New Continental 5000S Tires - Tubeless Compatible
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Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
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Dan Gerous wrote: ↑Wed Dec 12, 2018 11:28 pm
The only thing more wrong than tire companies' width numbers is their pressure recommendations.
Mavic (and Enve in the rim/wheel side) seem to have pretty decent recommendations. The MyMavic app tells me to run 57/59psi with 21mm rims and 28mm tires (versatile/mixed conditions.)
This is helpful, thank you! Would still love to know how the 23mm and 25mm measure up @ around 85PSI on a 17c rim (Campy Bora)jcnz wrote: ↑Wed Dec 12, 2018 7:18 pmOK remeasured with manual calipers....jcnz wrote:25mm and 28mm tires.... Think the rims are 19mm internal... I'll get some calipers and measure properly in the next day or two..
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26.5mm for 25c on 19mm @ 90psi
28.3mm for 28c on 19mm @80 psi
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- Dan Gerous
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I had the opposite experience with the Mavic app, it was always recommending I run pretty much the max pressure with their 700x25 UST tires on 19mm wide rims, the Yksion UST feel like frozen crap at 85-87psi!TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Thu Dec 13, 2018 12:08 amDan Gerous wrote: ↑Wed Dec 12, 2018 11:28 pm
The only thing more wrong than tire companies' width numbers is their pressure recommendations.
Mavic (and Enve in the rim/wheel side) seem to have pretty decent recommendations. The MyMavic app tells me to run 57/59psi with 21mm rims and 28mm tires (versatile/mixed conditions.)
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Looking at a plot of current road bike tire width trends... i think we will be at a 4inch + width, with marketing koolaid on tap (oh the rolling resistance and impedance!!!), in about 11.3 years.
Or, we can just look at what Surly is doing now... and it will be on-trend in about 3-5 years
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So lets complicate the picture further: how much of silica’s data is not due to pressures increasing impedance... but rather due to the high tire pressures making effective tire width greater... thus hurting aero gains?
Either way, it supports the “baby bear” theory for the “ideal” tire pressures... at least when operating close to the 105% rule.
Either way, it supports the “baby bear” theory for the “ideal” tire pressures... at least when operating close to the 105% rule.
RocketRacing wrote: ↑Wed Dec 12, 2018 11:03 pmthank you for this link!!! Classic internet: most of it is crap, but there is a handfull of usefull stuff out there if you know where to look.
My only opinion there is that looking at his data, you need to get into pretty obscene pressures before too high of a pressure starts to hurt. If the roads are often crap, i am taking my low pressure, wide tired, tubless cx bike... or my xc bike... or my fat bike. It all depends on the route. Each has it’s “sweet spot. “
And it is kind of like an aero/narrow vs low rr/wide/poor aero choice... the right answer kind of depends on your speed.
The impedance issue complicates it all further. You need to balance aero, rr, and impedance... and based on your speed/terrain, there is no one correct answer... except that maybe very wide tires, with aero wheels sized appropriate (disc brakes!!!) is the all round “closest” answer (i did not say “best”) for most situations. But a narrow 23cc tire may still be the fastest option on a smooth road, or a fat bike tire under 5psi may still be best for a very rooty path.
It is all a reminder that it is less about “more being better” and more about “the best tool for the job.”
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Just adding to the anecdote here; my colleague had gp5000 clinchers mounted for maybe 3 rides (less than 250km) before a huge sidewall slash on the front rim. Bad enough to write the tyre off. Sidewalls are definitely no better than before.
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What kinds of surfaces are people here riding their road bikes on such that sidewall slashes are seemingly a common occurrence. 100% of my punctures have been in the tread, and of those, most were slow leaks due to embedded glass.
Time VXRS Ulteam (7.16 kg)
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=120268
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=120268
I have 9,000 miles on GP4000s without a single sidewall cut. The total number of flats I've had can be counted on one hand. One of those flats was recent and was a pinch flat from hitting a giant pothole while in a group ride.
Back in the days of the GP3000, I used to get frequent sidewall cuts. They were always small though and I could boot them with an old piece of tire casing and krazy glue.
It's weird that people on the forums seem to either fall in the 'no sidewall cut camp' or the 'these are the worst tires in the world camp'. I've been formulating a theory that maybe some people are just more careful, that they avoid rocks, gravel, road imperfections naturally without making a special effort and don't have these problems.
Back in the days of the GP3000, I used to get frequent sidewall cuts. They were always small though and I could boot them with an old piece of tire casing and krazy glue.
It's weird that people on the forums seem to either fall in the 'no sidewall cut camp' or the 'these are the worst tires in the world camp'. I've been formulating a theory that maybe some people are just more careful, that they avoid rocks, gravel, road imperfections naturally without making a special effort and don't have these problems.
Danish roads has a lot of flint stone, and that can be really sharp, a buddy of mine even had one pierce his car tyre.
Then people should have trouble with every brand of tire other than a steel belted radial, right? It just seems that we have a vocal minority that occasionally pipes up saying the GP4000 is a horrible tire and they get sidewall cuts all the time and then we get the other side that things they are the greatest tire ever. We don't seem to get many inbetweeners.
I think people are overthinking this. It's a matter of being the most sold tire (so a lot of users) and riding conditions. A lot of people use them as winter tires and ride them on the worst conditions and others get the occasional puncture with them while riding mostly on dry roads.AJS914 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 14, 2018 8:21 amThen people should have trouble with every brand of tire other than a steel belted radial, right? It just seems that we have a vocal minority that occasionally pipes up saying the GP4000 is a horrible tire and they get sidewall cuts all the time and then we get the other side that things they are the greatest tire ever. We don't seem to get many inbetweeners.
It's not like every other tire manufacturer use a magic material and you hear no reports about sidewall cuts, I think if we could see the tire sale numbers from bike stores it would make more sense.
Pretty sure the same reports will exist about 5000 (or any other tire), if it becomes as popular.
Current wider rims expose the sidewalls much more.
In MTB Enduro, the recommendation is often to run narrower rims at the back to hide the sidewalls under the tread...
In MTB Enduro, the recommendation is often to run narrower rims at the back to hide the sidewalls under the tread...
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I’d be willing to bet the guys getting a lot of sidewall cuts are running their tyres fashionably soft and maybe also not quite being honest with themselves about their weight it’s getting to be the same in MTB, dudes running ridiculously soft tyres for the gripzzz but pinch flatting *f##k* out of tubeless so we’re now seeing foam inserts :eyeroll:
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