Lightening up your bar tape?

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
TobinHatesYou
Posts: 4177
Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm

by TobinHatesYou

Marin wrote:
Thu Nov 15, 2018 9:31 am
TobinHatesYou wrote:
Wed Nov 14, 2018 8:37 pm
Don’t put your hands down pretty much ever. If you do that midfall that’s a good way to brake an ulna, humerus, collarbone. If you do it while already on the ground, you’re not significantly affecting your slide. Hold onto your bars until the instant before hitting ground then release and go limp.
That's how you break your shoulder or hips then

1) Your lower body has more natural padding.
2) The femur and pelvis are two of the largest, strongest bones in your body.
3) You’re not diminishing your chances of breaking your hip or shoulder sockets by much, just increasing the chance of a devastating injury to your arm.

I’ve broken my scapula...1% of all skeletal fractures because it’s protected by back muscle and the rib cage. It takes enormous blunt force to do so. Had I attempted to brace the impact my arm down it probably would have snapped my ulna or humerus like a twig, broken my clavicle and the smaller structures in my wrist and elbow.

Don’t put your arm down.
Last edited by TobinHatesYou on Fri Nov 16, 2018 1:27 am, edited 4 times in total.

Pop
Posts: 147
Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 6:43 am

by Pop

Is there any Tesa tape in blue color, with a similar feeling that 51608??? And how about.in white color?? (I'm diving on Tesa website.....)
Thanks!!!

Enviado desde mi ONEPLUS A3003 mediante Tapatalk


by Weenie


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themidge
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Location: underneath sweet Scottish rain

by themidge

If you don't find any, try Velox Tressorex or other cotton tape for a similar feel.
Image

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Wingnut
Posts: 1928
Joined: Sat Jun 23, 2007 12:41 am

by Wingnut

Or Newbaum’s which I hear is nice if you like cotton tape...


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"It's not the destination...it's the ride!"

photek
Posts: 43
Joined: Fri Dec 29, 2017 12:09 am
Location: Geneve

by photek

Broady wrote:
Thu Nov 15, 2018 10:21 am
Pour 10ml of water out of each of your bottles and use tape that is actually nice to use.
:D :lol: :D :) :thumbup:
2019 Trek Emonda SLR, SRAM eTap, eeBrakes, Venn 44 wheelset - 6.4 kg

RocketRacing
Posts: 872
Joined: Thu May 10, 2018 2:43 am

by RocketRacing

photek wrote:
Mon Nov 19, 2018 11:38 am
Broady wrote:
Thu Nov 15, 2018 10:21 am
Pour 10ml of water out of each of your bottles and use tape that is actually nice to use.
:D :lol: :D :) :thumbup:
But the whole point of this forum is to pour 10ml out of each bottle and have lighter tape.

RocketRacing
Posts: 872
Joined: Thu May 10, 2018 2:43 am

by RocketRacing

TobinHatesYou wrote:
Thu Nov 15, 2018 10:54 am
Don’t put your arm down.
I get your point, but will add nuance. You put your arm out, ideally with padded gloves, palm out or pinkie side of the hand out, elbow partly bent... to try to redirect the fall to ensure your head is to not the major/first point of contact. That is priority 1. The secondary goal is for the bent arm to adsorb some impact, and to initiate a roll of the body to transfer energy into a roll vs a direct blunt impact. Injuries are greatly reduced when energy can be turned into rotational energy.

The issue is when people Do the panic reflex “fall on outstretched hand” (FOOSH in medical terms, where the arm is locked straight) and the force usually breaks the wrist in such a direct impact.

Dokas
Posts: 23
Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2016 2:12 pm

by Dokas

Supacaz Suave Bar Tape, glow in the dark

TobinHatesYou
Posts: 4177
Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm

by TobinHatesYou

RocketRacing, that is also incorrect. If you want to roll, you tuck as much as possible...you bring your hands in and maybe protect your face. The more spread out the mass, the less likely you are to roll, it doesn’t matter if you think you’re able to initiate it with your hand hitting the ground...pro tip: that doesn’t work.

Also rolling in most cases is only for a second before you’re actually just sliding. The aim again is to roll with your hips/buttock or the back quarter of your shoulder area to prevent trauma to internal organs.

Anyway holding onto the bars until the last second is effectively tucking the hands and arms in. At the moment of impact, you want to be a rag doll...no tense muscles,

RocketRacing
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Joined: Thu May 10, 2018 2:43 am

by RocketRacing

Dokas wrote:
Mon Nov 19, 2018 3:26 pm
Supacaz Suave Bar Tape, glow in the dark

:-o

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StanK
Posts: 240
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Location: Croatia

by StanK

I thought my Cube cork tape weight cca. 70g with bar end plugs. Yesterday I find out that is 60g. And in the end I managed to do some less overlaping and cut out 10g. So, 50g for relatively thick bar tape is very nice.

And I have Cinelli Original Cork Ribbon bar tape, waiting to put to end all works on position of shifters on handlebar. My guess is that with Cinelli I would drop some 10g more, because it is lighter than Cube tape.

Cca. 40 grams, nice looking and feels good ... I couldn't ask for more.

RocketRacing
Posts: 872
Joined: Thu May 10, 2018 2:43 am

by RocketRacing

TobinHatesYou wrote:
Mon Nov 19, 2018 10:03 pm
RocketRacing, that is also incorrect. If you want to roll, you tuck as much as possible...you bring your hands in and maybe protect your face. The more spread out the mass, the less likely you are to roll, it doesn’t matter if you think you’re able to initiate it with your hand hitting the ground...pro tip: that doesn’t work.

Also rolling in most cases is only for a second before you’re actually just sliding. The aim again is to roll with your hips/buttock or the back quarter of your shoulder area to prevent trauma to internal organs.

Anyway holding onto the bars until the last second is effectively tucking the hands and arms in. At the moment of impact, you want to be a rag doll...no tense muscles,

I think we are both correct and agree. It is just hrd to communicate. What is best also involves speed, rider weight, objects you may hit vs just “road rash” on a flat. Is it a sideways fall, or full forward otb? Somewheres in between.? The “best” fall in each case is different because forces are in different directions vs our anatomy. I have had many “falls” that were very low speed, and a hand on a tree stopped me and the bike from falling. At 30km/hr the strategy is a bit different.

You are right, relaxing is good. And a tucking helps initiate/allow a roll. A stiff outstretched hand trying to “stop” a fall will generally cause more harm than good. Most people’s own body weight would fracture a wrist... ignore flying off a bike. We agree there.

i advocate that People Don’t let the head be the first point of contact if they can avoid it. Use your arm to be the first point of contact if needed. I.e. Use your arm to facilitate the roll in a way that does not cause the head to be the first point of contact. That is basically elbows or wrists to forhead (or whatever)in a barrel style roll, and a bit more outstretched (then quickly elbows to ears when rolling) if you are closer to torpedoing forward head first. If you are truly torpedoing head first... tuck your head down.. whatever it takes for the head to not be the first impact point.

But yeah, if i fall, and my head is flying at a tree (rolling won’t save you) than i will fire that arm out and take the broken wrist to direct my head away from the direct impact every time (which has been never to date).

When sliding on pavement... and not rolling, you should tuck, because forward energy is more safely dissipated rolling (cliffs aside). If you are going too slow to roll, the worst is over anyway...

The irony here is that if speeds are fast enough... we are all rag dolls, even if we start stiff, and you our prayers are the most we have.

RocketRacing
Posts: 872
Joined: Thu May 10, 2018 2:43 am

by RocketRacing

Still waiting for that tessa tape to arrive from Lithuania!

I did some weighing, and some pretty standard black bar tape (not wrapping the tops) was 28g per side. The sram red rubber hood covers were 20g each.

I just fooled around with a bit of hockey tape i had left over... just to see how much of a mess i could make of things. I used a few strips of the original bar tape to add a little padding over the tops of the hoods/bar, and over the top of the drops. Because the tape is tapered, it was pretty seamless once covered with hockey tape, and added mild padding where it is needed most.

I ran out of tape before i could try to cover the hoods, but i think i can do it to reasonable appearance. The issue is the grooves in the hoods. They would need to be filled with something lightweight for a flush final appearance.

Any thoughts? It if looks like crap, i will just use the sram rubber hood covers.

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For this to look acceptable, it will take care... and i question the durability. But i want to try. I already figure that a bbq lighter may help singe off any “fuzzies”

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kdawg
Posts: 125
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by kdawg

How much does 15mm of steerer and a spacer weigh? I’d be fixing that before removing the rubber hood.
I'm left handed, if that matters.

by Weenie


Wookski
Posts: 1099
Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2016 5:51 am

by Wookski

kdawg wrote:
Sun Dec 16, 2018 9:01 am
How much does 15mm of steerer and a spacer weigh? I’d be fixing that before removing the rubber hood.
There’s half a kilo to be saved by swapping out the mavics for some ax tubs :noidea:

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