New Continental 5000S Tires - Tubeless Compatible

[Calnago]

Two quick questions:

1) I need to top up the Orange sealant in my 5000TL 25mm on my CLX50s. Are there any videos online to explain what I need to do?

2) The valves seems a bit off. The little pin is not as snappy as before. I guess they have slight clogged as I have been using them for 10 months. They still work though, I can still inflate the tyres but it takes a bit more effort. What should I do?

I've posted this a couple places relating to tubulars before but it's still relevant to your question, particularly about clogged valve cores, etc...
I never use sealant as a "preventative" measure in my tubulars, as it can potentially stick your latex tubes together if they are allowed to go flat, but more than that it also means you would never be able to use that tire as a spare once changed out for a newer tire. But I do use sealant to fix punctures, rare as they seem these days, while on the road. And occasionally, the sealant may ultimately clog a presta valve in a way that prevents you from pumping up your tire. Even though you unscrew the top of the presta valve, it is impossible to pump air into the tire. So, out of curiosity what it was that was actually clogging, I did an autopsy on a presta valve that would not allow any air into the tire.

What happens is the sealant gets in the valve, and for whatever reason, perhaps you didn't quite screw the top back down all the way for example, as I think happened here, the sealant pools and forms a nice little o-ring so perfect that you might think it actually is an o-ring intended to be there....

As it is above, that "o-ring" on top will quickly act just as the valve on the inside of the presta valve acts to prevent air escaping... it immediately blocks the passage of air throught the valve into the tube.

Simple solution... dig that sealant based latex o-ring out of the valve and prest-o... your valve core is free again...

[3phase]

So I finally mounted the tires on the rear wheel, needs a little more nudging compared to the front wheels yesterday but managed to mount it. Pumped it to max pressure with normal track pumps and popped the beads right in.

I noticed that when I ran soapy water on the sidewalls, i can see the air permeating as it creates small bubbles, same with the fronts the other night. Deflated it and put in some sealant. After spinning the wheels, checked with soapy water and no bubbles.

But my front tyres lost some air pressure by midday today, Seems the valve core nut is not tightened properly , so I tightened it by hand to let it sit better. Hopefully that fixes it.

One thing I did differently today is I didn’t remove the factory installed rim tape and just plugged my tubeless valve . The rim tape job I did on the front was fairly ok I think, 2-4 air bubbles which I can’t remove no matter what.

Is it normal to loose air overnight by around 30-40 psi? Or should I ride the bike immediately to coat the internals woth sealant?

Hopefully when I wake up the next day, there is minimal pressure loss.

[mikemelbrooks]

Is it normal to loose air overnight by around 30-40 psi? Or should I ride the bike immediately to coat the internals woth sealant?

My road tubeless setups lose about 5-10 psi in a week.

[AJS914]

On my gravel bike I was using some budget sealant. It worked ok but not great and I'd lose a lot of pressure over night. I think I was also not using enough sealant. I wonder if with road tubeless, it helps to use extra sealant the first time you fill the tires?

I switched to Stans and now my gravel tires hold pressure much better. I'm going to try Orange Seal on the GP5000TL tires.

[TobinHatesYou]

On my gravel bike I was using some budget sealant. It worked ok but not great and I'd lose a lot of pressure over night. I think I was also not using enough sealant. I wonder if with road tubeless, it helps to use extra sealant the first time you fill the tires?

I switched to Stans and now my gravel tires hold pressure much better. I'm going to try Orange Seal on the GP5000TL tires.

Having more sealant sloshing around helps get the sealant where it needs to go faster.

I mentioned a while back that all of the sealant had dried up in only one of my GP5Ks, but not the other. Someone else mentioned similar. Seems that even within the same model of tire, sometimes the casings are more porous/absorbent and will leech the liquids out of the sealant. Some tires I'd barely consider tubeless ready like the Compass Bon Jon Pass tend to weep sealant.

[parajba]

Thank you! Very kind.

Re 1)
Assuming there is still some sealant in my current tyres, how do I do it? Deflate to zero? Do I need to rotate the wheel to a particular position...? I am worried that the leftover non dried sealant might make a mess. If I need to deflate to zero, will the 5000 unseat then? I don't have a compressor...

Two quick questions:

1) I need to top up the Orange sealant in my 5000TL 25mm on my CLX50s. Are there any videos online to explain what I need to do?

2) The valves seems a bit off. The little pin is not as snappy as before. I guess they have slight clogged as I have been using them for 10 months. They still work though, I can still inflate the tyres but it takes a bit more effort. What should I do?

1) Remove the valve cores and inject some more sealant. You don’t need to clean out the old sealant... If it’s dried up, it weighs almost nothing.

2) Remove and inspect the valve cores. Sometimes you can pull out bits of dried sealant by hand, sometimes using a tiny pick like a sewing needle can help. When you replace your old tires, take the valves out and inspect the valve body for clumps of sealant inside. Again you can probably use a toothpick or sewing needle to help pick out the sealant.

The best practices for avoiding sealant drying up in the valve is to always inflate your tires with the valve stems at 8 o’clock or 4 o’clock.

[parajba]

Very useful, thanks a lot!

Two quick questions:

1) I need to top up the Orange sealant in my 5000TL 25mm on my CLX50s. Are there any videos online to explain what I need to do?

2) The valves seems a bit off. The little pin is not as snappy as before. I guess they have slight clogged as I have been using them for 10 months. They still work though, I can still inflate the tyres but it takes a bit more effort. What should I do?

I've posted this a couple places relating to tubulars before but it's still relevant to your question, particularly about clogged valve cores, etc...
I never use sealant as a "preventative" measure in my tubulars, as it can potentially stick your latex tubes together if they are allowed to go flat, but more than that it also means you would never be able to use that tire as a spare once changed out for a newer tire. But I do use sealant to fix punctures, rare as they seem these days, while on the road. And occasionally, the sealant may ultimately clog a presta valve in a way that prevents you from pumping up your tire. Even though you unscrew the top of the presta valve, it is impossible to pump air into the tire. So, out of curiosity what it was that was actually clogging, I did an autopsy on a presta valve that would not allow any air into the tire.

What happens is the sealant gets in the valve, and for whatever reason, perhaps you didn't quite screw the top back down all the way for example, as I think happened here, the sealant pools and forms a nice little o-ring so perfect that you might think it actually is an o-ring intended to be there....

As it is above, that "o-ring" on top will quickly act just as the valve on the inside of the presta valve acts to prevent air escaping... it immediately blocks the passage of air throught the valve into the tube.

Simple solution... dig that sealant based latex o-ring out of the valve and prest-o... your valve core is free again...

[AJS914]

Thank you! Very kind.

Re 1)
Assuming there is still some sealant in my current tyres, how do I do it? Deflate to zero? Do I need to rotate the wheel to a particular position...? I am worried that the leftover non dried sealant might make a mess. If I need to deflate to zero, will the 5000 unseat then? I don't have a compressor...

rotate wheel to 7 or 8 o'clock
let the air out
unscrew and remove the the valve
add sealant
reinstall the valve
pump up
done

The tire should not come off the bead lock. There should be no mess. You won't need a compressor.

[parajba]

Thank you! Very kind.

Re 1)
Assuming there is still some sealant in my current tyres, how do I do it? Deflate to zero? Do I need to rotate the wheel to a particular position...? I am worried that the leftover non dried sealant might make a mess. If I need to deflate to zero, will the 5000 unseat then? I don't have a compressor...

rotate wheel to 7 or 8 o'clock
let the air out
unscrew and remove the the valve
add sealant
reinstall the valve
pump up
done

The tire should not come off the bead lock. There should be no mess. You won't need a compressor.

Thanks! Do you mean the valve core or the actual valve? I think you meant the valve core.

[AJS914]

Yes, the core.

[parajba]

Yes, the core.

Thanks a lot!

Here's my experience with a normal track pump (Joe Blow), CLX50 rims, and 5000TL 25mm.

(I didn't install them from scratch, I just topped them up).

When I let the air out some orange sealant started leaking from the rim in a few points. Not a lot, but enough to require me to clean up with a cloth. It popped loudly, a sign that it had unseated (and I could see the rim quite visibly). I followed the instructions and injected around 20-30 ml of Orange in each tyres (the bottle is 237ml).

I then put the core back and pumped the tyre. To my surprise it just worked. Didn't have to do anything magic, it just inflated like a clincher. I was worried that it would not inflate, and that the sealant would leak as it had unseated.

My take is that the old dried sealant created some sort of interface which helped the inflation. I bet it would be a completely different story to mount the 5000TL on the CLX50 from new with clean rims. In that case I am sure a CO2 cartridge should seat it?

[ryanw]

I've installed 3 sets (25 and 28c) on 3 pairs of CLX 50s from scratch using just a track pump.

[parajba]

I've installed 3 sets (25 and 28c) on 3 pairs of CLX 50s from scratch using just a track pump.

Thanks ryanw. I wonder if it's the rims, the tyres or the combination of rim + tyre but am happy to read about your experience as I have a pair of CLX50 and planning to use only the 5000TL 25 and 28.

I mean, I did notice a few drops of Orange sealant appearing in between the rim and tyre here and there but that was possibly caused by my crap pump. I need to replace the head of the pump as it does not stay in place anymore and it literally jumps off. I had to stop a few times while inflating and reposition the head (with the sealant inside), I bet with a normal functioning track pump this will probably not happen as I can reach 40-50PSI in a matter of a few seconds.

[spdntrxi]

I have 28s on my CLX50 now... super easy to mount. Eventually I'll go 25 on the front and keep 28 on the rear.

[parajba]

I have 28s on my CLX50 now... super easy to mount. Eventually I'll go 25 on the front and keep 28 on the rear.

Am thinking of going 28 at the back too. Do they fit the CLX50 nicely or do they ballon?