New Continental 5000S Tires - Tubeless Compatible
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The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
Since when did the "misconception" start that soapy water is used to trap air and create a seal. That's a new one I've never heard anyone say before now. As far as I know, anyone using soapy water, including the guys mounting car tires at the garage, use it simply to make it easier to slip the tire on the rim, or to locate the source of a puncture. I remember watching some guy as a kid when my dad's car tire flatted and needed fixing. Curious kid that I was I asked "Why the soapy water mister?" as he brushed it on the rim and tire then mounted in on the rim with that big special purpose device (a smaller bicycle version seems like a sure seller from reading this thread). "So it slides on easier, kid". That was the reason then, and it's still the same reason today. Don't know how these misconceptions get started in the first place.
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my method has always worked:
mount the tyres .... add the sealant, and only then pump with a track pump till the tyre seats ... (some sealant may leak out from the sidewalls) .... if so, leave the tyres for a few hrs, (spinning them from time to time, then let the air out and topup again with some sealant ... job done and works every time
mount the tyres .... add the sealant, and only then pump with a track pump till the tyre seats ... (some sealant may leak out from the sidewalls) .... if so, leave the tyres for a few hrs, (spinning them from time to time, then let the air out and topup again with some sealant ... job done and works every time
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I think you've been lucky Dim. If you have a tire/rim combo that won't seal with a track pump you'll end up with a big mess.
Personally, I get the tire to pop into the bead track first, then remove the valve and add the sealant that way.
Personally, I get the tire to pop into the bead track first, then remove the valve and add the sealant that way.
In all likelihood, the only extra kit you will need is sealant and CO2. Over 10 odd years I've had to use CO2 most times to mount MTB tyres but it's a lot cheaper and easier at $1 a pop a few times a year.
I've never had to use it on road tubeless, a track pump works fine, but I may have a lucky combo of rims and tyres
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I've never had to use it on road tubeless, a track pump works fine, but I may have a lucky combo of rims and tyres
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You only know that though by not getting a seal. To add tape your way you have clean up the sealant first.
The way car tyres are mounted is the real clue here. Its the same technology.
Back to the conti tyres. My rear picked up a cut today. It seals but at 40psi. Got to plug it now as the tyre has squared off enough now that 40psi does not feel right. Got nearly 2000lm on them now. I'll run them till the end of the month.
The way car tyres are mounted is the real clue here. Its the same technology.
Back to the conti tyres. My rear picked up a cut today. It seals but at 40psi. Got to plug it now as the tyre has squared off enough now that 40psi does not feel right. Got nearly 2000lm on them now. I'll run them till the end of the month.
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Because it’s here: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tubeless.html
And too many people treat the site as gospel.
The rim must be airtight. The tire has a smooth seating surface that is pressed outward against the rim flanges by the air pressure inside. The process of mounting the tire requires soapy water or a special, soapy liquid, both to lubricate the tire to get it on the rim, and then to provide both a semi-sealing effect and a slippery surface for the tire's beads to mount on the steps of the rim.
Just like its easier to get the tire onto the rim using soapy water, the slipperyness will also make it easier to pop into place. I've had sticky rubber 'almost' pop into place...put sealant in and can see where its having issues. At that point at about 38 psi...i use a CO2 cartridge to get the bead into the rim and pop on. which it usually does at that point.
Edit: in my case, I use tire bead wax which is less messy.
Edit: in my case, I use tire bead wax which is less messy.
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Exactly. With additional layers of tape, the inner rim diameter can be adjusted to a "loose" tire.
Edit: Jan Heine recommends it, too
https://janheine.wordpress.com/2019/02/ ... ess-tires/
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New GP5000 lineup comparison from Jarno. Clincher versions.
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.co ... comparison
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.co ... comparison
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Shouldn't that be posted in the other gp5000 thread.
The supply of the to tyres according to continue won't improve for the foreseeable future. They appear to be serious about about maintaining prices.
The supply of the to tyres according to continue won't improve for the foreseeable future. They appear to be serious about about maintaining prices.
I thought this here thread is intended for both versions and we can let the other thread die.
That's ok, plenty of other good tyres to use whilst the initial enthusism is there. Will give these a whirl when the prices are a bit more sensible.
I still have a good supply of GP4IIS in the basement...so by the time I'm ready to resupply them, the GP5K should be going on a few sales.
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So basically a clincher with latex is indistinguishable from tubeless. From prior test, we know that clincher plus light butyl is right in the middle between latex and normal inner - and would be around +0.8w RR for 100psi.TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Tue Feb 19, 2019 10:37 pmNew GP5000 lineup comparison from Jarno. Clincher versions.
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.co ... comparison
There is .... not a lot of performance difference for either choice. Comes down to practicality. Tubeless is heavier and could be hard (and perhaps nearly impossible, depending on your wheel) to mount. It's also a fair bit more expensive. But most punctures will self-seal and you don't need to carry a spare. Pick your poison.