Same here
Colnago SR9 Stem
Moderator: robbosmans
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Wowza, almost US $6500 simply for the disc frameset!
What about the Di2 junction A? Is this using the bar end junction or is there a removable plate for installing in the down tube? From the online images, appears to be a downtube installation.
What about the Di2 junction A? Is this using the bar end junction or is there a removable plate for installing in the down tube? From the online images, appears to be a downtube installation.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
Give it a try but there's no way I would do a sharp 114 degree bend with mechanical cables. I'm sure the stem is designed only for hydraulic lines, which can cope with the tighter bend.
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I'm using the bar end junction. Personally, there's no way I could have that external junction box stuck on the stem. It's what helped me settle on DA rather than Campagnolo.ms6073 wrote:Wowza, almost US $6500 simply for the disc frameset!
What about the Di2 junction A? Is this using the bar end junction or is there a removable plate for installing in the down tube? From the online images, appears to be a downtube installation.
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Yes, any significant bends in a mechanical cable routing create added friction and compromise shifting. A guy wanted me to build his Madone (last years model). Campy mechanical 12sp was out and I said, well... the only way I want to touch that thing is if we go with Campy 12sp, so I could get some experience with it. So he brings over the frame and we throw out all the parts on the floor. I study it all, especially how the cable routing would have to go and just told him flat out... ya know... I just can’t in good conscience recommend doing a mechanical drive train on this bike. So as much as I would have liked to install the new 12sp mechanical, he went with Di2 instead. With some internally routed bikes, the difference in cable bends etc can be no more than with externally routed bikes, so it’s fine. But when you have to internally route through tight bends in bars, stems. headtube, downtube... compromised shifting is all but inevitable. Will it work?... maybe. Will it work as well as it could without all those bends?... not a chance.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
I've had that issue with Campy 11 speed just going though bars with internal routing holes.
I see mechanical Ultegra and Dura Ace all the time on the Madone 9. Do people have shifting problems due to cable bends? Is Campy more susceptible to tight bends?
I see mechanical Ultegra and Dura Ace all the time on the Madone 9. Do people have shifting problems due to cable bends? Is Campy more susceptible to tight bends?
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- Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2018 11:50 pm
Hello ymisyd,
Was the SR9 stem and weird shaped spacers included in the frame purchase or did you have to pay extra for it?
Was the SR9 stem and weird shaped spacers included in the frame purchase or did you have to pay extra for it?
Stem is a standalone purchase - not included with frameset.Dansanmartin wrote: ↑Sun Jul 28, 2019 9:51 amHello ymisyd,
Was the SR9 stem and weird shaped spacers included in the frame purchase or did you have to pay extra for it?
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- Posts: 68
- Joined: Wed May 13, 2015 7:57 pm
Hi, Lovely colour. I have just bought the all white one.
I have a query regarding the red stem bung. I'm fitting Deda Alaneera bar stem combo, and have the bung but it has a small protruding nobble on the top that stops it sitting below the top of the stem. I don't have an SR9 stem, so don't know if there is a notch for the protruding nobble to sit in? It doesn't look like it has a notch in the pictures. Or do you just file it off?
Regards
Nick
I have a query regarding the red stem bung. I'm fitting Deda Alaneera bar stem combo, and have the bung but it has a small protruding nobble on the top that stops it sitting below the top of the stem. I don't have an SR9 stem, so don't know if there is a notch for the protruding nobble to sit in? It doesn't look like it has a notch in the pictures. Or do you just file it off?
Regards
Nick
Bringing this back to the top as I am building up a new C64 disc frameset with DA 9150/70. Having waisted a couple hours on Sunday, I am now forced to take a break while I wait on the arrival of an Abbey Tool OSBB CLG bottom bracket tool as the Park Tool BBT-47 I borrowed is the wrong diamter.
So I am looking for tips on the cable routing in the cradle. Anyone with experience completing this delicate operation have any tid bits of wisdom they can share on how to keep the brake hose and Di2 cable in the tray or is this a two person task? I tried a short segment of heat shrink tubing to help keep the Di2 wire from moving around, but this really did not have the effect I had hoped since I think the diameter of the heat shring was too large.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
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Two responses:
First, do not file down the nub on the "bung". If you look closely at the SR9 stem towards the front of the steerer tube, you will see the small female notch for the male nub.
Second, my advice to building up the stem and internal calling is NOT to attach the cables to the levers until after you have everything on the stem tightened down. It's definitely a one man job. Just go slowly and methodically while linking up the cables in the plastic stem bottom. You don't need shrink hose at all but I could see why you might have wanted to try it. Just lay the di2 cable down adjacent to one of the hydraulic lines.
First, do not file down the nub on the "bung". If you look closely at the SR9 stem towards the front of the steerer tube, you will see the small female notch for the male nub.
Second, my advice to building up the stem and internal calling is NOT to attach the cables to the levers until after you have everything on the stem tightened down. It's definitely a one man job. Just go slowly and methodically while linking up the cables in the plastic stem bottom. You don't need shrink hose at all but I could see why you might have wanted to try it. Just lay the di2 cable down adjacent to one of the hydraulic lines.