New Continental 5000S Tires - Tubeless Compatible
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The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
I rode 150km over the weekend. Road conditions were terrible. Dirt, sand, gravel, potholes, etc. Some sections were for a gravel bike.
Checked the tyres at home once I cleaned the bike (was covered in mud and dirt). Front wheel: like new. Rear: 1 tiny flint of less than 1mm got stuck. I removed it. Now there is a tiny gap. Shall I put some glue in there? Coming from clinchers I usually don’t do anything apart from picking out the flints, but I was wondering if with tubeless I need to fill the little gap left by the flint.
So my experience is very positive.
Checked the tyres at home once I cleaned the bike (was covered in mud and dirt). Front wheel: like new. Rear: 1 tiny flint of less than 1mm got stuck. I removed it. Now there is a tiny gap. Shall I put some glue in there? Coming from clinchers I usually don’t do anything apart from picking out the flints, but I was wondering if with tubeless I need to fill the little gap left by the flint.
So my experience is very positive.
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I wouldn't since it didn't puncture. Usually it is recommended to add the glue that comes with the plugs on the outside of the tire too in case of a puncture (if you are fixing it with a repair patch) and leave it overnight but not sure if it's needed for a 1mm gap.
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zefs wrote: ↑Wed Mar 27, 2019 8:49 amI wouldn't since it didn't puncture. Usually it is recommended to add the glue that comes with the plugs on the outside of the tire too in case of a puncture (if you are fixing it with a repair patch) and leave it overnight but not sure if it's needed for a 1mm gap.
Which glue is that?
you can use:
VULCANIZING CEMENT TYRE REPAIR GLUE
https://www.amazon.co.uk/XTRA-SEAL-VULC ... B002PMRDTM
or similar .... superglue does not work for long
VULCANIZING CEMENT TYRE REPAIR GLUE
https://www.amazon.co.uk/XTRA-SEAL-VULC ... B002PMRDTM
or similar .... superglue does not work for long
Trek Emonda SL6
Miyata One Thousand
Miyata One Thousand
I have used the Repair Extreme glue by Pattex with the tiny holes made by flints. The glue stays elastic after drying, so it works well with the the elasticity of the tyre.
Comes with the repair patches, mine was Weldtide and they call it rubber solution.deepakvrao wrote: ↑Wed Mar 27, 2019 12:22 pmzefs wrote: ↑Wed Mar 27, 2019 8:49 amI wouldn't since it didn't puncture. Usually it is recommended to add the glue that comes with the plugs on the outside of the tire too in case of a puncture (if you are fixing it with a repair patch) and leave it overnight but not sure if it's needed for a 1mm gap.
Which glue is that?
300km on my 28s now and love them. Can't notice the weight and boy do they fly!
Comfort is great too. I'm around 87kg and runnig 85F and 90R.
Comfort is great too. I'm around 87kg and runnig 85F and 90R.
SL8 S-Works Project Black - 6.29kg
IG: RhinosWorkshop
IG: RhinosWorkshop
This one? Even to fill small gaps caused by removed flints which did not cause a puncture? Or should I leave them as they are?
https://www.robertdyas.co.uk/loctite-su ... tra-gel-3g
825.6km so far on the Conti 5000 TL .... brilliant, fast, Zero punctures and lots of riding has been on shitty pot holed roads
so, previously, I used to rotate tyres at 1000km, then ride for another 1000km, then replace both with new.
I recently read on this forum that it's always best to keep the best tyre on the front. So, do I just ride these as they are mounted without rotating for another 1000 km (or maybe more), then replace both, and keep the front as a spare? (I should reach 1000km by Sunday)
so, previously, I used to rotate tyres at 1000km, then ride for another 1000km, then replace both with new.
I recently read on this forum that it's always best to keep the best tyre on the front. So, do I just ride these as they are mounted without rotating for another 1000 km (or maybe more), then replace both, and keep the front as a spare? (I should reach 1000km by Sunday)
Trek Emonda SL6
Miyata One Thousand
Miyata One Thousand
For myself, it means to have the front the best I can/want. That would mean that when a tyre needs to be replaced (this will be the rear) the one on the front gets shifted to the rear, and a new ones goes on the front. So at the very start of two new tyres (both front and rear) the front stays the same until the rear needs chucking out at which time it (the one in front) gets moved to the rear. confused?
Less is more.
Thank You .... makes good sense .... buy one a time, and put the new to the frontshimmeD wrote: ↑Thu Mar 28, 2019 8:45 pmFor myself, it means to have the front the best I can/want. That would mean that when a tyre needs to be replaced (this will be the rear) the one on the front gets shifted to the rear, and a new ones goes on the front. So at the very start of two new tyres (both front and rear) the front stays the same until the rear needs chucking out at which time it (the one in front) gets moved to the rear. confused?
Trek Emonda SL6
Miyata One Thousand
Miyata One Thousand
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com