30mm bearings in bb86 frame
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I realize that there are lots of threads on this topic, but is there a general consensus of the best pf4130 bearing set? Trying to put a quarq 30mm spindle into a bb86 frame. Options I’ve seen that aren’t crazy expensive are the Rotor 4130 and FSA bb386 in bb86 bottom brackets. Am I missing the one to get?
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Do some research on the Rotor 4130 first before you go with it. I've recently put one in my BB86 bike (going from DA9000 crank to Rotor 3D+) and had creak problems (yes the cups were interfaced with the frame with loctite) at certain power outputs (especially on the trainer). I think the lack of sleeve between the two cups is a big problem when there isn't much margin for error in this setup. The BB Infinite one looks like the best solution (it's a one-piece design) but it looks like a pain in the ass if you have to take it out which is a concern for Di2 users. I went with C-Bear which is a decent chunk of change (~$170) but not an absurd amount like some of these other ones like Kogel. For this specific spindle+BB shell setup, you shouldn't cheap out on the BB..
What frame is this going on? I find usually the frame has more to do with how well things feel than the bearings themselves. Wheels manufacturing has a good steel alternative, Kogel and Ceramicspeed for Ceramic though I've had a ceramicspeed on a Scott Plasma that felt like garbage, mostly due to the BB shell being undersized (out of round) - I've also had steel bearings on a BMC that felt very smooth.
I'm using CyrclingCeramic 41/30. My frame is Canyon Ultimate CF SLX and the crank is Rotor 2Inpower.
I've been using the first generation of Ceramic bearings from CylingCeramic for 3 years. I have replaced the BB this summer by the new on range of balls 41/30. The BB is very thin (there is not much room for bearings). However, I've got the best smootness ever seen on a BB86 BB. Without a chain in place, my crank is making 20-25 laps after launch.
I need to have a long terme review on this, but it looks still new after many rainy rides. Smoothness remains perfect and there is no noise.
I think that BB86 can be now used with 30mm cranks, but you must spend $200 for quality. It makes sense when you have a dual powermeter and if you expect to using this quality product for 3 years. Limited budgets should stay on Shimano cranks and steel BB86 24mm bearings.
I've been using the first generation of Ceramic bearings from CylingCeramic for 3 years. I have replaced the BB this summer by the new on range of balls 41/30. The BB is very thin (there is not much room for bearings). However, I've got the best smootness ever seen on a BB86 BB. Without a chain in place, my crank is making 20-25 laps after launch.
I need to have a long terme review on this, but it looks still new after many rainy rides. Smoothness remains perfect and there is no noise.
I think that BB86 can be now used with 30mm cranks, but you must spend $200 for quality. It makes sense when you have a dual powermeter and if you expect to using this quality product for 3 years. Limited budgets should stay on Shimano cranks and steel BB86 24mm bearings.
The one I've got, yes... doesn't look like they've changed it from the picture. I was wrong in my other post, the Enduro is the steel version I would recommend because they have the additional bearings you're asking about (not Wheels Mfg.)
Even if your bottom bracket doesn't creak. You will get significantly reduced bearing life and stiffness. The load rating for a 4130 bottom bracket is ~25% of that of a bottom bracket that uses 6806 bearings (BB30/PF30/BB386)
If you have the option, I would consider a different crankset. Shimano deliberately designed BB86 to stop people using 30mm cranksets
Hambini
If you have the option, I would consider a different crankset. Shimano deliberately designed BB86 to stop people using 30mm cranksets
Hambini
Hambini Aeronautical Engineer, Polluting YouTube since 2016 - views expressed are my own...
Hi Hambini, I'm in a similar situation as the OP, I got a power meter in a 30mm simple crank and a bb86. Do you have any advice for the "less worst" solution?hambini wrote: ↑Fri Nov 09, 2018 10:22 pmEven if your bottom bracket doesn't creak. You will get significantly reduced bearing life and stiffness. The load rating for a 4130 bottom bracket is ~25% of that of a bottom bracket that uses 6806 bearings (BB30/PF30/BB386)
If you have the option, I would consider a different crankset. Shimano deliberately designed BB86 to stop people using 30mm cranksets
Hambini
Thx
- wheelsONfire
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The whole thing with framesets BB standard designed around anything than 30mm bearings is so stupid.
I can't understand this! Even so, it's so usual today that it makes me wonder how this could be?
I dismiss all and every frameset built like this.
I can't understand this! Even so, it's so usual today that it makes me wonder how this could be?
I dismiss all and every frameset built like this.
Bikes:
Ax Lightness Vial EVO Race (2019.01.03)
Open *UP* (2016.04.14)
Paduano Racing Fidia (kind of shelved)
Ex bike; Vial EVO D, Vial EVO Ultra, Scott Foil, Paduano ti bike.
Ax Lightness Vial EVO Race (2019.01.03)
Open *UP* (2016.04.14)
Paduano Racing Fidia (kind of shelved)
Ex bike; Vial EVO D, Vial EVO Ultra, Scott Foil, Paduano ti bike.
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Best advice would be to go to a smaller diameter crankset.TiCass wrote: ↑Fri Nov 09, 2018 11:42 pmHi Hambini, I'm in a similar situation as the OP, I got a power meter in a 30mm simple crank and a bb86. Do you have any advice for the "less worst" solution?hambini wrote: ↑Fri Nov 09, 2018 10:22 pmEven if your bottom bracket doesn't creak. You will get significantly reduced bearing life and stiffness. The load rating for a 4130 bottom bracket is ~25% of that of a bottom bracket that uses 6806 bearings (BB30/PF30/BB386)
If you have the option, I would consider a different crankset. Shimano deliberately designed BB86 to stop people using 30mm cranksets
Hambini
Thx
If you can't do that, the other options on the table are a ground down 6806 or a 6706. Both have problems, the grinding down causes the sidewalls to be very thin so the bearing flexes under load. A 6706 is very thin to start off with - only 4mm.
I've made a couple of bottom brackets for people in the past where I doubled up a 6706, so you end up with 4x6706 bearings in the bottom bracket. It is technically a PITA but they didn't creak. I got SKF to make the bearings to a higher specification than the "off the shelf" ones, so the reduction in life and power ended up at around 15%.
The above solution was okay as the two bikes were that of a world tour rider and he had the budget and spares but it is not feasible for a club rider because it causes a spare parts problem when the bearings inevitably wear out.
Hope that Helps
Hambini
Hambini Aeronautical Engineer, Polluting YouTube since 2016 - views expressed are my own...