Swapping Campag mechanical for EPS - advice needed!
Moderator: robbosmans
Hi,
As the title suggests. I’ve been on Campag website but their videos have some years now. Fitting the battery, for instance, is shown with a V2 model.
Here, Portugal, one in every 1000 cyclists use Campag, and I don’t know anyone using EPS here, and I live in the capital, Lisbon! Certainly I don’t know everyone but almost every people here uses Shimano, and only a few SRAM. Campag is a dying bread here.
So I’m looking for the best advices from the people who’s been there and already assembled an EPS groupset before.
Reading from this website, I’ve already learned that rattling is an issue because of the middle connectors. Some use opposing zip ties, others use foam around the connectors.
I’ve an aero frame and seat post. I’ve already learned that the battery can go down the seat tube or the seat post.
Those are only 2 of the many doubts that I have regarding assembling this kit (Record EPS V3), as it should, and try to avoid future issues (like the magnetic band not working regarding the battery position).
Any tips, whatever they are (if constructive of course), are really welcome.
Thanks!
As the title suggests. I’ve been on Campag website but their videos have some years now. Fitting the battery, for instance, is shown with a V2 model.
Here, Portugal, one in every 1000 cyclists use Campag, and I don’t know anyone using EPS here, and I live in the capital, Lisbon! Certainly I don’t know everyone but almost every people here uses Shimano, and only a few SRAM. Campag is a dying bread here.
So I’m looking for the best advices from the people who’s been there and already assembled an EPS groupset before.
Reading from this website, I’ve already learned that rattling is an issue because of the middle connectors. Some use opposing zip ties, others use foam around the connectors.
I’ve an aero frame and seat post. I’ve already learned that the battery can go down the seat tube or the seat post.
Those are only 2 of the many doubts that I have regarding assembling this kit (Record EPS V3), as it should, and try to avoid future issues (like the magnetic band not working regarding the battery position).
Any tips, whatever they are (if constructive of course), are really welcome.
Thanks!
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- Posts: 1929
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- Location: Winnipeg Canada
I just did an EPS setup on my Tarmac SL5.. it was my first... I did what you did, I watched the EPS videos on youtube... I thought the procedure was very simple.. the battery setup in the post was simple (I have a round post, I see you have aero) but I know right from Specialized that the V3 battery with the rubber 27.2 insert around it works fine in the new Venge aero post and the SL6 D post... routing the wires was simple for me as well... I bought the Campy magnetic guide, had the wires fed in the frame in 6 minutes.. rattle wise, yes I can hear one in there, most likely the one in the downtube at the connector as you said... the actual setup itself, just followed the videos for the setup and it appears to be shifting fine!
That's great news. Thanks!ParisCarbon wrote: ↑Sun Nov 25, 2018 10:11 pmI just did an EPS setup on my Tarmac SL5.. it was my first... I did what you did, I watched the EPS videos on youtube... I thought the procedure was very simple.. the battery setup in the post was simple (I have a round post, I see you have aero) but I know right from Specialized that the V3 battery with the rubber 27.2 insert around it works fine in the new Venge aero post and the SL6 D post... routing the wires was simple for me as well... I bought the Campy magnetic guide, had the wires fed in the frame in 6 minutes.. rattle wise, yes I can hear one in there, most likely the one in the downtube at the connector as you said... the actual setup itself, just followed the videos for the setup and it appears to be shifting fine!
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- Posts: 1929
- Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 5:39 am
- Location: Winnipeg Canada
No prob.. the mycampy app is also available for firmware downloading.. pretty sure anything you purchase now will have the latest firmware installed.. and the shifting is already set to "race" so I didnt even need the app... in all honesty one of the biggest PITA during the setup was actually getting the DTI to connect to my phone!! (Old S4 Mini) Plus I think the bluetooth from my Neo was interfering...naavt wrote: ↑Mon Nov 26, 2018 11:02 pmThat's great news. Thanks!ParisCarbon wrote: ↑Sun Nov 25, 2018 10:11 pmI just did an EPS setup on my Tarmac SL5.. it was my first... I did what you did, I watched the EPS videos on youtube... I thought the procedure was very simple.. the battery setup in the post was simple (I have a round post, I see you have aero) but I know right from Specialized that the V3 battery with the rubber 27.2 insert around it works fine in the new Venge aero post and the SL6 D post... routing the wires was simple for me as well... I bought the Campy magnetic guide, had the wires fed in the frame in 6 minutes.. rattle wise, yes I can hear one in there, most likely the one in the downtube at the connector as you said... the actual setup itself, just followed the videos for the setup and it appears to be shifting fine!
Will I need the tool for disengaging the connectors if I need to? Or can I disengage them without it?ParisCarbon wrote: ↑Tue Nov 27, 2018 12:33 am
No prob.. the mycampy app is also available for firmware downloading.. pretty sure anything you purchase now will have the latest firmware installed.. and the shifting is already set to "race" so I didnt even need the app... in all honesty one of the biggest PITA during the setup was actually getting the DTI to connect to my phone!! (Old S4 Mini) Plus I think the bluetooth from my Neo was interfering...
My (6 years on EPS) comments:
1. Front derailleur needs to be perfect (2mm clearance, outer edge of cage in line with chainring). Chain catcher required (see FD-SR003).
2. Yes, put some foam around the downtube wire.
3. EPSv3 connects to Garmin 520. So, you can see the gears you are in.
4. I have the connector tool, but it really isn't necessary for casual use.
5. I never bothered with the magnet tool.
6. Some people shrink-wrap the EPS wire to the brake cable instead of the campy wrap. Looks very clean.
1. Front derailleur needs to be perfect (2mm clearance, outer edge of cage in line with chainring). Chain catcher required (see FD-SR003).
2. Yes, put some foam around the downtube wire.
3. EPSv3 connects to Garmin 520. So, you can see the gears you are in.
4. I have the connector tool, but it really isn't necessary for casual use.
5. I never bothered with the magnet tool.
6. Some people shrink-wrap the EPS wire to the brake cable instead of the campy wrap. Looks very clean.
to
You may want to get a fishing tool similar to this
https://www.amazon.com/Claw-type-magnet ... +led&psc=1
One of the best investments I've made...
BTW, (and sorry for starting a side discussion...)
With my v3, on Garmin, I can only see the gear I've just changed to for the first 5-10 seconds. After that, the display switches to 0 (zero). Anybody else experiencing this?
Thanks for your tips joeyb1000!joeyb1000 wrote:My (6 years on EPS) comments:
2. Yes, put some foam around the downtube wire.
3. EPSv3 connects to Garmin 520. So, you can see the gears you are in.
About 2. Do you mean around the whole wire or just the connectors?
About 3. I’m a Wahoo Bolt user and I think it has the same functionality if I’m not mistaken.
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thanks mate nice to know. I plan to switch EPS in near future. I have now mechanical Super Record.joeyb1000 wrote: ↑Tue Nov 27, 2018 9:03 pmMy (6 years on EPS) comments:
1. Front derailleur needs to be perfect (2mm clearance, outer edge of cage in line with chainring). Chain catcher required (see FD-SR003).
2. Yes, put some foam around the downtube wire.
3. EPSv3 connects to Garmin 520. So, you can see the gears you are in.
4. I have the connector tool, but it really isn't necessary for casual use.
5. I never bothered with the magnet tool.
6. Some people shrink-wrap the EPS wire to the brake cable instead of the campy wrap. Looks very clean.
2. I used this stuff, and did the whole wire inside the downtube https://www.ebay.com/itm/DMI-Tube-Foam- ... :rk:1:pf:0naavt wrote: ↑Wed Nov 28, 2018 11:06 amThanks for your tips joeyb1000!joeyb1000 wrote:My (6 years on EPS) comments:
2. Yes, put some foam around the downtube wire.
3. EPSv3 connects to Garmin 520. So, you can see the gears you are in.
About 2. Do you mean around the whole wire or just the connectors?
About 3. I’m a Wahoo Bolt user and I think it has the same functionality if I’m not mistaken.
Enviado do meu iPhone usando o Tapatalk
Just an added comment: I have EPS on three bikes, and it has been much more reliable/foolproof than I ever expected.
- spookyload
- Posts: 1048
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I put the battery of my V3 in the aero profile seat mast of my Look 695. The 27.2 kit worked just fine. You don’t need the tool for separating the connectors. Just be careful and pull them apart by the plastic pieces. For adjusting the front derailleur, I bought the campy alignment gauge years ago. It clips on to the top of the big ring and you just lower the FD till it touches, then align the Che with the mark on top of it. Best $16 I have ever spent. No guessing or eyeballing it.
Went with your suggestion and bought the Campag alignment tool. Thanks!spookyload wrote:I put the battery of my V3 in the aero profile seat mast of my Look 695. The 27.2 kit worked just fine. You don’t need the tool for separating the connectors. Just be careful and pull them apart by the plastic pieces. For adjusting the front derailleur, I bought the campy alignment gauge years ago. It clips on to the top of the big ring and you just lower the FD till it touches, then align the Che with the mark on top of it. Best $16 I have ever spent. No guessing or eyeballing it.
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Another question to experts here.
Here's the EPS assembling kit that came with my frameset:
Almost all bits are self explanatory. Even the battery holder has the seatpost shape. Nonetheless, I'm really struggling to find what the 4 pieces on the plastic bags are for.
Any help appreciated! Thanks.
Here's the EPS assembling kit that came with my frameset:
Almost all bits are self explanatory. Even the battery holder has the seatpost shape. Nonetheless, I'm really struggling to find what the 4 pieces on the plastic bags are for.
Any help appreciated! Thanks.
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Two EPS bikes. Trek Madone 5.2 from 2012, was mechanical only. Things are okay, no rattling but hard to tell over the the BB90 bottom bracket (never again). Other is an old italian steel bike with cables ran under the drain area in the BB. Frame protector tape holds the rear derailleur cable in place.
The front chainring thing.... I'm ashamed to say this took me 2 years to find out, but there are two trims for the front while the rear only has one trim. So zero set your cassette (spocket 2 and 10) and you can trim it so it moves all positions left or right. However, the Front has zero setting (hold both mode) but each position can be trimmed independently. This has really helped tuning the front chainring (old italian steel I cheaped out and put a potenza crankset... but it's HO due to wanting ultra-torque / availability). The Hydraulic shifters are detectable by the EPS interface and it modifies the shift profile as a result, so runing a H0 Crank wasn't ideal until I realized I could trim the high and low position independently.
Some frames the magnet tool will be useful, but it's a one time thing. Alternatively tape a magnet onto the end to drag it through.
Few mentions of Garmin and Wahoo. Garmin supports Shifting AND Remote Control (left mode = lap, right mode = change screen) while Wahoo does support Shifting but not Remote. (wahoo supports the customizable DI2 buttons which is not the same).
If you heat shrink your cables to the brake make sure it's the kind that doesn't have melting adhesive in it. It can be a bit of a disaster if you do.
The front chainring thing.... I'm ashamed to say this took me 2 years to find out, but there are two trims for the front while the rear only has one trim. So zero set your cassette (spocket 2 and 10) and you can trim it so it moves all positions left or right. However, the Front has zero setting (hold both mode) but each position can be trimmed independently. This has really helped tuning the front chainring (old italian steel I cheaped out and put a potenza crankset... but it's HO due to wanting ultra-torque / availability). The Hydraulic shifters are detectable by the EPS interface and it modifies the shift profile as a result, so runing a H0 Crank wasn't ideal until I realized I could trim the high and low position independently.
Some frames the magnet tool will be useful, but it's a one time thing. Alternatively tape a magnet onto the end to drag it through.
Few mentions of Garmin and Wahoo. Garmin supports Shifting AND Remote Control (left mode = lap, right mode = change screen) while Wahoo does support Shifting but not Remote. (wahoo supports the customizable DI2 buttons which is not the same).
If you heat shrink your cables to the brake make sure it's the kind that doesn't have melting adhesive in it. It can be a bit of a disaster if you do.
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- Posts: 1929
- Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 5:39 am
- Location: Winnipeg Canada
Im guessing those parts in the bag are for if you wanted to mount the battery down the seattube on the bottle mounts? I see there is a hole cut in there...
If you do the seatpost mount, I wrapped a piece of foam around the top of the battery and taped it.. this way any movement at the top of the battery in teh seatpost , the foam would hit the internals of the post... not the carbon and make noise
If you do the seatpost mount, I wrapped a piece of foam around the top of the battery and taped it.. this way any movement at the top of the battery in teh seatpost , the foam would hit the internals of the post... not the carbon and make noise