I'd recommend a drop of Loctite on the bolt threads and low torque, ie just 'nip them up' like you would a bottle cage bolt. They are small alloy threads and will probably rattle loose without Loctite.

azuk94
Posts: 2
Joined: Thu Dec 21, 2017 11:41 am

by azuk94

Just bought my CAAD13, looking to change the crankset to shimano ultegra. Which type of bottom bracket i should use?
The frame is BB30a has a 5mm offset to the non drive side, would it be compatible with a shimano crankset?

Image

nooski
Posts: 147
Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2010 9:24 pm
Location: Czech Republic

by nooski

You can use something like this https://www.bike24.com/p2256882.html or https://www.bike24.com/p2256882.html they are just axle diameter reducers with the correct width.
Dum spiro spero
my bike: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=130302

User avatar
ryanw
in the industry
Posts: 2284
Joined: Sat Apr 16, 2016 6:52 pm
Location: London

by ryanw

Only fit adapters if you want to kill your existing BB... I am forever removing WMFG reducers from BB30 bikes running Shimano cranks and finding poor tolerances allowing crap into the BB / shell and destroying bearings.

I'd suggest something like a C-Bear BB/PF30A-24-R BB. Not silly expensive and the spacers are built into the cups (less moving parts = better).
SL8 S-Works Project Black - 6.29kg
IG: RhinosWorkshop

OB1knb
Posts: 18
Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2014 12:54 pm

by OB1knb

+1 on the C-bear suggestion, great product and first class customer care.
Tried the first one on my creaking caad10 and never looked back.
Rather then wait for that awful creak on a new bike, I just take the factory bearings out and install a c-bear bb right away.
I have done this on a caad12 rim brakes, caad12 disc, 2016 six hm, 2018 ssix hm and all performed flawlessly.
They are a bit pricey but you can shop around. It's been a fit-and-forget affair even after 17,000km...

PUNlSHER
Posts: 125
Joined: Mon Jun 24, 2019 9:44 am

by PUNlSHER

azuk94 wrote:
Tue Jan 05, 2021 1:08 pm
Just bought my CAAD13, looking to change the crankset to shimano ultegra. Which type of bottom bracket i should use?
The frame is BB30a has a 5mm offset to the non drive side, would it be compatible with a shimano crankset?

Image
try this https://www.bike24.com/p2229284.html
S6 EVO3 - 6380g CAAD13 - 6626g TOPSTONE Al - 8195g

jrod88
Posts: 28
Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2014 1:55 pm

by jrod88

Just picked up my Ultegra Disc 13. Looking to swap in an older hollowgram SL with spider ring to drop some weight, arms should bolt right up to the existing spindle right?
Allez Sprint
SS EVO SE

jrod88
Posts: 28
Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2014 1:55 pm

by jrod88

Lockring tool arrived, installed the spider ring on the crank arms now just waiting on the puller tool. I should save weight there.

I also have a carbon set of Thomson bars ready to swap as well. Once I find a comfortable position I'll swap in a lighter stem and cut the steerer.

I'm stuck on wheels, almost anything will be lighter than these Fulcrums, but as a Clyde I have to be careful. HED RC4's or stick with old faithful, Belgium Plus/CK builds.
Allez Sprint
SS EVO SE

BrianBailey
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2021 3:29 am

by BrianBailey

Just got mine this week. Any idea where i can get a seatpost (HG SL or Carbon KNOT 27), or lighter crank arms (literally anything that fits) in stock? Preferably in the USA, but shipping isn't a dealbreaker. Everyone seems to be out.
Attachments
PXL_20210607_194048406.jpg

gjaevert
Posts: 2
Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2020 8:10 pm

by gjaevert

jrod88 wrote:
Thu Apr 08, 2021 2:14 am
Lockring tool arrived, installed the spider ring on the crank arms now just waiting on the puller tool. I should save weight there.

I also have a carbon set of Thomson bars ready to swap as well. Once I find a comfortable position I'll swap in a lighter stem and cut the steerer.

I'm stuck on wheels, almost anything will be lighter than these Fulcrums, but as a Clyde I have to be careful. HED RC4's or stick with old faithful, Belgium Plus/CK builds.
Can I ask how this went?
Did you change whole crankset or only arms/chainrings?

Keen to do some sort of crank upgrade, but hard to come by a complete Hollowgram crank.

CharlieDG
Posts: 56
Joined: Wed Sep 30, 2020 12:39 pm

by CharlieDG

Hey guys- here's my Caad13. This is my wet/potentially wet weather and training bike. I bought the 105 model, which was super heavy at over 9kg. I have upgraded the wheels to Giant SLR 42mm hookless rims, Cannondale Save carbon seatpost, Prime Doyenne stem, Prime Primavera X-light carbon bars, Dura Ace 9100 front mech and shfters (got these off a friend), 105 R700 crankset, Ultegra R8000 cassette, Fabric Line Titanium saddle. I'm planning to get some Hollowgram cranks and to put on a 9100 rear derailleur I have.
Without my Garmin Rally RS100 pedals the weight is 8.0kg. I will be putting Portland Design Works fenders on for winter. Great bike!
Attachments
IMG_1628.JPG

by Weenie


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