School me on headsets

[RocketRacing]

Hi folks

Tonights reading is on lightweight headset options. Early on my reading list is eebrakes aer headsets (plastic bushings... ummm...) and extralite.

Any thoughts on good weight/reliability/cost options? I am not afraid of high end as prices do not seem that expensive in the relm of weigh weenism (i.e cheap/light/durable, pick any two... i will sacrafice cheap).

Thanks for any experience/input.

[RocketRacing]

Cane creek aer series ii seems to be on point.

[alcatraz]

What about those fsa headset bearings with alloy outer rings. I saw somewhere they were around 25usd a piece. Replace both and you can save around 18gr in those two bearings alone.

[morganb]

Hi folks

Tonights reading is on lightweight headset options. Early on my reading list is eebrakes aer headsets (plastic bushings... ummm...) and extralite.

Any thoughts on good weight/reliability/cost options? I am not afraid of high end as prices do not seem that expensive in the relm of weigh weenism (i.e cheap/light/durable, pick any two... i will sacrafice cheap).

Thanks for any experience/input.

The new AER got rid of the plastic bushings.

[kode54]

bottom bearings in headsets get beat if riding in wet weather and such. Chris King is starting to make bearings for inset headsets now. not nearly as comprehensive as Cane Creek's offerings. That said, I have mostly Cane Creek headsets in most of my bikes...with one Chris King headset. Both have been reliable but again, I repack grease at the end of the season.

not sure how much weight you can save with headsets. i pick reliable over weight.

[asiantrick]

Don't bother with light weight headset. They will crack on you. I choose reliability over weight any day.

[Hexsense]

What about those fsa headset bearings with alloy outer rings. I saw somewhere they were around 25usd a piece. Replace both and you can save around 18gr in those two bearings alone.

I had that FSA bearings for a while. It literally disintegrated itself in my riding condition in 3 months. Like it felt weird then i remove fork to inspect and noticed that the bearing coming out in pieces, like top and inner part, then ball and retainer, and bottom part of the bearing.
For bottom bearing, i'd go all in for Canecreek's Hellbender bearings or Enduro stainless steel bearings (they make multiple versions, get the stainless steel one), whichever is cheaper. I'd guess Enduro Stainless steel would be cheaper for bottom bearing, as Canecreek literally price bottom Hellbender bearing twice as expensive as the top bearing.

Then you can save weight on top bearing, if you want to.

[RocketRacing]

Great replies.

Durable for the bottom, light for the top is the smart way to go i am sure. My logical brain said so.

Sadly, the logical brain kinda got beat down by rhe weight weenie brain a while back. Hahaha

I think i will be evaluating cane creek options. Series ii seems like the winning top choice. I will eval the needs for the bottom (60kg/130lbs rider, dry riding, some choppy pavement, and low miles as i divide time between mountain/gravel/road bikes) and make a cost/durability/weight analysis.

But lets be honest here, i think i can get away with a bit more reliability for the weight, even for the bottom... so i can see me chosing something that pushes the limit a bit.

[tabl10s]

Deleted.

[wheelbuilder]

I've been using the FSA Superlights mentioned above for a couple of years. I like them and they are very light. They are not durable however, as I have gone through three in 2 years. Keep buying them though.

[beanbiken]

I also recently replaced my Izalco Max's headset with the FSA alloy bearings, so far so good but it is still only early days and of course time will tell. Think it saved about 20 grams on the pair.

BB

[bm0p700f]

Stainless steel is about the worst material for ball bearings there is. It pits more easily unlike harderened chrome steel. The longevity of a stainless bearing is more to do with the grade of the balls and the smoothness of the races. If the stainless balls were replaced by grade 10 chrome balls it would last even longer. Sadly stainless sells with bearings so bearing manufacturer end up reinforcing the myth.

It not the brand name that makes the bearing good it's the materials used and specification which is not shared. Hence myths like stainless is better perpetuate.

[Hexsense]

I kinda know they aren't as strong as normal steel just didn't know it's that far behind. I though it's still way stronger than aluminum bearing and still great for the task, right?

In my salty area near the sea in addition to hefty amount of my sweat and salty energy drink, any bit of rust resistance (in addition to packed grease) is apreciated.
I had some bearing that leak out rusty color stain. I don't want that again anywhere on my bike.