Shimano 12speed...
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On my tandem I'm using the Ultegra 8000 GS mechanical RD with a 11-40 cassette. The shadow RD has a great B screw adjustment range to accommodate a large cassette. Shifting is perfect and no Wolftooth RoadLink is needed. So you don't need the XTR RD to run the 11-40. The 8050 GS RD will do just fine.MagicShite wrote: ↑Wed Feb 13, 2019 2:01 pmI really appreciate a 11-40 cassette. It would make hunting KOMs so much easier for some of the climbs I have here.
People commonly change the crankset, the chain, and set up a front derailleur? After all that, snaking the FD wire through the frame isn't a big deal, or you can tie a string around the wire and leave it hanging out the access hole, or you could even tape over the access hole and the wire.
Routing etube wires isn't that hard, feed it into the frame and let gravity do the work.
eTap's big innovation is that it "goes to eleven."
I prefer di2 but can't see myself riding with a loose cable to my crank risking to break my carbon frame if picked. Changing chain + crank and installing FD, I think I can do that in 15min, throw the e-tube app on windows and fishing a cable in a tight aero frame and that easily doubles the time.TheRich wrote: ↑Wed Feb 13, 2019 4:11 pmPeople commonly change the crankset, the chain, and set up a front derailleur? After all that, snaking the FD wire through the frame isn't a big deal, or you can tie a string around the wire and leave it hanging out the access hole, or you could even tape over the access hole and the wire.
Routing etube wires isn't that hard, feed it into the frame and let gravity do the work.
eTap's big innovation is that it "goes to eleven."
The downside is unnecessary complexity. Numerous small batteries add complexity and possible points of failure.TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Wed Feb 13, 2019 8:43 amWhat's the major downside of wireless in your mind, TheRich? Keep one or two CR2032s in your flat kit if you need. Hell, keep a spare eTap derailleur battery too if you see fit...they weigh next to nothing, and take up next to nothing in volume. In reality you probably won't need even need to do that because if one battery dies, you can swap the front and rear.
Wireless is definitely a convenience and it comes with minimal cons IMO. The one major pain in the ass with SRAM eTap is the terrible shifting FD. Wires aren't objectively better as a whole, just different.
Shimano will go wireless when they figure out how to do it without infringing on SRAM's IP.
While I'd prefer everything to have USB charging and long battery lives, I'll deal with flaky PM battery life because my PM isn't critical to riding my bike. I can stop and fix it, or I can live without power data for that ride. A dead derailleur, otoh, IS critical. Even a low Di2 battery, which allows some functionality, puts a huge dent in enjoying the ride.
You forgot to mention the convenience that eTap provides in normal usage, btw. I see Di2 like tubeless, both options require work (although it is less than with cables). In the non-typical case of building up a bike, you run the wires through the frame (literally taking five minutes because I just did it), but then charging is easier. In the case of a pre-built bike, charging is just easier (and less frequent).
I'm actually kind of curious what higher mileage eTap users do to keep their batteries charged. I charge my Di2 every month because that's the only interval I can remember and if I forget here and there it doesn't matter. From what I've read, that's the minimum for eTap, and forgetting can have major consequences.
The level of fussing going on about four inches of exposed wire going to the rear derailleur is mind boggling.
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But can you do this with Duraace/Ultegra FD at the same time? I just need the XT/XTR rear derailleur for the capacity...Ritxis wrote: ↑Wed Feb 13, 2019 2:52 pmMagicShite wrote: ↑Wed Feb 13, 2019 2:01 pmDon't really care about 12 speed to be honest, but the Road AXS compatibility with eagle derailleurs really turned me on.
I just wished shimano could do something like this, especially mechanically. The current Di2 Doesn't allow you to mix and match derailleurs, which is a bummer.
I really appreciate a 11-40 cassette. It would make hunting KOMs so much easier for some of the climbs I have here.
You know you can use Ultegra/Dura-ace Di2 levers with XT/XTR rear derailleurs???
You don't have to use the etube app, ever. I rode my Synapse for years without plugging it into a computer.pedale wrote: ↑Wed Feb 13, 2019 4:29 pmI prefer di2 but can't see myself riding with a loose cable to my crank risking to break my carbon frame if picked. Changing chain + crank and installing FD, I think I can do that in 15min, throw the e-tube app on windows and fishing a cable in a tight aero frame and that easily doubles the time.TheRich wrote: ↑Wed Feb 13, 2019 4:11 pmPeople commonly change the crankset, the chain, and set up a front derailleur? After all that, snaking the FD wire through the frame isn't a big deal, or you can tie a string around the wire and leave it hanging out the access hole, or you could even tape over the access hole and the wire.
Routing etube wires isn't that hard, feed it into the frame and let gravity do the work.
eTap's big innovation is that it "goes to eleven."
Like I said, you can just tape the wire to the seat tube, leaving an unobtrusive looking stripe around it. In any case, that's a rare occurrence and not even close to the hardest part of what is already a relatively time consuming process.
So is it any louder?
But it goes to eleven...
I have Di2 and prefer wired over wireless for my bike. But wireless has benefits to other 'types' of bikes, like a travel bike (one with a breakable frame) or perhaps a MTB. Also one day I wish to get electronic shifting for my tandem. Running an internal wire inside a tandem frame is tricky. Because you can't use the top tube as the captain's seatpost cuts off access via the top tube. And going through the BB is tricky because you have an eccentric BB so the wire has to go through the eccentric. At the moment I can't use eTap AXS on the tandem because I can't get an XDR driver for my special tandem hub.
Running low on the Di2 battery did happen to me twice. Not because I forgot to charge it frequently but due to the extreme cold temp. that caused the battery to go from half empty to empty. When riding in the extreme cold (<25F) one has to make sure any kind of rechargeble battery is at least 70% full. But I was able to limp home with a functional RD. Now in the winter I make a habit of charging my Di2 battery once every two weeks, at a minimum, regardless of what the battery level indicator says. In the summer my charge frequence is much longer. The same cold/battery issue will happen to eTap too, but maybe more so since the battery's capacity is way less than Di2's.
Running low on the Di2 battery did happen to me twice. Not because I forgot to charge it frequently but due to the extreme cold temp. that caused the battery to go from half empty to empty. When riding in the extreme cold (<25F) one has to make sure any kind of rechargeble battery is at least 70% full. But I was able to limp home with a functional RD. Now in the winter I make a habit of charging my Di2 battery once every two weeks, at a minimum, regardless of what the battery level indicator says. In the summer my charge frequence is much longer. The same cold/battery issue will happen to eTap too, but maybe more so since the battery's capacity is way less than Di2's.
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TheRich wrote: ↑Wed Feb 13, 2019 4:47 pm
I'm actually kind of curious what higher mileage eTap users do to keep their batteries charged. I charge my Di2 every month because that's the only interval I can remember and if I forget here and there it doesn't matter. From what I've read, that's the minimum for eTap, and forgetting can have major consequences.
I simply own several sets of batteries (more than one eTap bike) and two chargers. Every 2 weeks, I replace the batteries regardless of remaining charge. It’s not hard. As soon as I install the freshly charged batteries, the partially drained set goes on the two chargers.
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