Cervelo / BBRight Bottom Bracket
Moderator: robbosmans
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- Location: Slovakia
I´m not telling I´m using grease to silence the bb, because my frame is still new and I´m just searching the right stuff to install C-Bear ceramic.
I decided Morgan Aquaproof to be the best because I´d like to avoid retaining compound, that´s the last choice when Morgan will fail.
If you don´t advise any grease in the bb and your site recommends Loctite, is it ok to dry press the bb into the carbon frame, if someone doesn´t want to mess up with Loctite(like me)?
I decided Morgan Aquaproof to be the best because I´d like to avoid retaining compound, that´s the last choice when Morgan will fail.
If you don´t advise any grease in the bb and your site recommends Loctite, is it ok to dry press the bb into the carbon frame, if someone doesn´t want to mess up with Loctite(like me)?
Yes, it’s ok to dry press. At least that way if it’s moving you will hear it right away. If it’s not, you’re good. As long as the BB you’re using is anodized that should prevent the oxidation etc.
But even still, if the fit is good, as it is with Campy Cups and Colnago Threadfit in my case, I still decided to use a little Aquaproof Paste. I don’t even consider it to be close to a grease in the traditional sense and should not be used as such. I use it in lieu of messy antiseize copper based compounds for example, which are still probably best for situations where titanium is involved. But these days were mostly talking about carbon and aluminum interfaces so you want to prevent any oxidation and that’s what the AquaProof Paste is at least marketed to excel at. It doesn’t hurt to give it a shot, but if you hear creaking, that’s movement, so tear it down and do it again with retaining compound and primer.
But then again, it is a Cervelo...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpEFNc1nvxM
But even still, if the fit is good, as it is with Campy Cups and Colnago Threadfit in my case, I still decided to use a little Aquaproof Paste. I don’t even consider it to be close to a grease in the traditional sense and should not be used as such. I use it in lieu of messy antiseize copper based compounds for example, which are still probably best for situations where titanium is involved. But these days were mostly talking about carbon and aluminum interfaces so you want to prevent any oxidation and that’s what the AquaProof Paste is at least marketed to excel at. It doesn’t hurt to give it a shot, but if you hear creaking, that’s movement, so tear it down and do it again with retaining compound and primer.
But then again, it is a Cervelo...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpEFNc1nvxM
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If you are going to press in "dry" then I would suggest some WD-40. It will make it easier to get in and then leak out and evaporate shortly afterwards.Roadrocket wrote: ↑Thu Mar 21, 2019 7:46 pmI´m not telling I´m using grease to silence the bb, because my frame is still new and I´m just searching the right stuff to install C-Bear ceramic.
I decided Morgan Aquaproof to be the best because I´d like to avoid retaining compound, that´s the last choice when Morgan will fail.
If you don´t advise any grease in the bb and your site recommends Loctite, is it ok to dry press the bb into the carbon frame, if someone doesn´t want to mess up with Loctite(like me)?
Hambini Aeronautical Engineer, Polluting YouTube since 2016 - views expressed are my own...
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- Posts: 355
- Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2018 8:43 am
- Location: Slovakia
Morgan Aquaproof paste arrived, I just installed the C-Bear bb. It was very easy job to put it in with this paste, although with the typical horrible noises
Cranks spin very freely.
Cranks spin very freely.
Anyone know the difference between these two C-Bear BB's?
SKU: BB-BBR-386-R
FSA EVO386
THM Clavicula
SRM Origin
Tune Smart Foot
Zipp Vumaquad
Campagnolo Over Torque
Campagnolo Over Torque
SKU: BB-BBR-86-R
Rotor
3D+
3DF
Rex1
Rex2
INpower
Aldhu
Vegast
SRAM DZero Quarq
Cane Creek eeWings
Easton EC90
SKU: BB-BBR-386-R
FSA EVO386
THM Clavicula
SRM Origin
Tune Smart Foot
Zipp Vumaquad
Campagnolo Over Torque
Campagnolo Over Torque
SKU: BB-BBR-86-R
Rotor
3D+
3DF
Rex1
Rex2
INpower
Aldhu
Vegast
SRAM DZero Quarq
Cane Creek eeWings
Easton EC90
SL8 S-Works Project Black - 6.29kg
IG: RhinosWorkshop
IG: RhinosWorkshop
...
SL8 S-Works Project Black - 6.29kg
IG: RhinosWorkshop
IG: RhinosWorkshop
I'm buying a new s5 disc frameset. I'm wondering if tolderances have improved enough that I can go with light sram press in cups. Of should I just be safe and get hambini or bbinfinite bottom bracket?
Are there any recommendations between the two?
Are there any recommendations between the two?
Well having built 2 Asperos recently I can say on that model line there were no bb issues. But that being said, I went with BBinfinite on both. Why not, just set it and forget it. Now all you need to worry about are replacing bearings in the future if they ever wear out.
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- Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2013 10:05 am
Have a token ninja screw together bb in my S5
(Out of stock for Shimano sorry but this is where I got it)
https://www.merlincycles.com/en-au/toke ... 31682.html
You need a tool to install also.
https://www.tokencycling.com/product-p/4630-3sp.htm
It is good.
(Out of stock for Shimano sorry but this is where I got it)
https://www.merlincycles.com/en-au/toke ... 31682.html
You need a tool to install also.
https://www.tokencycling.com/product-p/4630-3sp.htm
It is good.
Not as good as the other threaded together options, where for instance you can remove both bearings with ease. Token's drive side can be problematic. And also I'm not sure whether plastic flange is a good option, or better than fully aluminium insert.
I have a Cervelo R5 Disc and am getting a grinding noise / sensation in certain gears, typically at low cadences. It doesn't sound like creaking, but rather grinding.
Could this be caused by the BB? Perhaps some grit has gotten in there? Not sure how common this issue is...
Could this be caused by the BB? Perhaps some grit has gotten in there? Not sure how common this issue is...
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- Posts: 913
- Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2013 10:05 am
The flange the tool sits on is aluminium on mine. The bearings are housed in an externally coated aluminium shell;1415chris wrote:Not as good as the other threaded together options, where for instance you can remove both bearings with ease. Token's drive side can be problematic. And also I'm not sure whether plastic flange is a good option, or better than fully aluminium insert.
The design seeks to solve the eternal problem of creaking by using a proprietary mixture of plastic and fibreglass over the alloy shell that the bearings sit in. So between the bearing/alloy shell and your alloy or carbon BB shell is a layer of composite material designed to fill the gap and not be noisy.
Have no experience of any other thread together bbs as applicable to the bbright bb.
This one was easy to install, quiet and relatively inexpensive. According to this review the bearings are replaceable.
https://road.cc/content/review/241339-t ... om-bracket
I will worry about that at some point in the future perhaps.
At this point in time it works and was good value imo.
Any tips, at this point, will be like shooting in the dark. Start from removing crank and inspecting situation.tepextate wrote:I have a Cervelo R5 Disc and am getting a grinding noise / sensation in certain gears, typically at low cadences. It doesn't sound like creaking, but rather grinding.
Could this be caused by the BB? Perhaps some grit has gotten in there? Not sure how common this issue is...
On the Ninja subject, Rides of Japan in one of his YT videos showed the issue with the drive side bearing, I mentioned above.
On my both BB-right frames I use Wheelsmfg inserts. This design is free of the Token's issue.
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- Posts: 913
- Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2013 10:05 am
I would like to see that video if you can find a link please.1415chris wrote:
On the Ninja subject, Rides of Japan in one of his YT videos showed the issue with the drive side bearing, I mentioned above.
On my both BB-right frames I use Wheelsmfg inserts. This design is free of the Token's issue.
I don't recall any obvious issues when I installed mine. I should pull the chainset and have a look
All bearings will fail, eventually, and when they eventually do, i-Ride advises: 'The bearings are replaceable in the Ninja BB's. The use of the alloy shell means that the bearings themselves can be drifted out and replaced a number of times. This is one of the benefits over a standard plastic press-fit BB. We do not currently list the bearings themselves on our website but they are available by calling our service team. They are industry standard bearings allowing them to be replaced with bearings from many companies or Token's own TBT/Tiramic bearings'.
https://road.cc/content/review/241339-t ... om-bracket
token ninja bearings are replaceable, and you don't even have to take the cups out the frame
https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/1 ... -bb/page-2
I am sure that there is not a problem with the instalation of this bb. I was referring to the situation when someone would like to replace bearnigs or take them out for the service. These video shows the problem, from 3:46, but worht wathing from the begining to see the difference between ds and nds bearnigs.
https://youtu.be/B21rdTdB1W4
https://youtu.be/B21rdTdB1W4
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