I would guess not. Schwalbe have been making fully vulcanised tyres with tan sidewalls for while now. It's purely cosmetic and has none of the possible advantages (less rubber covering the sidewall) or disadvantages (lip where tread strip is glued on interfering with airflow) of a traditional tyre.SamD wrote: ↑Thu Jun 11, 2020 8:50 amWould you guys say these would have cotton-type sidewalls? I'd be interest to see how the tubed version would stack up against Turbo Cottons, given the GP5000s low rolling resistance. If they're not of a cotton-type, their ride feel might be a bit different than Turbo Cottons, right? Less supple?
New Continental 5000S Tires - Tubeless Compatible
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
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Thanks!
So let's say Warren Barguil is testing these, and these seem to be pretty much production-ready from what I can see in the photo (logos etc)... What would be a realistic timeframe to expect these to be launched? I'm in for new tires in a few months and want tan walls. I've got GP5000 TL atm, contemplating these or butyl or latex tubed Turbo Cottons...
So let's say Warren Barguil is testing these, and these seem to be pretty much production-ready from what I can see in the photo (logos etc)... What would be a realistic timeframe to expect these to be launched? I'm in for new tires in a few months and want tan walls. I've got GP5000 TL atm, contemplating these or butyl or latex tubed Turbo Cottons...
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Quick review
Fitting them on non-TL older Campagnolo Bora's was impossible without using one of these. For your reference, in about 15 years of in cycling I've never had to use a lever. Never.
- the width is quite accurate (25.5mm on a 17C rim)
- strings are coming of the bead of the rear tire. Not really a problem but not really how it should be.
- ride quality: very good.
After 2500 km I decided to swap the rear and front tire. The rear tires was showing some marks of wear, but it didn't square out just yet.
I decided this was a good time to do two experiments. Or "challenges" as these stupid influencers tend to say these days.
1. Would it be possible to mount a standaard butyl inner tube without using a tire lever? I've made a video, it's in Dutch but I'm sure you'll understand.
2. Would it be possible to mount the tubeless tire without an innner tube without using a lever. Another short video.
Next up was the popping. This turned out to be much harder than on initial installation! Back then, I simply used my small compressor, but this turned out to be insufficient this time. For the rear wheel, I had to use a CO2 cartrigde to get it done.
Fitting them on non-TL older Campagnolo Bora's was impossible without using one of these. For your reference, in about 15 years of in cycling I've never had to use a lever. Never.
- the width is quite accurate (25.5mm on a 17C rim)
- strings are coming of the bead of the rear tire. Not really a problem but not really how it should be.
- ride quality: very good.
After 2500 km I decided to swap the rear and front tire. The rear tires was showing some marks of wear, but it didn't square out just yet.
I decided this was a good time to do two experiments. Or "challenges" as these stupid influencers tend to say these days.
1. Would it be possible to mount a standaard butyl inner tube without using a tire lever? I've made a video, it's in Dutch but I'm sure you'll understand.
2. Would it be possible to mount the tubeless tire without an innner tube without using a lever. Another short video.
Next up was the popping. This turned out to be much harder than on initial installation! Back then, I simply used my small compressor, but this turned out to be insufficient this time. For the rear wheel, I had to use a CO2 cartrigde to get it done.
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70 kg running 80 psi on 19mm (internal) rims. Seems I can go a bit lower!andyJC wrote:I ride at 79-80PSI - weighing 77kgGrouperdawg wrote: ↑Sat Jun 06, 2020 8:19 pmI just ordered two gp5000s tubeless for dtswiss wheels
Was wondering what pressure I should ride them at. I weigh 195 lbs and usually ride at 105 psi
I'm roughly the same weight and run 80/85psi.
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I have them on Borg 45 disc wheels and they were "a lot" harder for me to fit than other TL tyres, (bead is really wide so only 1 bead fits in the centre with these and it was real effort to push the first bead out when putting the 2nd bead in). Eventually did it through brute strength and a bit of leaving out in the sun, more than skill.
Anyway, my verdict isn't scentific, but either i've suddenly got a lot faster or they roll "amazingly" well. Handling is great too, as is comfort.
Only problem is the wear. I'm 194cm and 100kgs and using 90-100psi generally. After only 3 or 4 rides there were several cuts on the tyre and although no punctures I couldn't believe the number of cuts from general Essex roads. So was very concerned, but after 10 weeks and 1500km they now have a few more 1cm length shallow cuts and lots of smaller marks, but the general tyre wear indicators still look good and not had to stop for a single puncture. It is a lot more damage than a 4000 and a lot more than an RBCC tyre, but the speed difference for me is so noticeable I don't think i could face using anything else now in summer. Albeit I would recommend a really good high pressure sealant (stans race for me, not the regular stans which i don't think handles 90psi small cuts so well).
So despite the cuts, and a bit of nervousness, they get a thumbs up from this heavier rider.
Anyway, my verdict isn't scentific, but either i've suddenly got a lot faster or they roll "amazingly" well. Handling is great too, as is comfort.
Only problem is the wear. I'm 194cm and 100kgs and using 90-100psi generally. After only 3 or 4 rides there were several cuts on the tyre and although no punctures I couldn't believe the number of cuts from general Essex roads. So was very concerned, but after 10 weeks and 1500km they now have a few more 1cm length shallow cuts and lots of smaller marks, but the general tyre wear indicators still look good and not had to stop for a single puncture. It is a lot more damage than a 4000 and a lot more than an RBCC tyre, but the speed difference for me is so noticeable I don't think i could face using anything else now in summer. Albeit I would recommend a really good high pressure sealant (stans race for me, not the regular stans which i don't think handles 90psi small cuts so well).
So despite the cuts, and a bit of nervousness, they get a thumbs up from this heavier rider.
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32mm fitted onto Aeolus Pro 3. My mate said it was the hardest tyre ever to fit. Two of us and plenty of shouting. The 28mm is meant to go on much easier. Perhaps this rim at 19.5mm is too narrow? Didn't hold air for more than 20 minutes but with sealant in is fine.
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its the rim. the 32s on both reynolds and easton rims was super easy. both are 19c.
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So it looks like they've released the tan wall GP5000, but not tubeless. Unless I'm missing something.SamD wrote: ↑Tue Jun 16, 2020 8:28 amThanks!
So let's say Warren Barguil is testing these, and these seem to be pretty much production-ready from what I can see in the photo (logos etc)... What would be a realistic timeframe to expect these to be launched? I'm in for new tires in a few months and want tan walls. I've got GP5000 TL atm, contemplating these or butyl or latex tubed Turbo Cottons...
Specialized Tarmac SL7
Specialized Crux
Velobuild 168
Trek Checkpoint ALR
Specialized Crux
Velobuild 168
Trek Checkpoint ALR
What do you guys think is the optimal inner rim width for a GP5000TL 28mm and 32mm.
I'm going to convert my Crux to road duty and I'm looking at some Light Bicycle wheels. I could get a 32mm wide rim (25mm inner diameter) or a 30mm wide rim with a 23mm inner diameter.
I'm going to convert my Crux to road duty and I'm looking at some Light Bicycle wheels. I could get a 32mm wide rim (25mm inner diameter) or a 30mm wide rim with a 23mm inner diameter.
I'd agree with 23mm. This will give you the ability to run 28s if you choose to. The LB 25C would be too wide for a 28.
I'm getting a new LB wheelset as well. I'm thinking about AR46 front and AR56 rear. I plan to run GP5K 28 front and 32 rear.
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I'm getting a new LB wheelset as well. I'm thinking about AR46 front and AR56 rear. I plan to run GP5K 28 front and 32 rear.
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My LB AR56 with 23mm internal width takes 25c GP5000 non tubeless and Schwalbe Pro One Addix 25c very well.
I have no experience for GP5000 TL so I can't say for sure how it works.
Anyway, just saying that 23mm internal width match fine with at least a few 25c tires in my experience.
I have no experience for GP5000 TL so I can't say for sure how it works.
Anyway, just saying that 23mm internal width match fine with at least a few 25c tires in my experience.
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