Serious question: Why is DUB better? Better than what?Alexbn921 wrote: Dub is better than GXP and fits most frames.
When will you buy eTap AXS?
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Supposedly because it can still use large enough bearings that roll efficiently and have long wear life while also having the increased weight/stiffness ratio of a larger spindle diameter.
In actual practice - who knows. Have never heard of anyone having issues with the newest 8 bolt gxp arms, and think the weight diffference is negligible.
Gxp is a pretty stupid “standard” anyways with the 24/22 spindle differences only being there to differentiate from shimano.
Would be interesting to see how many people opt for the 8 bolt crankset hack for fitting it to the Dub spiders just to avoid the drab looking Red and Force AXS arms.
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Dub is lighter than GXP and uses standard 30mm bearings with a 1mm reducer. This isolates the possible spindle wear and creaking with direct spindle to bearing interface. It also captures the bearings from both sides like 30mm and Shimano cranks. GXP only has one captured bearing and one floating side. This cause trouble on press fit frames as the bearing can get pushed out/rock in the frame. Having to running GXP in BB90 was one of the main reasons I didn’t buy a Madone. Shimano would have been fine, but they don’t have 12 speed.
IMO Shimano angular contact, double captured, preloaded bearings are the best system. 30 or 29mm spindles are lighter though.
I'm using BBinfinite 1 piece Dub BB with internal bearing alignment sleeve. You can run very high preload as it doesn't change the alignment of the bearings.
Ride fast Take chances
The bearings of DUB are not captured. GXP NDS bearing is.
Rikulau V9 DB Custom < BMC TM02 < Litespeed T1sl Disc < Giant Propel Advanced SL Disc 1 < Propel Adv < TCR Adv SL Disc < KTM Revelator Sky < CAAD 12 Disc < Domane S Disc < Alize < CAAD 10
How real is the faster wear issue? I understand in any given gear ratio you’ll be in a smaller chainring and cassette gear vs the traditional setup, is it linear to total surface area in contact with the chain? So what does that translate to in terms of wear, anybody has the math? I am not familiar with the suntour case.
And I was waiting for the new etap expecting to be able to upgrade with new shifters and derailleurs only. So staying on mech for the foreseeable future.
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And I was waiting for the new etap expecting to be able to upgrade with new shifters and derailleurs only. So staying on mech for the foreseeable future.
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I was more taking of captured between the frame and crank flanges. GPX bearing has no exteral force holding them in the frame. Shimano bearings can't fall out or work out of the frame. Same for 30mm axles.
Ride fast Take chances
GxP DS bearing is pushed by wavy spacer, it's still kind of being captured. In practice I have never experienced moved GxP bearings due to pedaling side force. Anyone care to calculate how much side force towards NDS is needed to push the NDS bearing out? How one should be pedaling to make it happen?
Rikulau V9 DB Custom < BMC TM02 < Litespeed T1sl Disc < Giant Propel Advanced SL Disc 1 < Propel Adv < TCR Adv SL Disc < KTM Revelator Sky < CAAD 12 Disc < Domane S Disc < Alize < CAAD 10
thank you. i just got my groupset from my LBS after waiting for a month and wasn't able to check the contents since I was too excited to go home with it. i should've opened it in the store since the chainset is incorrect (48/35 instead of 46/33 i ordered) and the rotors which were in 6bolt config.
hopefully they can sort out the rotor thing since my new wheelset is in centerlock config already.
question on the blips please.
are the old 11s blips compatible with AXS?
and is it alright if i "fold" or roll the cables?
for some reason, the longer (650mm) cable is cheaper than the shorter (230mm) one with around 20usd difference which i'd rather spend on something else if possible
or should i get the 450mm one if i want to put the buttons on top of my drop bar (almost middle-ish)?
are the old 11s blips compatible with AXS?
and is it alright if i "fold" or roll the cables?
for some reason, the longer (650mm) cable is cheaper than the shorter (230mm) one with around 20usd difference which i'd rather spend on something else if possible
or should i get the 450mm one if i want to put the buttons on top of my drop bar (almost middle-ish)?
Whoa. Missed that possibility. Assume it’s further back in this thread?yinzerniner wrote: ↑Sat Aug 10, 2019 5:03 pmSupposedly because it can still use large enough bearings that roll efficiently and have long wear life while also having the increased weight/stiffness ratio of a larger spindle diameter.
In actual practice - who knows. Have never heard of anyone having issues with the newest 8 bolt gxp arms, and think the weight diffference is negligible.
Gxp is a pretty stupid “standard” anyways with the 24/22 spindle differences only being there to differentiate from shimano.
Would be interesting to see how many people opt for the 8 bolt crankset hack for fitting it to the Dub spiders just to avoid the drab looking Red and Force AXS arms.
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See post here. Requires some sanding/shaving down of the ends of the crankset or the ends of the tabs on the chainrings, but doesn't look like it'll effect structural integrity either way.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=152134&start=1170#p1481901
Pics stolen from OP:
Also see here. This poster seems to imply it required no sanding/removal of carbon from crankarms:
viewtopic.php?t=152134&start=1080#p1471978
Maybe because the first post used GXP crankarms instead of the BB30/BB386 crankarms of the second post? Seems possible, as the thinner 24mm GXP spindle might need a bit thicker carbon arms than the 30mm BB30/BB386 spindle
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Old 11s blips are compatible. Even hacked Shimano sprint shifters are compatible since the blips are just buttons that send a small electrical signal to the blip box or shifter input.zinedrei wrote: ↑Wed Aug 14, 2019 4:49 amquestion on the blips please.
are the old 11s blips compatible with AXS?
and is it alright if i "fold" or roll the cables?
for some reason, the longer (650mm) cable is cheaper than the shorter (230mm) one with around 20usd difference which i'd rather spend on something else if possible
or should i get the 450mm one if i want to put the buttons on top of my drop bar (almost middle-ish)?
List price is all the same for the blips, but if you're looking secondhand then yes 650mm tends to be cheaper than the shorter distances since they're simply not used as much and you have to hide a lot of the extra cable. As for what length to get, only you can decide WRT placement, cost, install, etc.