Trek Emonda ALR Disc - possible to run with Di2???

[Wildstyle5000]

Hi

I have a Trek Émonda ALR disc Frame on Order and want to build it with a Shimano Ultegra Disc (R8050) groupset.
I just saw that the bike has external cabeling for the rear derailleur.

Does anyone know how to fit the di2 cable for the rear derailleur? Is there a hole in the rear dropout for the cable? Maybe someone can post a foto of his bike...

Thanks for the support!!!

[Slack]

I have an Emonda ALR disc and there isn't a reasonable way to run Di2 unless you want to drill some holes or run some of the cables externally. The chainstay doesn't have routing for a rear mech wire and there isn't a hole in the seat tube for a front mech. I ended up using mechanical because I didn't want to run the cables externally.

[Wildstyle5000]

Thanks a lot...
That is really surprising and disappointing at the same time.
I will switch to mechanical most probably...

[Wildstyle5000]

That’s a difficult question, maybe I go with di2 anyway.
In that case i would have to drill holes into the frame. Would you recommend this? What tools to use? A normal drill?

[Slack]

I don't think drilling the seat tube for the front mech cable will be much of a problem. Where I decided that it was too much work was the rear drop out. What you're looking at is what appears to be a 1 piece forged dropout welded into the end of the seat and chain stay. That being what I'm assuming, you won't be able to drill straight through it with a large enough bit to run a Di2 cable through it without risking the strength of the joint, I would also say that the chain stay is not large enough to take you drilling a 4mm hole in it to pass a cable through either.

[bedampft]

That drivetrain looks horrible.

[Wildstyle5000]

@slack: thanks for the support! I have finally decided to go with etap. I will switch it from my canyon to the ALR and will install the di2 on the canyon...
I will post fotos of the build on this page...

[Slack]

That drivetrain looks horrible.

Thanks for you input, choad.

It's a winter bike that does 200-250 miles a week in all weathers so of course it gets dirty. Bikes are for riding.

[saverin]

Calling all ALR owners and those who have worked with the frameset!!! I poseted this in another thread, but also trying here...

I am considering the Emonda ALR frame to replace my chinese carbon frame and I need your help! I intend to swap my Campy EPS 11s groupset to this frame and I need some questions answered. I have seen a few builds with Di2 already, so I know it's possible, but I need some clarification.

I know i may need to drill out the threded hole for mech cable guide routing pictured below, but i need to know what else will be required:

• is there a hole connecting chainstay to BB shell? - I have looked at frames in a local shop and I know there is a hole at the back of the chainstay where the RD cable can exit.

• is there a hole connecting the seat tube to BB shell? (for seat tube battery mount and cable routing)

• is there a hole connecting down tube to BB shell? (so I don't have to run cables from interface outside frame temporarily)

[FIJIGabe]

I don't have a specific answer for the ALR, but I can tell you what is present on my Crockett, with internal Di2 (I know, not EPS), and, if the holes are the same, how you will need to wire the bike, because it isn't the standard Di2 wiring:

There is a small hole from each tube into the BB shell (except the downtube), large enough to feed wires through, but not large enough to fit any of the junction ports. Also, you'll notice that it is impossible to fit the Junction B in the BB shell. The Junction A goes in the standard position (on the stem), but the Junction B will only fit in the seat tube. I have it setup the following way: battery --> Bluetooth module --> Junction B.

If the wiring on the ALR goes through the downtube, but exits before the BB shell, you're going to have to feed the cables through the downtube, then up the enlargened hole in the BB (where you modify the threaded hole - make sure to chamfer the edge to avoid cutting the wire), then up through the BB, into the seat tube. The only way to do this is to feed it backwards (connect it to the Junction B, then using the Park Tools cable threading kit, run it UP the downtube).

Routing the wiring to the chainstay is relatively easy, because there's a small hole in the BB that leads out to the chainstay. On the Crockett, there's a pinch point to allow for wider tires and mud clearance, that my not be present on the ALR.

Good luck, and post some photos!

[saverin]

Here it is. Took some cutting and soldering of wires. Will post more photos shortly...just excited to be done (almost).

[pocari123]

You've all convinced me to go etap for this frame


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[GothicCastle]

Here it is. Took some cutting and soldering of wires. Will post more photos shortly...just excited to be done (almost).

This is excellent. Definitely post more photos.

[Sock3t]

Here it is. Took some cutting and soldering of wires. Will post more photos shortly...just excited to be done (almost).

IMG_0778.jpg

Love the colour.

Please get the barend junction! it cleans the bike up so much.

[saverin]

Love the colour.

Please get the barend junction! it cleans the bike up so much.

I would love to...but Campy doesn't make one for V3 EPS