Post your Small budget weight saves

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dereksmalls
Posts: 2305
Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 9:20 pm
Location: New Zealand

by dereksmalls

C36 wrote:
Fri Nov 23, 2018 1:08 am
dereksmalls wrote:Tune cable housing
Read a bit about them but never seen them. What makes them light and anything special using them?
Full housing on my C'dale Hi Mod came to 27g uncut for 5 lengths, brakes and derailleurs, that's what makes them light.

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C36
Posts: 2491
Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2017 3:24 am

by C36

dereksmalls wrote:
C36 wrote:
Fri Nov 23, 2018 1:08 am
dereksmalls wrote:Tune cable housing
Read a bit about them but never seen them. What makes them light and anything special using them?
Full housing on my C'dale Hi Mod came to 27g uncut for 5 lengths, brakes and derailleurs, that's what makes them light.
Both derailleur and brake? Std derailleur housing can’t be used for brakes since they are fragile in compression. Then curious how they are internally.


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Lewn777
Posts: 1266
Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2017 5:35 am

by Lewn777

C36 wrote:
Fri Nov 23, 2018 1:08 am
dereksmalls wrote:Tune cable housing
Read a bit about them but never seen them. What makes them light and anything special using them?


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I estimated 40g weight savings from switching from normal cable housing to Jagwire Elite Link. I think that Tune would be the same or even more savings. Personally I find alloy cable annoying on the front of the bike and it can get noisy when it gets dirty and scratchy on the frame. I like to use it where it's most useful where the brake line exits the frame and goes to the rear brake caliper and the frame to rear derailleur. Then you can use one set on multiple bikes!

dereksmalls
Posts: 2305
Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 9:20 pm
Location: New Zealand

by dereksmalls

C36 wrote:
Fri Nov 23, 2018 2:56 am
dereksmalls wrote:
C36 wrote:
Fri Nov 23, 2018 1:08 am
dereksmalls wrote:Tune cable housing
Read a bit about them but never seen them. What makes them light and anything special using them?
Full housing on my C'dale Hi Mod came to 27g uncut for 5 lengths, brakes and derailleurs, that's what makes them light.
Both derailleur and brake? Std derailleur housing can’t be used for brakes since they are fragile in compression. Then curious how they are internally.
Yes, both brake and derailleur. There are a few of us on here using them for both. Check my build thread, 4ibanez's build thread to see it. It is the inner that you use. The outer is black and can be taken off, then you use the white inner.

JerryLook
Posts: 305
Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2017 2:18 am

by JerryLook

The Tune stuff is this

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 1812888399

I have some on the way to try out. I believe it’s actually mtb brake cable, so using it for brakes and shifting should be fine.
2010 Orbea Opal 54cm
5.97kg

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Kayrehn
Posts: 1776
Joined: Thu Mar 24, 2011 6:06 pm

by Kayrehn

You can get lighter pulley wheels in ebay like J&L 11t ones at 11g for the pair (and they spin easier than the stock ones)

Schmolke Ahead Plug is pretty cheap and can save you weight by doing away with the expander, the top cap and the bolt while still supporting the steerer tube (at least for the top stem bolt).

Corima brake pads will save you quite a lot of weight compared to other pads, if you use carbon wheels.

I actually think bolt tuning isn't very good value for money although the cost of the bolts are low overall.

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Lewn777
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Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2017 5:35 am

by Lewn777

Kayrehn wrote:
Sat Nov 24, 2018 6:34 am
You can get lighter pulley wheels in ebay like J&L 11t ones at 11g for the pair (and they spin easier than the stock ones)

Schmolke Ahead Plug is pretty cheap and can save you weight by doing away with the expander, the top cap and the bolt while still supporting the steerer tube (at least for the top stem bolt).

Corima brake pads will save you quite a lot of weight compared to other pads, if you use carbon wheels.

I actually think bolt tuning isn't very good value for money although the cost of the bolts are low overall.
Those lighter pulley wheels save very little weight and easily die within 5000kms. I tried the same ones. I couldn't recommend them.
We've aready discussed on previous threads that ideally (with input from engineers) both stem bolts need to be supported from inside the steerer on most models of forks. Whilst it is fine to make the decision to run a lightweight expander for yourself, suggesting it as a good idea to others, well I'm just not sure that's wise.

Maybe these suggestions are ideal for a specific hill climbing race bike with low annual mileage. For an everyday training bike for the averagre rider then maybe not.

My idea is:
1. Be as strong, safe and reliable as the orginal part.
2. Be lighter.

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Kayrehn
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Joined: Thu Mar 24, 2011 6:06 pm

by Kayrehn

I get more out of my pulleys, you mean within 5k kms your pulleys refuses to spin? Perhaps it is a matter of maintenance. Saving half the weight over stock sram pulleys, I wouldn't call it insignificant. Yes the expander plug thing was discussed to death. I've used the Ultrastar expander for many years with no issues (pairing it with the humongous Zipp SL Sprint stem) as with many other people and I still have not heard of cases where people had steerer tubes being crushed by stems because of a lack of support from within.

As always on the internet, take advice with some consideration. Contributed my bit of cheap weight saving advice here so that's that and I wouldn't be getting into a debate with Lewn77 on the safety and longevity of parts which is not within the scope of this thread.

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