New Continental 5000S Tires - Tubeless Compatible

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robeambro
Posts: 1841
Joined: Sat Jul 07, 2018 6:21 pm

by robeambro

zefs wrote:
Mon Jul 08, 2019 8:27 am
robeambro wrote:
Sun Jul 07, 2019 2:45 pm
Another victim of sidewall cut here, only 1000km's in.
Might be random, although in my previous two years of cycling on pretty basic and ultra cheap Vittoria tyres this had never happened to me.

Sealant (Orange) seems not up for the task, but before giving up on these Conti's, I want to try and repair them. Truth is, I've never had to repair a tyre as I've only suffered pinch flats (roads in the Netherlands are pretty ok). Any suggestions on what to use (possibly, links to products) and how?
Depends on how big the cut is, it can probably be patched if it's not big. In that case you use tubeless repair patches with the glue by following the instructions and leaving it overnight. If the cut is big the patch can be blown away when inflated/during the ride, so might be best to run it with a tube and tire boot instead until it wears out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=su-XPVnhJuc
Thanks! I thought that patches and tire boots were the same thing?

But yeah I'm going to try patching it and I've also ordered Dynaplugs, so if the patch fails I will resort to that. Running it with a tube will be my very last resort, these damn things have only 1k km on them!

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zefs
Posts: 436
Joined: Sat Aug 05, 2017 8:40 pm

by zefs

Patches need to be glued, tire boot is what you make from an old tire (you cut a piece) in case you want to use a tube and fill the gap of the cut so that the tube doesn't explode. If it's a small cut you don't need a tire boot though but it's good to have in your saddle bag.

robeambro
Posts: 1841
Joined: Sat Jul 07, 2018 6:21 pm

by robeambro

zefs wrote:
Mon Jul 08, 2019 9:46 am
Patches need to be glued, tire boot is what you make from an old tire (you cut a piece) in case you want to use a tube and fill the gap of the cut so that the tube doesn't explode. If it's a small cut you don't need a tire boot though but it's good to have in your saddle bag.
Ah, thanks!

I'm attaching a pic of the cut. Would you say this is a big one? I guess it's some 4-5mm, but I still can't explain why it blew up so dramatically (I was even cornering, had I been on a descent it could have been dangerous) :roll: . Is it just what happens with sidewalls, is it the GP5k, or?
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Capture.PNG

zefs
Posts: 436
Joined: Sat Aug 05, 2017 8:40 pm

by zefs

Can't say from the pic really, but if you want to try get some of tubeless repair kit (I've used Weldtide) with patches and follow the instructions on the video I linked. I would put the tire on the back wheel and do a few km's not far from home after 24hr to test the patch, with fresh sealant too.

It can happen to any tire so probably bad luck.

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Alexbn921
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Joined: Wed Apr 10, 2019 6:39 pm

by Alexbn921

Running a compromised tires is never a good idea and you are asking for a road side breakdown. The cost is almost never worth the risk for me. With that said, a small hole can be fixed with a patch but I would never race on it.
Ride fast Take chances

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pdlpsher1
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Location: CO

by pdlpsher1

TobinHatesYou wrote:
Mon Jul 08, 2019 3:44 am
The GP5K TL 25mm runs 27mm wide on 19mm rims and I run them between 75-80psi.
I forgot to mention that I run 75psi front and 80psi rear on my GP5K 28s. And I weigh a couple pounds less than you (61.2kg, 135lbs). I just took a tire height measurement with a digital caliper and it measures exactly 25mm on my 17C rim. The 28s are a much better fit for your 19C rims and at the same pressure (75/80psi) you won't get pinch flats.

AJS914
Posts: 5420
Joined: Tue Jan 28, 2014 6:52 pm

by AJS914

I have repaired many a tire cut by simply super gluing a small piece of old tire casing to the inside of the tire under the cut. I'd also put a couple of drops of super glue on the outside just the way they may glue a wound shut in the ER. I've never had a repair fail and would ride it confidently. That said, I'm not sure how that would react with sealant.

You can also seal the cut with super glue and glue a vulcanized patch underneath.
As for the loose threads I used to get many on the GP4K. But on the GP5K I've not seen a single loose thread after many miles.
I have had any lose threads on GP4K tires but I use to get them all the time on the original Grand Prix.

kevinw
Posts: 250
Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2019 3:49 pm

by kevinw

I'm going to give the GP5k one more chance I think and i've they let me down again move on to something else.

They do have their benefits. As well as feeling fast that extra liner is usefull for ensuring that you you can inflate with just a pump on most rims. Tread wear seems really good and I've nowhere near the amount of little cuts that I have on mavic USTs - its just the sidewalls and the shedding threads.

devonbiker
Posts: 71
Joined: Wed May 30, 2018 1:26 pm

by devonbiker

I've done about 700 miles on my Continental GP5000 TL. I have string coming off the side wall of my front tyre for no apparent reason. And the other day I had a complete flat at the end of a short ride into town, but no obvious indications of any gash in the tyre or sealant escaping. Then when I went to inflate it at home with my foot pump, I struggled to get it past 70 PSI, then within a few minutes it deflated to about 40 PSI and the Revo sealant started bubbling from the side wall. When I looked closely, it was where the string had peeled off around the entire circumference of the tyre. I put it in a bucket of water and I could see the bubbles coming from this line.

I took it startight to my LBS sold me the tyres and fitted them. They said it was normal and I should just keep inflating it until it seals. I said it wasn't normal that the tyre side wall should start unraveling like that for no reason to the point where it's so thin that sealant is escaping from it. So I asked them to send it back to Continental for them to inspect (although I still have to buy a new tyre in the meantime).

Has anyone else had similar issues? This has happened twice on me, both times on the front wheel.
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kevinw
Posts: 250
Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2019 3:49 pm

by kevinw

I suspect the same happened to mine - now that the tyres are removed I can tell by bending them that the sidewall is noticably weaker along the line where the thread has come away.

Hopefully its a batch issue and my next set will be better. I'm returning mine to the place I bought them from so hopefully I have more luck than you.

Note. I've found the revo sealant to be garbage though. Plenty of views on here about what sealant is "best" but out of the ones I've tried the Revo sealant is the only one I really dont rate. Orange seal endurance pluged my GP5K TL sidewall fine and i've used mavics sealant for 18 months with my mavic ust wheels/tyres and that has never failed me after loads of cuts.

zefs
Posts: 436
Joined: Sat Aug 05, 2017 8:40 pm

by zefs

Had the same on Vittoria Corsa G2 TLR, not sure why Continental and Vittoria went with sewn sidewalls on tubeless tires.
Hutchinson ones are one piece and don't have these issues.

Image
Last edited by zefs on Sat Jul 13, 2019 11:14 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Alexbn921
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by Alexbn921

I was able to air down my gp5000 lt tires last night and test them for burping on DT Swiss ERC 1100 wheels.

At 10psi the bead stayed in place and resisted moving into the center channel. I was able to push the tire into the center be hand with zero air loose. The bead did not recover. Pushing it into the ground also unseated the bead with full collapse of tire with zero air loose. Even aggressive pealing of the tire all the way over resulted in zero air loose.

At 20psi I was unable to push the bead fully off and it would recover with zero air loose. I was still able to collapse the tire completely off the bead pushing it into the ground sideways with zero air loose. Each time the bead would fully recover.

At 30psi the tire would only semi fold over and would not full collapse, no matter how hard I tried.

Overall, I feel much better about running this combo as burping is extremely unlikely. In the case that you are running severely under inflated (sub 40psi), then a complete collapse of the tire in a big G out is possible but would most likely affect a tubed tire in a negative way as well.

Mountain bike rims have a much larger shoulder that supports the tire and the bead is not nearly as strong. Even if the DT rims had a retention ridge it would not be able to keep the tire on the small shoulder area with a full sideways tire collapse. Most mountain rims burp once the tire is moved into the center channel. The extra rubber on the bead of the GP5000 seems to prevent this.
Ride fast Take chances

TobinHatesYou
Posts: 12549
Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm

by TobinHatesYou

How true are everyone’s tires?

I can’t say for sure, but I think my sole remaining GP5K is becoming less true due to the various sidewall issues (fraying in patches, threads ripping out along the circumference.) Could just be that I never noticed it before.

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

Mine ran true for the life of the tyre.

10 psi should be enough to keep the bead hooked. You should bot be able to push the bead from the rim with air in it. If you can it should be very difficult.

Robeambro you have a dead tyre. Bin it. Sidewall damage if repaired is temporary at best. The tyre will likely bulge when inflated to a reasonable pressure.

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Noctiluxx
Posts: 1349
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Location: Southern California

by Noctiluxx

What psi do you guys recommend for 32mm Conti 5000 TL? I have a gravel bike with two sets of wheels and plan on using the 32mm Conti's for occasional road rides. BTW I'm 150-lbs.
Bianchi Oltre XR4, De Rosa SK Pininfarina, Trek Madone SLR, Giant TCR Advanced SL, Cervelo R5 Disk, Giant Revolt

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