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New Continental 5000S Tires - Tubeless Compatible
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
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buy some Reynolds Aero blk label wheels and your struggles will wash away.alexroseinnes wrote: ↑Mon Feb 17, 2020 3:36 amDirected at all the smug people who mounted these tires easily I'm having an absolute nightmare with my 32mm ones. Done all the tricks and only mounted the front tire so far on my Hollowgram Knot 45s. ONce mounted, they seat and seal really well. Broken multiple levers so far. It really shouldn't be this hard. Had I not spent so much money on the tyres, I'd have given up two days ago. Ordered some of the no pinch levers mentioned in this thread and will see how they go. Clearly any road side punture that won't seal or plug is going to involve a cab ride home. Absolutely no way I can get these back on the rim on the road.
Obviously the rim matters, and I guess I'll be be going for hookless in any future wheelset.
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Except for the fact that they loosen up considerably after the first installation.alexroseinnes wrote: ↑Mon Feb 17, 2020 3:36 amClearly any road side punture that won't seal or plug is going to involve a cab ride home. Absolutely no way I can get these back on the rim on the road.
oh and the tires are not for hookless rims.. btw
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I helped a mate put a set of 32mm GP5000 on his hookless Clement Ushuaia gravel wheels a few weeks ago. Once I had the tyre in the centre channel, I was able to pull them over the bead by hand, wearing gloves, but no levers needed. I dont think the install went easy because they are hookless. Are you sure you have squeezed the tyre into the centre channel of the wheel, opposite where you are trying to get the tyre over the rim?alexroseinnes wrote: ↑Mon Feb 17, 2020 3:36 amDirected at all the smug people who mounted these tires easily I'm having an absolute nightmare with my 32mm ones. Done all the tricks and only mounted the front tire so far on my Hollowgram Knot 45s. ONce mounted, they seat and seal really well. Broken multiple levers so far. It really shouldn't be this hard. Had I not spent so much money on the tyres, I'd have given up two days ago. Ordered some of the no pinch levers mentioned in this thread and will see how they go. Clearly any road side punture that won't seal or plug is going to involve a cab ride home. Absolutely no way I can get these back on the rim on the road.
Obviously the rim matters, and I guess I'll be be going for hookless in any future wheelset.
Still no strings?
I moved away from GP5000TLs after my experiences with an early batch but if they have made improvements I might be tempted back.
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2,000 miles on a set of the 5000TL 25mm tires and zero problems and no flats (that I've noticed).
I used tubolitos for the last 9months or so, liked how light they were, unfortunately they puncture fairly easily. I live in Switzerland, we have excellent roads, I usually have abt 1-2 punctures per year, but since using the tubolito had plenty. In the spur of the moment I decided to try the 5000TL, got them last night. Putting them on 404 NSW required tyre levers, still fairly easy installation. After I heard of a story of tyre popping out with fresh sealant with a royal mess I wanted to see if I can inflate them without sealant with floorpump. All went well, heard the “bedding” sound twice, they seem hooked in.
On tires with tubes I usually check when it has little pressure to grab it and twist it to make sure is hooked in properly, is this step needed on TL? And how do you even do it, once it hooked is pretty much there..
I decided to try the MilkIt sealant, I just have few practical questions:
- when the sealant is replaced after how many times is advised to take out the tyre and clean the dried sealant?
- I’ll get a plug kit, how big are the chances a plug and CO2 cannot fix? I assume that is only in cases of major cuts right? Never had something g like this and wonder if carrying a tube is really needed. I was thinking to have with me the tubolito road (the super thin one) but I imagine if I need to use it it’ll be due a massive cut, it may be rendered useless anyway...
- I imagine tubes are also needed if the sealant dried and the rider wasn’t aware, am I right?
- now that my tyre is hooked in, I can simply deflate, put the sealing via the valve and simply inflate it, or is it best if first hooking is done with sealant in the tyre?
Thanks a mil for the help, I’m pretty sure some of these were answered but is a 68 pages long thread and I wish was a search function only within the thread...
On tires with tubes I usually check when it has little pressure to grab it and twist it to make sure is hooked in properly, is this step needed on TL? And how do you even do it, once it hooked is pretty much there..
I decided to try the MilkIt sealant, I just have few practical questions:
- when the sealant is replaced after how many times is advised to take out the tyre and clean the dried sealant?
- I’ll get a plug kit, how big are the chances a plug and CO2 cannot fix? I assume that is only in cases of major cuts right? Never had something g like this and wonder if carrying a tube is really needed. I was thinking to have with me the tubolito road (the super thin one) but I imagine if I need to use it it’ll be due a massive cut, it may be rendered useless anyway...
- I imagine tubes are also needed if the sealant dried and the rider wasn’t aware, am I right?
- now that my tyre is hooked in, I can simply deflate, put the sealing via the valve and simply inflate it, or is it best if first hooking is done with sealant in the tyre?
Thanks a mil for the help, I’m pretty sure some of these were answered but is a 68 pages long thread and I wish was a search function only within the thread...
1, I'm too lazy so I clean the tubeless when I feel my wheel is too heavy or unbalanced.dorin wrote: ↑Fri Mar 06, 2020 8:46 amI used tubolitos for the last 9months or so, liked how light they were, unfortunately they puncture fairly easily. I live in Switzerland, we have excellent roads, I usually have abt 1-2 punctures per year, but since using the tubolito had plenty. In the spur of the moment I decided to try the 5000TL, got them last night. Putting them on 404 NSW required tyre levers, still fairly easy installation. After I heard of a story of tyre popping out with fresh sealant with a royal mess I wanted to see if I can inflate them without sealant with floorpump. All went well, heard the “bedding” sound twice, they seem hooked in.
On tires with tubes I usually check when it has little pressure to grab it and twist it to make sure is hooked in properly, is this step needed on TL? And how do you even do it, once it hooked is pretty much there..
I decided to try the MilkIt sealant, I just have few practical questions:
- when the sealant is replaced after how many times is advised to take out the tyre and clean the dried sealant?
- I’ll get a plug kit, how big are the chances a plug and CO2 cannot fix? I assume that is only in cases of major cuts right? Never had something g like this and wonder if carrying a tube is really needed. I was thinking to have with me the tubolito road (the super thin one) but I imagine if I need to use it it’ll be due a massive cut, it may be rendered useless anyway...
- I imagine tubes are also needed if the sealant dried and the rider wasn’t aware, am I right?
- now that my tyre is hooked in, I can simply deflate, put the sealing via the valve and simply inflate it, or is it best if first hooking is done with sealant in the tyre?
Thanks a mil for the help, I’m pretty sure some of these were answered but is a 68 pages long thread and I wish was a search function only within the thread...
2, Massive cut or large hole. I take a tube in the saddle bag.
I've asked which tube is better as a backup here and was suggested take a light butyl.
3, I also take a set of patch. If the cut/hole is too large that can't be fixed by plug, I will first patch it from inside to avoid tube explosion.
4, adding sealent first or second are both OK as long as you can inflate the tyre.
I'd say never unless you have a specific reason. I cleaned out my gravel bike tires last summer only because I wanted to try a new type of sealant. The ball of latex left after two years only weighed around 25 grams. It was nothing.
I just topped up my GP5000TLs (Orange Seal) after four months of usage. I still had 30mls of sealant in them. The GP5000TLs seem so well sealed that sealant doesn't evaporate very quickly at all for me.
Many thanks for the tips. Impressed on the ease of the setup. Although I heard the popping noise at the first install I was surprised to see some sealant between tire and rim, wiped it out, didn’t come again. Shall I be worried and take it off & restart the entire process?
Nope, completely normal. Most likely this individual rim+tire pairing would have had a slow leak at the bead. Sealant solved that. Go ride & be happy.dorin wrote:Shall I be worried and take it off & restart the entire process?
BTW, if you are worried about the tires seating properly, it's simple to check visually either by going around the sidewall and making sure it's symmetrically positioned all the way around and the same on both sides, or by spinning the wheel. When spun, a seated tire can have a very slight wobble from side to side (more common in MTB tires) but it shouldn't have any noticeable vertical hop in relation to the rim's edge.
This is a genuine risk and it has happened to me. There is a clue that your sealant has gone, however, which is if the tyre isn't holding air pressure as well as it used to. That can mean all the sealant is gone.
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