BB30 Spacer Size/Options (Specialized S-Works Crankset)

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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Zmon
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Nov 21, 2018 6:35 pm

by Zmon

Just picked up a used quarq S-Works crankset and it did not come with spacers. It looks like I'm missing an alloy drive-side spacer, a non-drive conical spacer, and a non-drive adjustable conical spacer:
Screen Shot 2018-11-21 at 9.42.02 AM.png
Hunting around for details, they look like this:
Screen Shot 2018-11-21 at 9.39.36 AM.png
Screen Shot 2018-11-21 at 9.39.51 AM.png
Screen Shot 2018-11-21 at 9.46.47 AM.png
These seem tricky to locate. Is there another set of spacers I can use that will work just as well? If so is it a matter of trial and error to figure out which one fits the best? Found one shop down in California that might have some of these sitting around but it looks like only for one side. Thanks!

dvq
Posts: 157
Joined: Mon Sep 25, 2017 1:36 pm

by dvq

Your best bet is to visit a specialized dealer and have they order them for you through the specialized warranty department.

by Weenie


motorapido
Posts: 289
Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2010 7:08 pm

by motorapido

As above suggestion is your best option, but for the drive side spacer you can use a standard BB30 bearing shield and probably use the same for the non drive side and then a wave washer to preload the bearings. This is the same as the older Sworks bearing preload system, before they went to the conical spacers with the little grubscrews to take up the preload.
You may still have to use a couple of shim washers to get enough pre load on the bearing. The wave washer should almost be flat when the crank bolt is torqued down. I think both Cannondale use shims to set the bearing preload and SRAM also sell spacer washers / shims.

scale29
Posts: 125
Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 5:40 pm

by scale29

I’ve just fitted my SWorks chainset to my SL6, I had the conical spacers with the grub screw but ended up having to use 2 off the 0.5mm plastic shims and a wave washer to get the cranks to clear the bottom bracket shell. The plastic spacer in your image would have been way too thick to fit on my setup.

Zmon
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Nov 21, 2018 6:35 pm

by Zmon

scale29 wrote:
Wed Nov 21, 2018 7:16 pm
I’ve just fitted my SWorks chainset to my SL6, I had the conical spacers with the grub screw but ended up having to use 2 off the 0.5mm plastic shims and a wave washer to get the cranks to clear the bottom bracket shell. The plastic spacer in your image would have been way too thick to fit on my setup.
Did you end up using the conical spacers with the shims or in place of the shims? The guy I got these from said he ditched the original adjustable Specialized spacer and used a wavy washer instead.

Called up my Spec dealer and they're going to see if these proprietary spacers can be ordered. Hopefully it's a standalone part and not some big bottom bracket package.

scale29
Posts: 125
Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 5:40 pm

by scale29

I used the conical ones on the non drive and then put 2 x .5mm plastic SRAM spacers and a .5mm small diameter metal spacer as the plastic ones dragged on the bearing covers.

I think if you were to use a wave washer and got some other thin plastic shims, you could manage without the conical parts, as they’d do the same job. All you’re looking to do is take up the play between the cranks and bearings as you tighten up. The conical allows this a bit easier is all.

Zmon
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Nov 21, 2018 6:35 pm

by Zmon

scale29 wrote:
Wed Nov 21, 2018 8:12 pm
I used the conical ones on the non drive and then put 2 x .5mm plastic SRAM spacers and a .5mm small diameter metal spacer as the plastic ones dragged on the bearing covers.

I think if you were to use a wave washer and got some other thin plastic shims, you could manage without the conical parts, as they’d do the same job. All you’re looking to do is take up the play between the cranks and bearings as you tighten up. The conical allows this a bit easier is all.
Thanks, did exactly this and it seems to work. Not a lot of room between the spider and the frame (usinga 1x setup but can't imagine an inner chainring fitting).

scale29
Posts: 125
Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 5:40 pm

by scale29

Did you space evenly, either side of the axles? Mine clears a small ring on the frame easily, my issue was moving it far enough to the drive side to make the spider clear the bottom bracket shell. 1st attempt without the spacers and there was contact to the paint.

scale29
Posts: 125
Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 5:40 pm

by scale29

Mine is the non power meter version though, if that makes a difference???? Also, what frame are you using? It’s 100% BB30, not BB30A??

Zmon
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Nov 21, 2018 6:35 pm

by Zmon

Using a 2019 Crux which has the OSBB (BB30), it has the frame holes for a front derailleur cable etc.

Same problem here, the even spacing on both sides is what had me confused. It seemed like I needed an even or more spacers on the drive-side to get the chainring/spider to clear. Measured the BB from bearing to bearing at 68mm and the spindle distance at 70mm, so theoretically I would have 2mm of spacers to use, but it seemed like I would need more to even out the distances on the crankset. Then I found another post on this forum with a simliar problem and it appears the Specialized S-Works crankset is just more offset to the drive-side:

https://weightweenies.starbike.com/foru ... p?t=131800

scale29
Posts: 125
Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 5:40 pm

by scale29

You're right, I measured up today and they seem to be offset 5-6mm to the right with minimal spacers on drive side. very weird, can't beleive they'd make them like that, might need to see how they go, might be switching back to heavier Dura Ace after all!

by Weenie


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