After putting up with chain throws for the last couple months (multiple times a ride), this is what finally fixed it for me. I angled my FD a few mm inboard towards the frame. The overshift is now what shifts the chain and voila, no more chain throws.TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Sat Apr 06, 2019 4:48 amWhat works for me is a 6mm gap for cage height, having the yaw of the FD so the tail is .5mm closer to the frame rather than lined up with the chainring, and setting the high limit to the point where there is almost hesitation in the upshift...literally .1mm from rubbing the chain.
SRAM Red eTap FD chain drop
Moderator: robbosmans
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
yup, that's what i did on my T1SL with the etap running QXL. didn't have to use a shim with the parlee FD mount and no drop chains on big or small. the only issue is i have to do a slight pause before upshifting or downshifting on the FD. haven't tried doing that on during load.. but a friend of mine that races in a team dumped the QXL and went rotor noQ with his etap setup.RyanH wrote: ↑Mon Aug 05, 2019 4:41 pmAfter putting up with chain throws for the last couple months (multiple times a ride), this is what finally fixed it for me. I angled my FD a few mm inboard towards the frame. The overshift is now what shifts the chain and voila, no more chain throws.TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Sat Apr 06, 2019 4:48 amWhat works for me is a 6mm gap for cage height, having the yaw of the FD so the tail is .5mm closer to the frame rather than lined up with the chainring, and setting the high limit to the point where there is almost hesitation in the upshift...literally .1mm from rubbing the chain.
-
- Posts: 12550
- Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm
RyanH wrote: ↑Mon Aug 05, 2019 4:41 pmAfter putting up with chain throws for the last couple months (multiple times a ride), this is what finally fixed it for me. I angled my FD a few mm inboard towards the frame. The overshift is now what shifts the chain and voila, no more chain throws.TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Sat Apr 06, 2019 4:48 amWhat works for me is a 6mm gap for cage height, having the yaw of the FD so the tail is .5mm closer to the frame rather than lined up with the chainring, and setting the high limit to the point where there is almost hesitation in the upshift...literally .1mm from rubbing the chain.
And for anyone else messing with this, make sure there's clearance between the back of the crankarm and outer cage-plate or limit screws during the overshift. There is more overshift when in the largest cogs too, so perform the check from cogs 1-4.
I have to do this on my Emonda (and the one that got t-boned,) but on my Madone I have the FD lined up perfectly with the guide lines. Even the slightest difference in braze-on positioning wreaks havoc on SRAM FD set-up.
- wheelbuilder
- Posts: 1212
- Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2017 2:10 am
This is really the bottom line with these. So dependent on front hanger. I have never experienced two front derailleur set-ups that were the same.......even on multiples of same make/model/size. Really frustrating and requires way too much time spent dialing in the front. Test ride..back on the stand. I like AXS so much better in this regard.TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Mon Aug 05, 2019 8:19 pmRyanH wrote: ↑Mon Aug 05, 2019 4:41 pmAfter putting up with chain throws for the last couple months (multiple times a ride), this is what finally fixed it for me. I angled my FD a few mm inboard towards the frame. The overshift is now what shifts the chain and voila, no more chain throws.TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Sat Apr 06, 2019 4:48 amWhat works for me is a 6mm gap for cage height, having the yaw of the FD so the tail is .5mm closer to the frame rather than lined up with the chainring, and setting the high limit to the point where there is almost hesitation in the upshift...literally .1mm from rubbing the chain.
And for anyone else messing with this, make sure there's clearance between the back of the crankarm and outer cage-plate or limit screws during the overshift. There is more overshift when in the largest cogs too, so perform the check from cogs 1-4.
I have to do this on my Emonda (and the one that got t-boned,) but on my Madone I have the FD lined up perfectly with the guide lines. Even the slightest difference in braze-on positioning wreaks havoc on SRAM FD set-up.
Never cheer before you know who is winning
-
- Posts: 12550
- Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm
My bikes have integrated chain catchers to prevent inside drops. These are outside throws and they occur when the chain lifts up and over the front half of the chainring. Wickwerks makes one, but I have doubts that it would actually work. Also in the event that the chain does get thrown, the chain catcher would probably prevent you from getting the chain back on with a simple downshift.
thanks for explaining. seems either it's a hanger thing then or an fd related oneTobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Tue Aug 06, 2019 4:50 am
My bikes have integrated chain catchers to prevent inside drops. These are outside throws and they occur when the chain lifts up and over the front half of the chainring. Wickwerks makes one, but I have doubts that it would actually work. Also in the event that the chain does get thrown, the chain catcher would probably prevent you from getting the chain back on with a simple downshift.
- wheelbuilder
- Posts: 1212
- Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2017 2:10 am
That is the highest set front derailleur I have ever seen...... Except for maybe an old mountain triple on a full suspension bike.
Never cheer before you know who is winning
How does it measure from QXL's highest teeth? I have my FD with normal q-rings set so low, that the FD's cage just clears the highest teeth when moving between outboard and inboard position. When the FD is aligned just right, it gives a very secure shift 99% of time.addictR1 wrote:On my setup I did the total opposite. I went up high for my QXL and no issues with up or downshifts.
Hi, this is my first post ob WeightWeenies and I have recently started following this thread.
I have a Canyon Ultimate with SRAM Force Etap AXS and have been suffering chain drops shifting to the smaller chainring; every time it has happened the chain has been in the middle of the rear cassette (i.e. not in the lowset gear/largest rear cog).
Last time it happened about 20 miles into a ride in the mountains and the chain ended up bending. I straightened it as best as I could but the drivetrain was noisy for the rest of the ride and the rear cassette was ghost shifting in some gears.
I have now replaced the chain and the local bike shop has checked everything over and said that the limit screws are correct (i.e. chain drop should be impossible).
The bent chain after a chain drop is worrying - these chains are not cheap and having to replace the chain after less than 500km on a brand new bike is disappointing. The experience has left me wondering if SRAM AXS chains are fragile (feels like they are made of butter) or if the flat top chain is a bad design.
Any suggestions on how to rectify this issue would be greatly appreciated.
I have a Canyon Ultimate with SRAM Force Etap AXS and have been suffering chain drops shifting to the smaller chainring; every time it has happened the chain has been in the middle of the rear cassette (i.e. not in the lowset gear/largest rear cog).
Last time it happened about 20 miles into a ride in the mountains and the chain ended up bending. I straightened it as best as I could but the drivetrain was noisy for the rest of the ride and the rear cassette was ghost shifting in some gears.
I have now replaced the chain and the local bike shop has checked everything over and said that the limit screws are correct (i.e. chain drop should be impossible).
The bent chain after a chain drop is worrying - these chains are not cheap and having to replace the chain after less than 500km on a brand new bike is disappointing. The experience has left me wondering if SRAM AXS chains are fragile (feels like they are made of butter) or if the flat top chain is a bad design.
Any suggestions on how to rectify this issue would be greatly appreciated.
Yea I know.. seems odd but I noticed in doing so no chain drops with QXL.wheelbuilder wrote:That is the highest set front derailleur I have ever seen...... Except for maybe an old mountain triple on a full suspension bike.
24.3mm... I had to angle the rear part of FD inward a bit.Jugi wrote:How does it measure from QXL's highest teeth? I have my FD with normal q-rings set so low, that the FD's cage just clears the highest teeth when moving between outboard and inboard position. When the FD is aligned just right, it gives a very secure shift 99% of time.addictR1 wrote:On my setup I did the total opposite. I went up high for my QXL and no issues with up or downshifts.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
I know chain catchers have been debated a few times before, but wondered if anyone had experiences with running any of the following over the SRAM one (00.7618.013.000):
1) Rotor Pro Issue Chain Catcher
https://velotechservices.co.uk/shop/vcl ... 00002&fo=1
2) Absolute Black Road Chain Catcher
https://absoluteblack.cc/road-chain-catcher-braze-on/
Running a Red eTap AXS with Rotor ALDHU on Rotor SRAM AXS compatible 48/35t Oval Rings
1) Rotor Pro Issue Chain Catcher
https://velotechservices.co.uk/shop/vcl ... 00002&fo=1
2) Absolute Black Road Chain Catcher
https://absoluteblack.cc/road-chain-catcher-braze-on/
Running a Red eTap AXS with Rotor ALDHU on Rotor SRAM AXS compatible 48/35t Oval Rings