I am getting a ticking sound coming from the bottom bracket (told by two different shops) so I am looking to replace the bottom bracket on my 2014 super six hi-mod. I would like to go with one that is recommended or better than a stock one. I run Dura ace 9000 mechanical and the bottom bracket on the bike says race face. I bought the bike like this about a year ago.
It seems like for every good review there is a bad review. I looked up
cermaic speed (Everyone says its not worth the money but I never said I cared about price)
bbinfinite
hawk
I am new so go easy on me please haha
Which bottom bracket?
Moderator: robbosmans
How about a picture or two around the bottom bracket?
I don't replace bottom brackets myself. I replace the bearings in them.
You can put whatever bearing you like in them. You would however need to study and devise a way to pull/press the bearings. I do it with a small threaded rod and different diameter washers. It can be tricky until you get the hang of it.
A good quality bearing is like 1-2usd here in China. Don't know about your location however. I'm talking about skf/nsk/ntn/nti/fag.
A good quality bearing in my book means good seals and low play between inner/outer race. Unfortunately ceramic bearings often have more play unless they are very expensive. It really comes down to finding your preferred ones. After trying several I've decided to stick with SKF. I like how the play is less than most other brands I've tried and they aren't expensive.
So far the ceramic bearings I've tried so far spin very well but the play that they've developed (or had initially) make them unusable for any longer period of time. Might be ok for a few races if you like to tinker and swap bearings after a few weeks/months. I didn't mind it at first, felt elite for a while, but it got old. Now I just want to focus on training.
I don't replace bottom brackets myself. I replace the bearings in them.
You can put whatever bearing you like in them. You would however need to study and devise a way to pull/press the bearings. I do it with a small threaded rod and different diameter washers. It can be tricky until you get the hang of it.
A good quality bearing is like 1-2usd here in China. Don't know about your location however. I'm talking about skf/nsk/ntn/nti/fag.
A good quality bearing in my book means good seals and low play between inner/outer race. Unfortunately ceramic bearings often have more play unless they are very expensive. It really comes down to finding your preferred ones. After trying several I've decided to stick with SKF. I like how the play is less than most other brands I've tried and they aren't expensive.
So far the ceramic bearings I've tried so far spin very well but the play that they've developed (or had initially) make them unusable for any longer period of time. Might be ok for a few races if you like to tinker and swap bearings after a few weeks/months. I didn't mind it at first, felt elite for a while, but it got old. Now I just want to focus on training.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
-
wheelbuilder
- Posts: 1210
- Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2017 2:10 am
CK.........trouble free virtually forever...
Never cheer before you know who is winning
after watching a lot of videos his hubs do not seem to spin as freely as others like swiss 240 or 190.
^I think this thread is about bottom brackets, not hubs. The shells on the PF30 Chris King BB are actually .02mm oversized, making for a very tight fit, and pressing these cups in was a little disconcerting at first with the noise they made. Thought I was cracking the shell. But very well sealed, and have the tool for injecting new grease into the bearings. I suspect they will be very long lasting.
But really, I think the issues with creaky bottom brackets comes 99% down to the install. Whether it’s some $30 Delrin cups, or an expensive two piece threaded affair, if the installation is done properly they work. As much as I still like the good ol’ threaded BB’s for ease of use and durability, I am ok with the multitude of pressfit solutions given that I believe I can get virtually any of them installed, and running creak free till they die of natural causes.
But really, I think the issues with creaky bottom brackets comes 99% down to the install. Whether it’s some $30 Delrin cups, or an expensive two piece threaded affair, if the installation is done properly they work. As much as I still like the good ol’ threaded BB’s for ease of use and durability, I am ok with the multitude of pressfit solutions given that I believe I can get virtually any of them installed, and running creak free till they die of natural causes.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Been using a Hark full stainless BB in my EVO HM for 2 years now. Still spins effortlessly and smooth. https://www.hawk-racing.com/product-cat ... -brackets/
Me too. The Hawk Racing bearings are brilliant. Two years running with NO maintenance and they spin like new. Dead silent as well.nickf wrote: ↑Tue Sep 25, 2018 5:41 pmBeen using a Hark full stainless BB in my EVO HM for 2 years now. Still spins effortlessly and smooth. https://www.hawk-racing.com/product-cat ... -brackets/
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
